91 Passat guage fuse blows constantly

hochy · 10-14-2004, 02:18 AM

I have a 91 Passat GL and the instruments just stopped working and it is fuse # 16 on the panel that pops after a few minutes. Any info on this as this kills my speedo, fuel and everything. Or can I bypass the fuse panel somehow to keep it working with an inline fuse?

I have no manual or schematic with this car either to trace wiring.

There must be a logical reason for this. Could it be due to a faulty coil sending too many volts? I just replaced the plug wires as they were shorting out and one was cracked.

HELP HELP HELP

zzpza · 10-14-2004, 09:50 AM

hi,

it's been a while since i sold my passat gt, but this site will have a wiring diag for you:

http://volkswagen.msk.ru/index.php?p=page09

also i would find out why it's blowing the fuse, as it's most likely a short circuit somewhere. it's unlikely (but not impossible) to be related to the coil.

hth.

hochy · 10-14-2004, 11:50 AM

I hope this may help the mechanics. I may trade this puppy off if not.

Mike

hochy · 10-15-2004, 01:58 AM

After the fuse for the gauges started popping, the next day the car just stalled in an intersection. It seems the system must not be charging as the battery lost juice and now the headlights, tail and dash lights started staying on wehn running which is likely why the battery died.

HELP HELP HELP - What is wrong with this car

zzpza · 10-15-2004, 09:21 AM

1st thing i'd do would be to remove the battery and charge it up so you can start the car again. once you've got the engine running remove the headlight switch and see if that makes your lights go out. the switch went on mine but when it did i couldn't turn the light on, not off. it it doesn't then there probably a wiring fault between the switch and the fuse box. have you done any work in the engine bay / under the dash recently? it's possible you've trapped a wire somewhere and are shorting it out on the car body.

as for charging, put a voltmeter across the terminals of the battery with the engine running it should be about 13.4v. if it's around that mark but keeps going up and down then the alternator is good, but the regulator has gone (small black electronic component bolted to the back of the alternator).

hth

hochy · 10-15-2004, 01:29 PM

The only thing done a few days ago was an engine wash. No other under dash or engine items were touched.

Thanks for the great info - great help, you rock.

zzpza · 10-15-2004, 02:11 PM

no problem. let me know how you get on.

hochy · 10-15-2004, 03:01 PM

I will for sure. I have never had a car do this.

hochy · 10-21-2004, 07:55 PM

Found the short after going over every wire. It was a wire to the glove box light.
In the process I managed to fix the cruise and washers.

It is working now and still a few minor problems..

1 is that there is a hum from the RR wheel when turning left hard and it hums at highway speeds. Maybe a bearing but not sure yet.

2 there is a rumble from the drive train in first and sometimes second gear and mostly under stress (uphill).

Mike

zzpza · 10-22-2004, 04:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hochy

Found the short after going over every wire. It was a wire to the glove box light.
In the process I managed to fix the cruise and washers.

It is working now and still a few minor problems..

congrats! well done.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hochy

1 is that there is a hum from the RR wheel when turning left hard and it hums at highway speeds. Maybe a bearing but not sure yet.

sounds like it might be.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hochy

2 there is a rumble from the drive train in first and sometimes second gear and mostly under stress (uphill).

Mike

that's when you're usually putting the most torque through it. it sounds like the inner cv joints. with the engine off, put it in 1st and jack the car up. get underneath and grab hold of one of the drive shafts with your hand. with your other hand grab the output from the diff. try and rotate them in opposite directions. if there's a lot of play or a clunking noise then the joint is most likely shot. check the driveshaft on both sides.

if they have gone, you can replace the joint (don't have to replace the driveshaft as a whole) and new ones are pretty cheap, but it's a PITA of a job to replace them. fairly easy, just long and boring.

hth

hochy · 10-22-2004, 12:53 PM

Thanks, I will give it a shot. You may have that one coorect on the CV as we just got snow and on the icy road it feels like it pulls from one wheel to the next just like each is trying to outrun the opposite side.

You have been very helpful on this and I thank you very much.

I have had an offer on this car to trade for a fully loaded 1989 Audi. It appears to be in very nive shape. No rust or damage anywhere and clean, but I have never owned an audi and not sure on there track records or how easy to repair or expensive.

zzpza · 10-22-2004, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hochy

Thanks, I will give it a shot. You may have that one coorect on the CV as we just got snow and on the icy road it feels like it pulls from one wheel to the next just like each is trying to outrun the opposite side.

try seeing if it makes the noise louder when you pull away with a few people in the car. if it does it's likely to be inner cv joints.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hochy

You have been very helpful on this and I thank you very much.

glad i could help.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hochy

I have had an offer on this car to trade for a fully loaded 1989 Audi. It appears to be in very nive shape. No rust or damage anywhere and clean, but I have never owned an audi and not sure on there track records or how easy to repair or expensive.

if it's an audi 80 or an audi 90 it will share a lot of the same components with your passat except for a 5 cylinder engine if it's >2.0L.

if it's a quattro (4wd) check that the diff locks engage and disengage ok and actually work (find some snow or mud).

hochy · 10-22-2004, 04:20 PM

It is not a quatro so one of the others. Likely fairly easy to get parts or repair I imagine.

Mike

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