could a bad o2 sensor possibly give an erratic idle in the start? my bros GA engine gives bad idles when starting from time to time. havent checked the MAF, i will, but i read that from '94 and up, infiniti/nissan changed the harnesses to get rid of that problem. its a 97 200sx if you havent known yet, but im assuming Nissan got rid of that problem as well on all '94 up cars.

bump

possibly...and a rotten egg smell?

nope, havent got that smell. seems like im getting less mileage though. check engine light has been on for months, but just the past few months ive been experiencing worse mileage. i doubt its my o2 sensor though. one of my spark plug wells had water or coolant in it a while ago and corroded the spark plug, so i replaced all the plugs but havent changed the plug wire yet. i think one of my plugs arent firing so im going to check that. im just going to scan my ecu for trouble codes when i get the chance at school.

yah sounds like a plug or something.

I have been driving my G20t with the check light on for 5 days now and really scared what the heck is going to happen??? I'm freakin' scared to go to the dealer because I don't want to get rip off. If the problem is not that big, I could probably do it. Could anyone tell me what other way to find out why the check light came on? Maybe what to check, o2 sensor, short, or just stupid dummy light try to give me a heart attack.

Thanks for the effort ;)

Originally posted by ronnie_g
I have been driving my G20t with the check light on for 5 days now and really scared what the heck is going to happen??? I'm freakin' scared to go to the dealer because I don't want to get rip off. If the problem is not that big, I could probably do it. Could anyone tell me what other way to find out why the check light came on? Maybe what to check, o2 sensor, short, or just stupid dummy light try to give me a heart attack.

Thanks for the effort ;)

Ditto - came on on monday - 1994 G20. I'm having the dealer check on Sat, I'll let you know what's wrong with mine. Have you had any symptoms??

No symptoms yet...........??? Maybe it was stressed out for driving it
4 1/2 hrs. straight none stop with speed of bet. 70-80 & 90-100, sometimes. The light still on, but I'm trying to take it easy. Yeah! PLease!!! Let me know what the stealers says. Maybe you could save me some money. I'll probably able to check and possibly fix what causes the light to come, if I only know what to look at and check.

Thanks so much & I appreciate your effort and help!!! So to the rest of good samaritans here ;)

ronnie g.

DO a little searching around on this forum for ECU check engine light fault codes. I don't know if the search engine is working properly yet but methods for extracting fault codes and resetting the ECU have been posted here before.

Thanks! I was at B&N last night and looking for anything about engine codes and I found Chilton's Engine Code Manual in general. I also found the codes there and how to analyze it, self diagnostic test, the procedures, you know from Mode 1 to Mode 2, etc. If it's not too cold today here in Philly..., I will give it a try;) I'm telling you, the next house that I get, I'm going to have my own garage w/ lifts in it. Do you hapen to know how much are those consult thing???

Thanks again :)

Originally posted by ronnie_g
Thanks! I was at B&N last night and looking for anything about engine codes and I found Chilton's Engine Code Manual in general. I also found the codes there and how to analyze it, self diagnostic test, the procedures, you know from Mode 1 to Mode 2, etc. If it's not too cold today here in Philly..., I will give it a try;) I'm telling you, the next house that I get, I'm going to have my own garage w/ lifts in it. Do you hapen to know how much are those consult thing???

Thanks again :) You won't need the consult to extract the fault codes and reset the ECU. Your Nth American ECUs are done differently to ours but yours go something like this:
http://www.se-r.net/engine/ecu_codes.html
There are others on this forum who have experience doing this so give them a chance to confirm the procedure ;)

Originally posted by ronnie_g
it's not too cold today here in Philly...,
Thanks again :)

I am from Philly originally. I miss my TASTYCAKES, soft pretzels, and REAL PHILLY CHEESE STEAKS ....

Originally posted by kenchan
possibly...and a rotten egg smell?

Im getting the egg smell. I just thought it was a coincidence that I would drive next to some stinker whos car was a sack of sh!t but know I know I stink lol
I thought it was the sulfur from the battery cuz my battery died this summer and the smell went away for a bit but now its back with a vengace


HELP ME IM STINKY

Originally posted by ronnie_g
No symptoms yet...........??? Maybe it was stressed out for driving it
4 1/2 hrs. straight none stop with speed of bet. 70-80 & 90-100, sometimes. The light still on, but I'm trying to take it easy. Yeah! PLease!!! Let me know what the stealers says. Maybe you could save me some money. I'll probably able to check and possibly fix what causes the light to come, if I only know what to look at and check.

Thanks so much & I appreciate your effort and help!!! So to the rest of good samaritans here ;)

ronnie g.

Sorrie, ronnie. It turned out to be a minor fault resulting from when I bought the car and they had to put in a new fuel injector and forgot to reset the computer. Don't think that'll help you.

