OK people... i must say i love rx-7.. even tho i only saw the 3rd gen ones. Now i need some info from u fine people...

How much am i sopposed to pay for a 3rd gen rx-7??? how my miles???

Wich gen is the best??? reliability wise and performance wise and looks wise :-P

Can anyone include pics PLEASE ilooked in some places and al sawwere the 3rd gen not the 1 or second.

also what years are the 3rd? 2nd? 1st???

are they expensive to maintain? modify??

Oh and ofcourse i want the turbo rx-7 :)

Oh and another quic question.... was that a rx-7 in the fast and fuious??? the red one???

Thanks Guys... im planning to buy a nice car and im thinkin bot gettin a rx-7 so please convince me to do so :)

Search "rotary engines" on www.howstuffworks.com
As far as reliability goes, I know no shop I'm aware of will touch these engines and when they die they're expensive to fix/replace.
I love the RX-7 and the rotary engine too.

In the US, they were:
79-85 1st gen (all had 12A motors, except 84-85 GSL-SE which had 13B; all were non-turbo)
86-91 2nd gen (all had 13B motors; single turbo versions available from 87-91)
93-95 3rd gen (all had twin turbo 13B motors)

In my opinion, the most reliable is the 2nd gen non-turbo cars, 150-200k miles is common. The 3rd gen have the best bodylines, very sleek, almost like a supercar. The 3rd gen also has the most performance from the factory due to the twin turbo, but since the motor is essentially the same as the 2nd gen single turbo, you can modify them to the same hp level.

The biggest problem with these cars is that most people don't understand them. Fundamentally, they are intolerant of running lean. (causes detonation, which breaks the apex seals, requires a rebuilt motor) So if you improperly modify the car, you WILL blow your motor. But if you take the time to learn from the others that have gone before you, you can have supercar performance at a much lower price.

And while I personally like all of the bodystyles, you have to be concerned with the age of the cars and how much abuse they've taken over the years.

Kabs, I would definately say you need to read up on the cars first before getting in over your head. If you're looking into a 1st or 2nd gen n/a then they're pretty simple overall and as SuperchargedREX said they typically last at least 150k-200k miles on the first engine if taken care of properly. The Turbo II's tend to be less than that due to the added complexity and heat of the turbo. Two very informative sites to check on are www.scuderiaciriani.com and www.rx7turboturbo.com. Both have TONS of info and how-to's. Now if you're looking at 3rd gen's like the one in The Fast & The Furious *gag* then you're getting into a whole new ballgame. They are quite complex, expensive to purchase and to maintain, drink gas, high insurance, and need constant attention. If you're young and don't have a good paying job then definately stay away from them. It will be much more of a pain in the ass than it'll be worth. If you're looking for a daily driver with Honda reliability that you can rag out and beat aroun then get a Honda. With all of that in mind though they are very high performance cars and on a roadcourse will hold it's own even with today's high performance cars. You have to be ready to make a serious commitment to get into a 3rd gen, but if you're looking at 2nd gen's then they're relatively headache free. They still need a lot of TLC, but they're very fun cars, handle great, look good for their age, and can be made to perform very well. Another site to check out is www.rx7forum.com There are nearly 9000 rotary enthusiasts there that will be more than glad to answer your questions. Also check the archives and faq there too.

While Efini might have had those problems, I have not with mine. I own a 93 TT Rex, but did my research before I bought. It sounds like you are going to buy a 3rd gen from your post, so there are things you might want to consider.

1. Before you buy, check the color of exaust. If it's abnormally colored, then there are a number of problems that could be wrong.

2. Get a compression check, as the apex seals might be worn.

3. If you decide to buy, change the oil very often and get regular tune ups, and you shouldn't be replacing things very often.

Modifications are a whole different story. Since all 3rd gen's are twin turbo, the first things that you want are intake and exaust to free up it's breathing. There are many paths of modifications that you can take, depending on how much power you want out of it. The two most common problems that I have seen with these cars are overheating(because of the turbos and the suceptability of rotaries to overheat) and lean fuel mixture(detonation). If you start to get serious and go for nitrous oxide, the general rule is to retard your timing by 1 degrees for every 50 more hp added by nitrous.

