i just ordered a 3gauge pod and air/fuel and oil pressure gauge i need 1 more gauge what should i get? whats the most important one to have w/ nitrous? water temp? exhaust temp? oil temp? trans. temp? any suggestions? oh and i already have a bottle pressure gauge.

i myself have oil pres A/F and water temp id say that or volts some people like. Trans temp you really wont need and you'll need to know the normal trans opt temp *do you? probbly no not to be mean but if you can't use it don't*

Well for one, the autometer air/fuel gauge is next to useless, but since you already have it... The oil pressure is a good choice. For last one, I would use the EGT if you plan on spraying the motor. It is a great tuning tool on and off a dyno.

its pretty much a matter of opinion because you really dont need any other gauge as of yet..figure out what kind of mods you want to add in teh future and pic a gauge that would suit that best !

why do you say the Autometer A/F is useless maxspeed, id like some reasoning ?

why do you say the Autometer A/F is useless maxspeed, id like some reasoning ?

The autometer plugs into your stock O2 meter, which basically only tells you rich lean or stoich, not how rich or how lean. It response slow, and isn't very accurate. I belive the autometer is 0-1v response range, where a typical wideband is 0-5V.

if u have an electronic oil pressure guage can u use the stock oil pressure sending unit and tap into the wire or do u have to use teh sending unit that came with teh guage

The autometer plugs into your stock O2 meter, which basically only tells you rich lean or stoich, not how rich or how lean. It response slow, and isn't very accurate. I belive the autometer is 0-1v response range, where a typical wideband is 0-5V.
Gotta give it to the man, he knows his shit. It is inaccurate and unresponsive. You would be a fool to trust it in any forced induction setup. Wideband is the way to go. That narrow-band autometer crap is really just for looks. It is said that if you were in boost and suddenly the autometer when dead-ass lean, it would already be way too late to save the motor.

thanx alot guys! i jsut barely bought the autometer air/fuel gauge. i always find out i dont need something or its the wrong thing after i buy it. so what is the most accurate air/fuel gauge? and i am spraying a 75shot so should i get the etg gauge? or what about the oil temp gauge is that useful at all?

hmm now can i run wide band o2 and A/F gauge i'm not too sure on widebands at all i'm not running anything too crazy atm or any plans of boost or n20.
I know for now its a pruty lil light show as of now but if i can make it into somthing more useful i'd like to.

thanx alot guys! i jsut barely bought the autometer air/fuel gauge. i always find out i dont need something or its the wrong thing after i buy it. so what is the most accurate air/fuel gauge? and i am spraying a 75shot so should i get the etg gauge? or what about the oil temp gauge is that useful at all?
bUmp

The oil temp gauge is not really that useful on street apps. If it were my car, I would go with the EGT, but thats just me. AEM makes a good wideband kit. Do a search on google or something, alot of companies sell these. They are a bit more pricey than the narrow-band, but they are worth it. Plus go actually get a REAL A/F ratio reading instead of a couple led lights.

Egt ??

Exhaust gas temp.

So get wideband and it'll help?
thanks lot maxspeed!

The oil temp gauge is not really that useful on street apps. If it were my car, I would go with the EGT, but thats just me. AEM makes a good wideband kit. Do a search on google or something, alot of companies sell these. They are a bit more pricey than the narrow-band, but they are worth it. Plus go actually get a REAL A/F ratio reading instead of a couple led lights.
do you no where i can buy a real a/f gauge?

do you no where i can buy a real a/f gauge?

go on google and type in "wideband o2"

I just did and came up with a whole bunch. Some kits include the o2 sensor and some don't, make sure you look for that before ordering.

2 things..
I'd rather have a bright LED light, easy to read, wideband A/F ratio meter than one that has a needle and points to whatever A/F ratio you're at... Whenever the readings actually mean anything, your foot is on the floor and the last thing you should be doing is looking at your dash! But if you have a bright red light that tells you when you're lean, you will be more likely to notice than if a needle is 1/2" out of place. Reaction time is everything with a lean condition!
http://www.dawesdevices.com/airfuelmeter.html
Its not a wideband, but that is my idea of a good display method.

Duplox, that meter thing still doesn't tell you the real a/f ratio. If you want an accurate wideband, get the AEM UEGO. It's supposed to be accurate within .1, which is accurate enough. It's the difference between 12.5:1 and 12.6:1 which isn't enough to worry over. If you just want good accurate gauges, go with Greddy or Apexi. The greddy warning gauges which is what I have are really nice. They have a warning light which can be set to whatever you want and if you go past that point, a nice bright red led will pop up. They also have a memory function so like on my boost gauge, I can see what my highest point is. There a/f gauge works really well, but isn't a true wideband. It is very accurate though which I've proven on the dyno.