Thanks for letting me know. I appreciate it ;) Anyway, on Sunday, I had a chance to check the ECU code and found out code 32 w/c was EGR stuff. I was thinking of checking it with a pump but it cost $35.00. Mind as well putting that money into a new EGR valve. I have 150k already!!! I asked NAPA auto parts, $136.00. I asked the man in the counter if it will do any harm if I drive the way it is now, he said no but I will just get poor performance. But, I don't feel any drastic changes in performance? Today, I changed the fuel cap and PCV valve and it seems to drive smoother. Maybe it's on my head. I might change the EGR valve tomorrow if the weather is better than today. Freakin freezing here today in Philly! I don't know if the light will go off??? Well, if after changing the EGR valve and the light still on..., now what??? I have to travel to Rhode Island this week-end and spend my Spring-Break with my family.

HAPPY SPRING-BREAK TO ALL OF YOU!!! :right:

Originally posted by ronnie_g
Thanks for letting me know. I appreciate it ;) Anyway, on Sunday, I had a chance to check the ECU code and found out code 32 w/c was EGR stuff. I was thinking of checking it with a pump but it cost $35.00. Mind as well putting that money into a new EGR valve. I have 150k already!!! I asked NAPA auto parts, $136.00. I asked the man in the counter if it will do any harm if I drive the way it is now, he said no but I will just get poor performance. But, I don't feel any drastic changes in performance? Today, I changed the fuel cap and PCV valve and it seems to drive smoother. Maybe it's on my head. I might change the EGR valve tomorrow if the weather is better than today. Freakin freezing here today in Philly! I don't know if the light will go off??? Well, if after changing the EGR valve and the light still on..., now what??? I have to travel to Rhode Island this week-end and spend my Spring-Break with my family.

HAPPY SPRING-BREAK TO ALL OF YOU!!! :right:

you have to reset the ecu to turn the MIL off. :D if im correct on the P10s, turn the ecu screw all the way clockwise, wait a couple seconds, then turn all the way counter-clockwise. then its reset.

Originally posted by ronnie_g

HAPPY SPRING-BREAK TO ALL OF YOU!!! :right:

Oh man.....don't remind me. I HATE spring break because since I'm in the warmest part of Utah all the damn high-schoolers from the WHOLE STATE come and cruise up and down the whole town, but mostly the street I work on. C'mon people, what is so FUN about screaming out a car window and then puking? Don't get me wrong, I don't hate high-schoolers as a whole and I do know that a bunch of you are high-schoolers, it's just that when you take a town with population of 100,000 and throw in a bunch of obnoxious brats (about 20,000 of them) and NONE of them know how to drive....It's a living HELL I tell you.

Originally posted by ronnie_g
Thanks for letting me know. I appreciate it ;) Anyway, on Sunday, I had a chance to check the ECU code and found out code 32 w/c was EGR stuff. I was thinking of checking it with a pump but it cost $35.00. Mind as well putting that money into a new EGR valve. I have 150k already!!! I asked NAPA auto parts, $136.00. I asked the man in the counter if it will do any harm if I drive the way it is now, he said no but I will just get poor performance. But, I don't feel any drastic changes in performance? Today, I changed the fuel cap and PCV valve and it seems to drive smoother. Maybe it's on my head. I might change the EGR valve tomorrow if the weather is better than today. Freakin freezing here today in Philly! I don't know if the light will go off??? Well, if after changing the EGR valve and the light still on..., now what??? I have to travel to Rhode Island this week-end and spend my Spring-Break with my family.

HAPPY SPRING-BREAK TO ALL OF YOU!!! :right: Before you go splashing out on a new EGR valve there are some other things you should check first.

If you go here: http://www.se-r.net/engine/troubleshooting_guide/tuneup.html and read up you'll find lots if info about the EGR system and links to repair procedures. It is possible that you just have some blocked tubes or dirty valves etc. that need cleaning out, and don't need a new valve at all.

Don't be so sure that you won't need to replace the EGR, the BPT valve, all of the connecting hoses and then finally the solenoid valve. All of these parts I recently replaced attempting to resolved the mysterious check engine light. Before I replaced these parts I went to a NISSAN dealer to diagnose the problem, The response was "It's something related to the EGR system"?. The scary part was that they suggest that I leave my car and they could not estimate a cost. I paid $60.00 to hear this.

:flash:

Originally posted by paradyme
Don't be so sure that you won't need to replace the EGR, the BPT valve, all of the connecting hoses and then finally the solenoid valve. All of these parts I recently replaced attempting to resolved the mysterious check engine light. Before I replaced these parts I went to a NISSAN dealer to diagnose the problem, The response was "It's something related to the EGR system"?. The scary part was that they suggest that I leave my car and they could not estimate a cost. I paid $60.00 to hear this.

:flash: And did it solve your Engine check light?? It's interesting to see how a component has failed - even if it ends up having to be replaced.