so i hydrolocked my engine in my si. and now i want to put my intake back on but i dont want this happening again. i know i shouldnt go through puddles (lakes) with my car. i heard that i could get this thing that blocks the water or somthing i dont know.. shit. just help me. you are guys you know what iam talking about.
thanks britt
* thinking about brody*

finally, an automotive-related post

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/s-10101/p-5491/c-10101

Bi-pass 50$ AEM makes it

EDIT: Duh didnt see link above me :screwy:

* thinking about brody*
RETRACT & REPHRASE : Is love in the air? :icesangel

yeah i seen the like asshole.

why you being mean? my gosh..

who?

what?

ok ok..... where?

Who's on First.
What's on Second.
I don't know is on Third.

uhhh....:confused:

Geez man, hi-jack the thread, lol...

Okay, so you want something that will prevent water from entering the motor when you have a CAI, correct.

As was suggested, the AEM By-pass valve will help.The filter has to be fully submerged for it to work and do it's thing. It works due to the resulting pressue drop when a filter is fully submerged. This should help if for some reason you DO end up driving your car through big puddles.

Also, some people remove their inner fender liners, don't remove it, keep it in place, and covering the bottom part of the bumper where the filter is. This will help prevent water from the road from splashing up into the intake when the tires kick it up, etc.

These 2 things should help you to a certain extent. All I can say is the by-pass vavle (in case you are unable to aviod driving through a deep puddle and your filter is fully submerged as a result), keep the inner fender liner in place and avoid puddles like they're a bad plague.

Also, when you do have to go through a big ass puddle, try to coast through it. My dumbass friend bent two rods trying to get through this flooded part of a street by just nailing the gas and he had a factory intake.

Listen to eckoman. Hes got it right on the money :)

Short RAM, Bypass, or Front Mount Intake System.

thank you guys.. i hope you all dont hate me.. i feel unwanted.. :sorry: well thanks and i got my car back...

And its faster now!!!! :icon16:

your such a dick head.

LoL

fill the end of the intake with cement that should stop water getting in j/k
the bi-pass should do it.

but avoid the puddles as much as possible

Glad to hear you got your car back.

Just follow my advice in my eariler post, and you should be fine, and as GScivic7 suggested, if you do end up aving to go through a puddle, try and coast through it.

I have a "bypass valve" that was taken off a car - it's 2.5" in/out. You can have it for the price of shipping. Worthless to me. Send PM if you want it.

hey jackasssi,
I think there is something on your nose

^^haha

maybe he's hoping they can work out a "trade"...
ha ha ha

Actually I don't beleive in bypass valves & it's sitting here doing nothing. If anyone thinks it works, its yours.

I do think they work, but I have a short ram so I don't need it.

if i had one of the 2 pipe ebay CAI during the winter months when water/snow is everywhere could i only use 1 of the pipes and convert it to a short ram?

exactly why they are 2 pieces

awesome thanks

hey jackasssi,
I think there is something on your nose
maybe he's hoping they can work out a "trade"...
ha ha ha

Let's all quiet down and show some respect.

First we should ask why he doesn't like the by-pass valve.

So, why doesn't he want the by-pass valve? You have to basically drive through a puddle for them to work, becuase they work due to the resulting pressure drop. It has to be COMPLETELY SUMERGED!!! The opinion of "they don't work" and "I don't believe in them" can be attributed to the "HOW MANY OF US GO DRIVNING THROUGH 15" PUDDLES??" train of thought.

As I said above, the By-pass vavle works due to the resulting pressure drop. Many ppl don't believe in spending the money on them, since they have to be completly sumerged to work.

It's not going to hurt of have one, but to some people it's not worth the money, since the filter has to be completly submerged for it to work.

The By-pass valve does exactly what it's suposed to do, prevent water from entering the motor when the filter is sumerged.

However, this is also why some people claim it "doesn't work" and don't believe in using it. Becasue it works when the flter is submerged only. Why? As I said already, thats what it was designed to do, work due to the resulting pressure drop.

Now especially if you've hydrolocked your motor in the past, why not put one and and be safe. Chances are the hydrolocked motor was due to a big un-aviodable puddle, and that being the case, a by-pass vavle would work and do it's thing in that case. If you never need it, then your only out $50 or so, not a huge price for a little piece of mind (especially in wet rainy climates).

Thanks eckoman_pdx couldn't have answered it better myself.

Thanks eckoman_pdx couldn't have answered it better myself.

You'e very welcome. I can't stand ignorance like that on the boards. When people start poking fun at people and assuming incorrect things, it's always a good idea to correct them and point the truth out.

That's exactly the reason why you don't see me on much anymore. Plus people ask the same damn things over and over and over. SEARCH!

That's exactly the reason why you don't see me on much anymore. Plus people ask the same damn things over and over and over. SEARCH!

I know what you mean. A lot of new members come in here and seem to think it's more "cool" to bash people than to actually help. It's just sad. They don't know what they are saying, they just assume and start flaming.

People should be careful, they don't want to bite the hand that feeds them. If the day rolls around they need suspension help and you and SilverY2Kcivic are gone, they will find a lack of knowledgable people and answers all of a sudden.

britt, if you are intent on the cai, just don't drive in the rain, at least the "BIG" puddles. The bypass is a good safeguard, but in the offseason, if I was you, I'd change to the short ram, it won't hurt performance that much this time of year, and the piece of mind is worth it

Short ram... CAI intake... bypass valve... screw it all. Just do what I did. You'll have a CAI, Short ram, AND a bypass valve all in one!

http://purehonda.com/forum/attachment.php?s=&postid=38086

The bypass valve is bascially a set of flaps that open up when there is a large decrease in the presure in the intake arm. It makes it so that there is never enough suction in the intake arm to suck water up the intake arm. Its not rocket science... its actually a very simple design that works. Theres no arguing of whether it works or not. The bypass valve/flaps maintain the level of pressure so it will never drop to a level that has enough force to suck up water. Simple as that.

This post had been answered on page one, why are we all still writing the same thing over and over.

because when we read these posts alot of us start from the last page. I just love it (no, I dont) when I answer a question (other posts) and someone else answers their question using MY answer (basically reposting what I had just said/posted).... I guess for a higher post count? Or like if someone asks a question for example, "Is it possible to paint your steering wheel?" and like 13 people will answer "yes" or "yea you can". After 2 posts I think the question is a done deal. But hey! Lets all flood this thread! I'll contribute to it too!! Hey britt, you can avoid water from being sucked into your engine by buying something called a by-pass valve. It works when the air filter is fully submerged in water then the bypass valve senses a drop in pressure, therefor using an upper filter for air intake. derrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr... Anyone else wanna help her on what she can do to prevent water from getting in her engine? Hey, any of you can just repeat what I said for a higher count!