Avital 6500-Dome Light and Door Pin connections

02-20-2002, 01:17 PM
Ive got my Avital installed and everything works but the dome light. I did the 2 wire trick when you remove the factory deck, but the dome light only comes on when the passenger side door is open. The problem is in the factory wiring somewhere as it does this with the factory radio too.

The driver's door pin does work actually. If I put the key in the cylinder and open the driver's door, the chime does sound. I checked the voltages on each door pin. The GREEN wire at the driver's pin gets about 10V and the GREEN/RED at the passenger pin gets 12.5V.

So the first problem is getting the driver's side in to activate the dome light. According to helms, the green wire splits off the green/red which goes to the passenger side, but I don't know where. And the door chime must be connected somewhere too though I can't even find a mention of it in helms :( I think I may have to run a new wire for the driver's side, but how do I keep the door chime and get the dome light to work with it too?

Second problem is hooking up the alarm to the dome light. I found a green/red in the upper left of the dash where I found the door lock triggers,etc and it shows 12V when the passenger door is closed and 0V when the door is open, so this seems like the right wire. so Avital WHITE connects to this wire and if I understand right, the Avital WHITE/BLACK connects to a GROUND. This does not work though. The alarm still can't tell when the door is open and does not turn on the dome when I disarm the alarm. I tried connecting the WHITE/BLACK to a 12V wire to change the polarity, but that doesn't work either. I think I have the right wire because when the GREEN/RED grounds, either using the door or the dome light switch, the dom light does come on.

Also, Ifound these notes regarding installing an Alarmtek on a 2001 Civic:

"Lets move on to the door wire, on this car you have 3 wires to hook into, this is very important to do this correctly, otherwise it wont work right. First find the green wire , this is for the drivers door, then find the lt. green/red this gets the passenger door, then finally grab the green/white, this gets the rear doors. Now that you have all 3 wires we must diode isolate them from each other but all connecting to the alarmís green wire. Take 3 1n4001 diodes, these you can get at any radio shack. Hook each diode to each of the door wires individually with the band of the diode facing the wire, now twist the other ends of all 3 diodes together, make sure the band of the diodes face all 3 wires. Next hook the alarmís green wire to the twisted end of the diodes and tape them all up good!"

I'm going to get some diodes and mess around with them, but I think my problems are a little more complicated than this.

02-20-2002, 01:38 PM
From the drivers pin switch, the wire goes to the ingegrated control unit, which is the fuse relay box behind left side of dash. The drivers door trigger then leaves the ICU and junctions with the lt. green red wire (junction point unknown, I don't have Honda's service manual, which would show me)

The first thing that bothers me is the 10v at the drivers pin. this should be high 11's- low 12's, so because the screw that holds that pin switch in place is the ground circuit for the door pin, are the threads rusted? Try pulling the drivers pin switch out, you will see a little concave around the hole for the screw that contacts the body. Remove the paint from the body around that concave only. Take fine grit sandpaper and clean the contact point for the pin switch and hose it down with WD-40.

At the ICU, the green wire goes into Connector 409 pin # 9 and exits the ICU same connector pin # 8 (wire color is green/red at this point) With the drivers door open (passenger door closed) do we have ground going into the ICU? What about out? What are the voltages?

02-21-2002, 08:02 AM
Unfortunately, I had to put the dash back together becasue I had to work yesterday. I'll try to take another look today or tomorrow and I'll post the results.

Could you advise me on how to wire the alarm to the door pin and dome light circuit so I could at least get it working with the passenger side door? The Avital WHITE/BLACK(door pin polarity selct) should goto a ground, correct? ....and the WHITE(Avital) to GREEN/RED(vehicle)???

02-21-2002, 08:08 AM
12pin connector
White/black pin 10 to ground
White pin 8 to domelight wire.

02-21-2002, 08:18 AM
Cool, looks like I choose the right wires then, but the alarm still does not sense when I open the passenger door nor does it turn on the dome light when I disarm the alarm like it should.