1st off, I know its not wideband. I'd rather have that **display** than a little LCD display that gives me a #. For precise tuning, go to a dyno and have them get it perfect. All you should really need an A/F ratio meter in your car for is to let you know if something goes wrong with your fuel system giving you a lean condition under WOT. If someone made a 3 light wideband sensor, with the middle light illuminated between an a/f ratio of 12.45-12.55:1, and one lit anywhere below that and the last, anywhere above that, that would be perfect. Also, I'd include a WOT throttle switch, so it only turns it on during WOT, so its not blinking away while you're just driving. The ammount of HP you'll gain from going from a 12.45:1 to 12.5:1 ratio is next to nothing. As long as the middle light is on at WOT, you're in tune. But thats just me. Some people might like see numbers... I prefer a quicker way of reading, considering you also have to be paying attention to water temp, RPMs, and oil pressure!
Your A/F meter sounds very good. If I wasnt a cheap bastard, I'd probably get something similar. But I am!

No, that wouldn't be perfect because there isn't a car on earth that is going to be able to hold an A/F ratio within 1 tenth of a point when you're accelerating hard, it just isn't possible. The LCD displays work great, especially the FJO ones.

alright, then from 12.35-12.65. Better? I was just stating my idea, I wasn't giving exact numbers. You prefer some LCD display, I prefer lights I can actually see. Maybe you need to run more boost if you have time to look at your dash while floorin it.

alright, then from 12.35-12.65. Better? I was just stating my idea, I wasn't giving exact numbers. You prefer some LCD display, I prefer lights I can actually see. Maybe you need to run more boost if you have time to look at your dash while floorin it.


So how much boost are you running, cause I can hit 1.3 bar and still watch my gauges. I guess better location would help ya a bit.

alright, then from 12.35-12.65. Better? I was just stating my idea, I wasn't giving exact numbers. You prefer some LCD display, I prefer lights I can actually see. Maybe you need to run more boost if you have time to look at your dash while floorin it.

Then apparently you have never seen sub 10 second drag cars with a display mounted on the dash. If you can't drive while watching the gauges then you are either a bit slow upstairs, or you watch too many movies.

I'm sure none of those drivers even look at that guage when they're doin a sub-10 second run. I sure as hell wouldnt be when I'm going from 0-140mph in less than 10 seconds. My eyes would be either on the strip or on the tach. When you're doin over 100mph with concrete barriers 15 feet from either side of you, I would be more focused on staying alive than monitoring my A/F ratio. YOU might like LCD displays. I do not. I never said you're wrong for liking them.
1.3 bar is nice; How many cubic inches/liters are you running? I have 355ci under my hood, or in liters for you metric guys, thats a bit over 5.8L. Add on that 10lbs boost, I'm sure I have more than twice the power you do. Never taken my car to the strip(nearest decent dragstrip is 1 1/2hrs away), but it should be good for some 10 second runs.
P.S.... This summer I'm building a 393cubic inch(6.4L) smallblock Ford motor, twin turbo'd blow thru carbureated, and spinning it to 7500rpm. 110 octane race gas, 22psi, air-cold water intercooling, and alcohol injection. A conservative estimate is 1000hp.

blah blah blah

This thread was about gauges, not some useless mindless opinions. This dude does not drive a racecar. Also if you had some sense you would not hook up a $50 narrow-band pos air/fuel gauge to a race-motor. That is just plain retarded. Any car needs a decent wideband, not some little flashy lights. On that note, I think I need to go look for some parts for the racecar that I am working on (did I mention it is going to be a 5000whp 1.6L honda :rolleyes: )

99.95% of the people on this board do not drive race cars.
Also, how long after you go lean do you have before your motor blows? 1, maybe 2 seconds? Do you check your A/F guage every second as you make a run down the strip? Not saying that its not possible, but its probably not the best idea.
"Its not a wideband, but that is my idea of a good display method."
I never said this is what'd I'm going to buy. I just like the idea of how its displayed. I never said I drive a race car. 10psi is not much. When its finished, it will be my daily driver. The engine is dyno tuned with a wide band a/f meter. I have this wideband a/f meter on order, and I'm going to make a circuit board with help from my uncle(who is an electrical engineer) to give me the 3LED display. When I build the 393, yes then it will be a race car.
He asked what guage he should get, you all voiced your opinion, I voiced mine. I did not want to get in an arguement. I do not think I provoked an arguement. Someone asked what I was running, I told them. Maybe I'm more concerned with where my car is going than anyone else, but thats just me. I never ordered him to install whatever guages, I told him what I personally like.

You don't have to believe me if you want, in a few months I should have some pictures and dyno slips.