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TEMPERATURE 220 TO 230 Driving in town...


StEaLtHyUfO
09-21-2004, 12:28 AM
Is this temperature normal running stop and go traffic( 225 to 245 degrees) and 200 degrees on the highway? Could this be a thermostat replacement job or failing water pump? I've checked other posts. Thanks.

treeboy38
09-22-2004, 01:18 PM
Is this temperature normal running stop and go traffic( 220 to 230 degrees) and 200 degrees on the highway?
That would be a perfectly normal temperature for the Aurora. I'm assumin that you have a classic.

kidd94
09-22-2004, 02:06 PM
These engines are very hot running engines... Most people will tell you that the engine is running a safe temperature even just below the first redline...

StEaLtHyUfO
09-22-2004, 02:42 PM
These engines are very hot running engines... Most people will tell you that the engine is running a safe temperature even just below the first redline...

Thanks for your feedback. I have a 97 classic with 69,000 miles and mainly drive it stop and go. The temperature changes but stays usually around 225 to 235 most in stop and go traffic. A couple of mechanics say it runs too hot but do not know that much about the car till they worked on mine. It has never overheated. Also the cam sensor that was replaced by my mechanic did not stop the shutt off problem while the car is idling at red lights. It has improved alot(does not shut off everyday like before but my next step are the crankcase sensors and thermostat change. It shuts off twice a week compared to everyday before.... :eek7:

madcatter
09-23-2004, 02:35 PM
I was just gonna post the same question. I don't get to drive mine very often ('95, 150K), the woman always has it. She called the other day saying temp was running just below redline and I don't remember it ever running that hot. She checked, coolant level fine. I drove it and it did the same. Steady climb up to about 230 deg. in 80 deg. sun or 60 deg. night. Where is the themostat and what's it envolve. May do it when I change oil next time just to be sure. Just got the 17's and new rubber on it, doesn't need to sit with a blown motor.
-N8

dmorlow
09-25-2004, 11:06 AM
Mine seems to stay a notch or two above the 200 line when I am in slow traffic. As soon as I start speeding up and going around 55 constantly, then it goes right back down to the 200 mark. I figure it's normal as long as it never overheats (which it hasn't ever).

The Rebel
09-25-2004, 10:23 PM
Thanks for your feedback. I have a 97 classic with 69,000 miles and mainly drive it stop and go. The temperature changes but stays usually around 225 to 235 most in stop and go traffic. A couple of mechanics say it runs too hot but do not know that much about the car till they worked on mine. It has never overheated. Also the cam sensor that was replaced by my mechanic did not stop the shutt off problem while the car is idling at red lights. It has improved alot(does not shut off everyday like before but my next step are the crankcase sensors and thermostat change. It shuts off twice a week compared to everyday before.... :eek7:

:2cents:Have your radiator checked. The shop will do a pressure check. Alot of times the radiator is the culprit. But as we all know:nono:Never ever let the car get overheated!

dsatt12
09-26-2004, 05:18 AM
Also the cam sensor that was replaced by my mechanic did not stop the shutt off problem while the car is idling at red lights. It has improved alot(does not shut off everyday like before but my next step are the crankcase sensors and thermostat change. It shuts off twice a week compared to everyday before.... :eek7:

While 'it shuts off' isn't all that specific, that sounds like something where I'd look into carbon fouling something up in the intake area. An egr valve sticking open made mine a lot of the time. I've also heard the IAC motor making it idle screwy if at all. Just take off the rubber air intake hoses and peek behind the intake valve. If there is a lot of carbon in there, it's a good indication that something in there could be acting up.

StEaLtHyUfO
09-26-2004, 07:26 PM
[QUOTE=dsatt12]While 'it shuts off' isn't all that specific, that sounds like something where I'd look into carbon fouling something up in the intake area. An egr valve sticking open made mine a lot of the time. I've also heard the IAC motor making it idle screwy if at all. Just take off the rubber air intake hoses and peek behind the intake valve.

:werd: Thanks Dsatt12...The shut off problem is like this. When I pull up to a red light or pause the car in stop and go traffic while the foot is on the brake, it will shut off with the air, radio and everything else that has power still keeps running. I have to put the car in park, restart the car and then put her in drive. Then maybe one other time a day it will shut off again. I have had the fuel pressure regulator checked out, had a three step fuel system cleaning, the fuel rail replaced, fuel filter just recently changed, the crankcase sensors checked out(recommended by another aurora driver on this board) The crankcase sensors were fine but my mechanic said that the cam sensor was bad. He also said he noticed that one crankcase sensor was changed before. He still said they were fine. The cam sensor was replaced. All fine for 6 days then on the 7th, shut off again. I will check the egr next I guess if anybody has another idea it will be most helpful. This board is great and has saved all of us money on repairs and parts!!! :wink:

StEaLtHyUfO
09-26-2004, 07:28 PM
All in all, the temperature keeps rising daily. Today it was at 242 stop and go traffic. Will check the radiator next per the rebel post. The pressure test.

dmorlow
09-26-2004, 08:00 PM
I would not worry about it. As long as it never hits red, you are fine. Mine stays at about 240 in slow traffic also. I think all the auroras with the 4.0 do. The auroras are nutorious for running hot.

dsatt12
09-27-2004, 01:44 AM
If you don't find any carbon gunked up on the shaft of the egr valve or anything, it's probably OK. They're too damn expensive to go changing out without some reason to think it needs it. It'll run you $150-$200 for an aftermarket one, much less an OEM version.

Also, it can likely be cleaned if it is sticking. Just search around here for how to do so.

The Rebel
09-28-2004, 10:59 AM
The overheating part could be /Radiator related
The stalling part could be /Throttle body have it cleaned out. One more thing....IAC switch is important when it comes to running the Airconditioner. if you have your AC on and the car dies out, try checking this part out first.:grinno:

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