Here's your pictures:

1st gen
http://www.monito.com/Images/rockd-79_2-h208.jpg
2nd gen
http://www.monito.com/Images/bburton-bencar2+.jpg
3rd gen
http://www.monito.com/Images/tilde-rxseven-ryo.jpg

i don't mean to be an ass but you should learn a helluva lot before you buy any car but especially a rotary. they're incredible if you're big into them but otherwise a civic will be much more practical

Thanks everyone.. I have done some reading and i am liking the 3rd gen more and more.

But i have a quick question. Why do i se 96 97 98 rx-7's outside of US??

And finally what do u m of a distinguished color in the exaust??

Thanks everyone!!!!

I'm not sure what RX7 4 Eva meant about the discolored exhaust as I've never heard anything about that in all the years I've been into rotaries. Typically on aftermarket exhausts the tip/canister will change color (brownish) due to the high heat rotaries put out plus they'll get black on the tip/outside due to the rich running conditions as well. Neither are necessarily bad, but they don't look too good. As he said though you'll definately wanna get a compression test done first thing. That won't always tell you the whole story, but it's a good start. Also if it doesn't have a boost guage you'll wanna see if you can borrow one to test it out. The typical boost pattern you'll see at WOT is 10-8-10 on the stock '93s and it's a bit different on '94-'95s and is likely 10-8-8 or so. From my understanding the ecu or maybe the wastgate/precontrol pills were changed a bit to lower the boost a teeny bit, but it won't make a huge difference. Vacuum on the guage should read between 15 in/Hg-20 in/Hg on a healthy engine. My particular car was in very good shape when I bought it, but what I've come to conclude is that the previous owner may have overheated it or maybe not taken quite as good care of it as I initially thought. I read up on them for nearly 2 years before I finally bought one. I was on the Big List for about 3 yrs until I bought as well so I certainly knew what was up with them, but what it all boils down to is how the previous owner took care of it. It may look clean and nice on the outside, but that's no sure fire way to tell it's overall condition. If you personally know the seller and/or they have extensive maintenence records then it may not be such a bad deal, but if they have nothing then I'd stay away unless the price is really really good. If you do find one you're considering I would highly suggest you have someone come along that knows about them or better yet take it to have it looked over by a qualified rotary mechanic/specialist. It may cost a few bucks, but it will surely give some peace of mind. I luckily had a fellow list member in the same city as my car so he checked it over for me for free before I bought it. If the owner refuses to let you do that then I would stay away as well. Steve Ciriani's site (www.scuderiaciriani.com) has a good "Buyer's Guide" that I also took with me when I finally got a chance to go check it out in person and it was very helpful. But definately keep in mind that they're tempremental cars that require constant maintenence and upkeep and will likely be a money pit as well. If you're loaded then it's probably no big deal, but they're not gas'n'go cars like a Honda by any means. Anyway, good luck if you actually do decide to buy one though :sun:

The abnormal colors in your exhaust can actually be your first step in diagnosing a motor:

White smoke: you're burning coolant, bad seals on the cooling chambers
Blue smoke: you're burning oil. Could be the oil seals on the rotor face or from the turbo.
Black smoke: you're running rich, which could be a number of things.

Ohhhh my bad I read that part wrong (loooong night the night before :bloated: ) DOH! Anyway, what SuperchargedRex said is totally correct. It's a good indication of what's going on inside for the most part.

Originally posted by Kabs
Why do i se 96 97 98 rx-7's outside of US??
the rx7's weren't too popular here so 95 was the last year. they kept making them in australia and japan til 98 and 99 was the last year when they were only sold in japan...also you know about the rx8 right?

Actually the RX7 is still in production to this day, but on a limited basis. Beyond the standard R and RS models they now produce one called the Bathurst R which is similar in concept to what the RZ model of 2 yrs ago was. Stripped down and lightweight. Check out www.mazda.co.jp for more details.

Hello Rotorheads!!!!!

