sandeeps24

Hi,

My 1995 4 cyl camry does not go beyond 2000 rpm and the rpm suddenly drops to 1500 rpm once it touches 2000. Its same while driving or in neutral.

The dealer has conducted every test and checked with the company too but no solutions. I am really regretting putting my hard earned money in buying a camry.

Can someone help with suggesions?

Thanks

yotatechie04

I've heard of similiar problems being caused by vacuum leaks. You should either check, or have all of the underhood vacuum hoses checked.

__________________
1994 Pontiac Grand Am GT - 3100 V6
1992 Chevrolet Lumina Euro - 3100 V6
1997 Ford Escort - 2.0 I4

"She only squeals when she's wet..."

sandeeps24

well .... tested all the vaccum hoses and the valves.

There seems to be no problem with any parts ???

yotatechie04

Hmm...well then, I guess I can say this one's got me stumped for right now...all I can say is that it's more than likely some little thing you never thought to check.

__________________
1994 Pontiac Grand Am GT - 3100 V6
1992 Chevrolet Lumina Euro - 3100 V6
1997 Ford Escort - 2.0 I4

"She only squeals when she's wet..."

Brian R.

Check the intake manifold vacuum at idle and see if there is adequate vacuum. Check to see if the vacuum decreases off idle smoothly up to and past 2000 rpm.

Scope the ignition from idle to 2500 rpm and see if there is a glitch, particularly in ignition timing around 2000 rpm.

sandeeps24

Thanks Brian.

My dealer wants to know what you are trying to check?

Brian R.

I don't have a particular component in mind to test, if that is what they are asking. These are both general tests that don't require any engine dissassembly and may be done very quickly.

No harm, no foul.

I expect that you have an ignition problem (possibly caused by a sensor/computer glitch or a heat-sensitive part in the ignition that gets hotter with increasing rpm). What component is holding you back is unclear. Looking at ignition performance will eliminate the most likely problem as the cause of your rpm limit. I added the vacuum check since it is easily done and yotatechie04 mentioned it as a possible cause that he has heard of.

Just checking the hoses/valves is not an adequate check for a vacuum problem, only a superficial one. Measure the vacuum. Maybe there is a rpm-responsive vacuum leak in a gasket or valve that looks good at idle or to the naked eye when the engine is off. There is certainly going be some strange stuff happening at 2000 rpm, but the real challenge for the troubleshooter is to distinguish between an effect that results from the problem and one that is causing the problem.

Manifold vacuum by itself is not a direct measure of engine function, but it is an overall indicator of alot of related systems. Even if there is an obvious vacuum glitch, figuring out what is causing it may be tough unless there is also an ignition or fuel glitch at the same rpm.

The dealer should know what the ignition and vacuum profiles are supposed to look like. I hope that whatever is causing your problem is happening just before the rpm drop occurs (say at 1900-2000 rpm) and you can see it with the right diagnostic equipment.

Once you find a abnormally functioning system (ignition glitch, etc), then you can trace down the problem until you fix it. At this time, you don't even know what system is causing the problem. It doesn't sound fuel-related, but it could be. I don't know of a good way to check for injector performance, other than working or not working. Injectors shouldn't be rpm-dependent in their behavior, only stay open a little longer and piss more often. They are just a precise valve. The fuel pump and pressure regulator are not tied to rpm. If it is a fuel glitch, then it is strictly a computer/sensor problem and should show up as an error code.

Sorry if this is all BS, but I am just thinking about it without hard facts to work with. You need to get some hard facts about what system may be causing the problem. I have never heard of a problem like this, so I am just shooting in the dark.