fuzzypuppy

Ok ' yesterday i got down to checking out the wife's car she has several complaints. its a 96 1.8 dx
1,the car vibrates pretty bad first startup in the morning, especialy when she puts in reverse to back out of the drivway.
2. front end makes a grinding noise ,
3, runs rougher than it used to, at idl.
4, the brakes pluse and make noise during stops,
Ok I drove it and found some things to be true.
3 mos. ago I replaced the brake pads with the new high dollar from kragen ceramic low dust pads, had the rotors turned at kragen as well.
there is definatly a pulse like warped rotors, I pulled the wheels to inspect the rotors "by the way the car does not have abs" anyways the rotors look fine, 'I had a car that had warped rotors before and you could see the sign's on the rotors', so I got to looking and thinking had the wife start the car put in R as well as park with her foot on the brake and found the front and rear motor mounts really sloppy and figured that could be the reason for the rattling first thing in the morn, when in reverse, 'the motormoves enough to allow somthing on the engine to vibrate against somthing else in the engine compt'. since once you put it in drive it does not rattle anymore.
Front mount was easy, but are they kidding me I have had to basicly almost pull the motor out of the stupid thing to get the rear mount out.
and since a hoist is not one of my regular tools to have around ive had to use a couple of jacks for this. also had to unbolt and swivel up out of the way the rack since it sits right on top of the mount and i could not get the engine high enough with the jacks for the clearance.
the haynes book has nothing on the mounts themselves only referance is in the engine removal section.
this has got to be a sick joke, or me being too blind to see another procedure, also the new mount i bought from autozone has the studs welded in, the stock units were set up so you could knock them up and out to be able to get them out easier, am i just stupid or is this really what it takes to replace the rear mount? and a word to the wise to others reading this post, it IS better to buy dealer parts at times, anyways i'am not finished with the job yet will finish today, "I HOPE". as well i hope this will stop at least a couple of the problems, as for the grinding sound, its almost like the wheel bearings, but i repacked them when i did the brakes, my thought is that possably due to the motor mounts being bad it throws the drive train off causing the bearing like noise and as well the lose mounts causing the peddle to feel funny due to the engine movement. if the rotors are warped i guess kragen warped them, since they were fine before i had them resurfaced.
i have not gotten to the rough idle yet, i changed the plugs 3.000 ago, but the cap rotor and wires are original, and have 60.000 on them as well as possably a new air filter it has about 3.000 on it as well.
if any of you pro toyota mechanics could throw your 2 cents in it would be greatly appreciated, I have been working on cars for more than 20 yrs some of them toys, but this toy is unreal. i cant imagin what the dealer would charge to do the rear mount since it seems like the motor has to almost be pulled all the way out.
thanks for ANY help you all can give on my toy trouble's.