I think the way the dome light works is when the GREEN/RED is grounded, then the dome light circuit is grounded and the light comes on, but when I manually ground the GREEN/RED from the wire under the dash the light doesn't come on. This wire does show 12V when the passenger door is closed and the dome light off, and 0V when the door is open and the dome light ON. Do you have any insight on this? I don't know what else to do besides probing other points in the GREEN/RED wire....

02-21-2002, 08:33 AM
For that year and model Civic (HX) We are showing to use the green/black at the factory alarm plug at the back of the radio (green plug). This will detect the doors, and also provide dome supervision.

Give that a try and tell me what happens.

02-21-2002, 08:38 AM
OK, thanks. I'll try messing with it again later today and let ya know.

02-21-2002, 02:24 PM
Tireburner, I tried using the GREEN/BLACK from the green plug from the radio, but to the same result. I actually have the GREEN/BLACK and the GREE?RED connected together to complete the dome light circuit which is why it works with the passenger door.

When the door is closed, I show 12V here and when it is open, I show 0V and the dome light comes on......

Is it a possibility that the green plug for the keyless entry still needs to be connected to the factory deck to maake this work???? This is probably unlikely to be true.

One thing I dont't know is how the Avital knows when the door is open. Does it monitor the GREEN/RED for flat voltage or does it provide a ground to the dome light circuit?

A better understanding of how it works with the door pin and dome light circuits would help me understand this much more.

Can someone advise me on this or point me to a site that explains it in better detail?

02-21-2002, 02:44 PM
Using a multimeter. Red lead of the meter to 12v+, black lead to the white/black at the 6500.(right to the pin at the brain) Verify the meter reads 12v+ (if it does not, you have a bad ground on the wt/blk)

Now take the black lead of the meter to the white wire right at the brain of the 6500 (right to the pin at the brain) Doors closed meter should read 0v (+/- 1v) Open the passanger door, meter should read 12v+. If it does not, check connection to the door pin wire in vehicle.

Leave meter set up red lead to 12v+, black lead to the white wire at the 6500. Close all doors, and arm the 6500. Wait 10 seconds then disarm the 6500. The meter should show 12v+ when you disarm.

I have a very distinct feeling that the brain has a problem with the door/domelight circuit (not uncommon)

You do not need the factory head unit hooked up. Tying the green/red and green/black together completes the door trigger circuit.

02-21-2002, 03:11 PM
OK, I'm going to give that a try tomorrow. I've gotta go to work soon, but I want to ask first:::

The 6500 provides a ground through through the white wire on disarming right? So the polarity select shoud tells the alarm to either output 12V on the white wire or to provide a ground for a live circuit?

That said, I'll get back to this tomorrow and post the results. Thanks TB.

02-21-2002, 03:15 PM

The wht/blk tells the 6500 what kind of input it is looking for to trigger, and what output to send upon disarm to turn on the domelight.

02-23-2002, 02:31 PM
Tireburner, guess what. You were right. The white wire is dead. It won't provide a ground or 12V output.

I pulled out the alarm brain and cracked it open. Having done soldering work before, I didn't expect the probem to be so obvious, but there is a bridge from the the pin for the white wire to a capacitor that really got fried. I must've done it somehow when installing it. So off to radio shack to get a new iron and some solder. hopefully, the bridge is the only problem with it.

02-23-2002, 03:39 PM
OK, soldered the bridge and now the alarm provides dome light supervision. SUCCESS!

Wanted to ask you about the dome light/white wire.......Is this supposed to be fused bwtween the brain and the vehicle wire? Just wondering because I got the alarm through ebay and maybe it was missing an important fuse?

Now to just fix the driver's side door pin problem and case closed. I already think I got the fix for it too. I picked up some diodes and I'm going to try rewiring the pin in a few days time.

02-25-2002, 07:26 AM
No, there should not be a fuse on the white wire. If you had the wht/blk to 12v+ then I would recommend a fuse, but with it to ground --no worries!


Make sure you try cleaning the connection at the drivers pin switch before playing with the diodes.. they should be un-necessary.

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