First things first, be sure to follow soe of the good advice listed above, dont just 'read' it! Like someone already mentioned....DEFINITELY.....learn about the car before firing away w/ some questions. Otherwise ppl will never take you seriously. Ex....some kid looking at my 3rdgen says.....Wow great car Ive been wanting to buy one of those for sometime....does urs have the twin turbo?<-------:rolleyes: Get my point?

I dont know how old u r, but if ur young and not INTO cars, just driving them I wld stay away from any 3rd gen (aka FD). You have to respect this car and its demands. The car is much more temperamental than just about any other car you will ever drive. Definitely check out Rob's Site (http://www.rx7turboturbo.com/robrobinette/).

If you do buy one follow the reliability mods and keep up on the maintenance. If ur a lazy guy by nature and dont like upkeep on cars look elsewhere or ur just gonna be another unhappy rotary owner steering ppl away from this type of car.

Gdluck!:frog:

AMEN! :D

Another point: A turbo timer is a very important mod. I see alot of owners of turbocharged cars mistreat their cars by revving when cold, etc. My point is that if you have damaged turbos or mods that interfere with them, it can be very dangerous to your car without a turbo timer. A BOV is also a very worthwhile mod to have in mind. Everyone who said these cars are tempremental are right, so just be serious about putting in time and effort if you decide to get one.

Why is a BOV a worthwhile mod? just curious.

Altho a turbotimer is a great mod, if ur a disciplined type person and let it cool down a few minutes before shutting down (esp after a hard run) you really dont need it. If ur lazy, definitely get one!

aside from the obvious fact that the sound of BOVs instantly give me throbbing boners, they also relieve pressure while the throttle is closed (during shifts). this can save your engine when your running too much boost

When you let go of the gas at high revs or shift, your turbos are still at high revs but your engine is not. This creates a high amount of boost pressure that shoots back down to your turbos from your engine. This causes the turbos to stop suddenly. You can damage your turbos from the sudden stoppage and they take a while to spool back up again. With a BOV, that excess pressure is bypassed into the atmosphere, activated by pressure. It will have dramatic effects on your turbo and engine life, plus mid-range turbo lag is eliminated.

Aside from that sound, doesnt the car have a stock bov? Keep teaching me guys! :)

i'm half talking out of my ass here but i highly doubt they come with one (actually there would be 2 if any). i'm assuming they come with an internal wastegate though which regulates the boost pressure so you don't have to worry about damaging the turbo or the engine. has any car ever come with a BOV?

Yeah 3rd gens definately come with a stock BOV. It's a Nippon Denso unit and is actually a really good quality unit. Easily as good as most of those aftermarket ones, but just not as flashy. It's hooked up to your airbox on the left side...it's one of two smaller hoses...the lower one. It's a brownish looking thing just off of the airbox. It looks like...ummm...not sure It's like a little toy looking plastic thingy. You can unattach it from the box and it sounds just fine, but make sure to close up the hole in the airbox so dirt doesn't get in there. It's set up that way so that the purged air is routed back into the intake, but it's so little that it's negligable.:flash:

A lot of the older single turbo cars like the RX7 TIIs, DSM's, Mitsu Starions, Celica All Tracs, MR2s, and whatnot usually don't come with a BOV simply due to cost and that they're not running much boost to take much advantage of it. I could be wrong about some of those cars though. Due to the rather complex system of the 3rd gen RX7's they of course have a wastegate...all turbos do, but it also has what is called a Pre-Control which is part of the sequential system. This essentially bleeds off some boost to the 2nd turbo so it's already spinning good when it comes online. Toyota has a different sequential system on the Supra though that uses stepper motors I believe. It does the same thing, but mechanically.

oh wow, i feel dumb. so how loud is the thing? i've heard fd rx7s before that didn't seem to have a BOV...or maybe they were running at such low boost the BOV wasn't doing anything

It's all good ;) They're nearly impossible to hear in stock form since it just blows back into the airbox and it's kinda hidden down below some other hoses. I had no idea what it was or where it was for the longest time either :p Once it's disconnected from the airbox it's nearly as loud as most aftermarket ones, but it really wasn't designed for volume. It's pretty ugly too since it's brown and shaped like a McDonald's Happy Meal toy:p

hahaha