Alright, I'm just about to get a new clutch and don't want to make a wrong decision so I'm consulting you guys...

Heres the siutation: my car is basically stock and my clutch is going bad. I'm split between getting an Act heavy duty 6-puck clutch or an Act Heavy Duty Street/strip clutch. Can anybody tell me the pros and cons between the two?

Some factors may include: this is for everyday use, track as well as street. I don't need a clutch that can hold 500lbs of torque.

Any help is appreciated.

Alright, I'm just about to get a new clutch and don't want to make a wrong decision so I'm consulting you guys...

Heres the siutation: my car is basically stock and my clutch is going bad. I'm split between getting an Act heavy duty 6-puck clutch or an Act Heavy Duty Street/strip clutch. Can anybody tell me the pros and cons between the two?

Some factors may include: this is for everyday use, track as well as street. I don't need a clutch that can hold 500lbs of torque.

Any help is appreciated.

Which ever one you get, make sure it comes with a high quality clutch muffler.

lol.

on the serious side, can anybody give me a run down between the differences of 6 puck, 4 puck, and street/strip?

if you're daily driving and have a stock motor, there's absolutely no reason to get a stage 3 or better --- it will just wear out your leg.

i know a couple guys running a stage 1 on their sr20. just get a regular stage 1 or stage 2 act. anything beyond that you won't be liking it much unless you have a lot of power to warrant that kind of clutch.

I may be confused but S/S have the "Heavy Duty" which holds around 267lb of torque. then the "Xtreme" that holds 400lbs i think. They're both S/S clutches which are ideal for street use. I found a site that sold clutches in specific catorgories:

Heavy Duty 6-Puck
Heavy Duty 4-Puck
Heavy Duty S/S (Street/Strip)

then Xtreme 6-Puck, Xtreme 4-puck, Xtreme S/S.

They didn't run much detail about the product so I was hoping you to get more info here. It just said 6-puck were racing clutches and weren't ideal for street use.

id get the lightest clutch they have (prolly the ss). it'll be better than stock yet wont be that tough to engage.

Unless your going to be doing tons of Clutch Kicks or Drag Launches the a stock Replacement would probably best. less than 175ftlbs on a street car is no where near enough to warrant a Puck so if your set on an ACT at least get a full face

if I were you, seeming as I work in a transmission shop....


I would get the stock clutch. or a LUK GOLD clutch. We use LUK brand pretty much OEM replacement but the GOLD is slightly better. You have no REAL power adders, your basically running stock power....stock power is anywhere from stock to +25hp.....so you don't need a heavy duty clutch you aren't using that much power

learn to drive a clutch and it will last a long time

I upgraded to a centerforce dual friction clutch about 4 months ago now. I had to get a new one because the stock clutch doesn't hold up to well while spraying. I sprayed on the centerforce for about 2 months before I took the nitrous out and it held up great the whole time, no slipping at all. But yeah, with your mods I'd just go with a stock replacement unless if you have plans for higher HP numbers soon.

when where you using the spray? lol


what kind of shot were you spraying into the ole ka...

Just the engine is stock for now but I need an new clutch because i'm going to be taking it drifting. I'm going to have suspension in and then differential by then but yes, I will be doing alot of clutch kicks.

I'm leaving my engine stock because I plan on buying an SR when i have the money which will be a while because i have other priorities.

when where you using the spray? lol
what kind of shot were you spraying into the ole ka...

haha I put a NX setup on the car back in January and had it on until like the end of April after I got my ticket... I was just spraying a 50 shot into the motor, but it dyno'd way higher then that. Base motor and the JIC exhaust, it dyno'd at 149 whp and 152 lb-ft. After spraying the 50 shot, it dyno'd at 205 whp and 251 lb-ft. That was a 56 whp gain and a 99 lb-ft gain.

Nitrous = torque montser.

All this time I thought that you had a KA-T. What was it running with the juice?

All this time I thought that you had a KA-T. What was it running with the juice?

Heh, that's kind of a long story. Long story short though, I had built a KA-T to put in the car, all I needed was some sort of fuel management and I was looking for a good price on a TEC3. Before I ever got around to buying the TEC3 though, my sister got into a lot of trouble, needed money, parents wouldn't help, so I sold the only thing I really could to get the money she needed. I'll build another and actually get it into the car one of these days...

But anyways, I only ran it one night at the track with the juice. Still had full interior, just removed the spare and I was running on some decent tires with the air pressure dropped to 23 psi. That night though I ran a best of 14.1 at 98.6 mph. I was pretty pleased with the time since nitrous was pretty much the only power adder I had.

That really sucks. I'm building one right now(waiting on the turbo, T04B). 14.1, damn. I always kinda thought third gear could use a 25 or 50 shot. If you do get around to it, post up some pics and times. If you move to pensacola, you should drive down to gainsville raceway. There are a few nissan guys there.

If you move to pensacola, you should drive down to gainsville raceway. There are a few nissan guys there.

Yeah I'm sure I'll be there a couple times. Gainsville is 1/4 right? The only track near Pensacola is a 1/8 I think... I'll still go there, but it's just not the same. I'm arriving in Pensacola on the 20th of August.

Yea its a 1/4. Wednesdays are test and tune. Saturdays are bracket racing. The first Friday of every month is street legal heads up.

yea there is a 1/8 about 30 min from p cola ive never been though. its closer for us to goto birmingham alabama the it would be to goto gainesville