ignition switch - anti theft

surgicaltech · 02-14-2004, 06:02 PM

The tumblers in my 1996 Grand AM GT ignition switch were stuck, so I drilled the ignition switch out. (the only way I could get the igniton switch out,since the key wouldn't turn) Now, when I try to start the car, it will start for about 2 secs. then die. I tried to bypass the anti theft by leaving the ignition in the on position for 10 mins., but it still won't start. Does anybody have any clue as to what I can do now???
thanks in advance...Mike

Flatrater · 02-15-2004, 08:15 AM

You are saying you left the key on in the run position for 10 minutes with no help? You have to keep the key on till the light goes out. Sometimes this needs to be done 3 times for it to learn the new cylinder or the only other thing that can be done is to have the computer relearn at a dealer using the scanner.

surgicaltech · 02-15-2004, 08:30 AM

ok, is there a way to bypass this without an ignition switch. i'm trying to atleast get the car moved until i get the money for a new ignition switch..thanks...mike..

Flatrater · 02-15-2004, 03:46 PM

Yes it can be bypassed considering a remote start system does just that! I believe you can use a resistor to do this, I can't remember what resistance you need.

surgicaltech · 02-15-2004, 04:02 PM

ok,now for the million dollar question. I know that theres 3 wires, yellow,black and orange, where do i put the resistor??

Overtime · 02-15-2004, 08:51 PM

This might help. Since you have a 96, you have Passlock I.
http://12voltinstallations.8m.com/photo.html
It is not simply a matter of putting in a resistor, as you need to tell the computer when to read the resistance (with the relay and the bulb test wire). My understanding is that there are many different resistances which will work, but it is a very exact thing. Normally to bypass, you have to have a working cylinder in order to read the resistance to determine the resistor value. I had this problem with my 97 and attempted to do what you are trying to do, but without a resistance value...

ponchonutty · 02-15-2004, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Overtime

This might help. Since you have a 96, you have Passlock I.
http://12voltinstallations.8m.com/photo.html
It is not simply a matter of putting in a resistor, as you need to tell the computer when to read the resistance (with the relay and the bulb test wire). My understanding is that there are many different resistances which will work, but it is a very exact thing. Normally to bypass, you have to have a working cylinder in order to read the resistance to determine the resistor value. I had this problem with my 97 and attempted to do what you are trying to do, but without a resistance value...

If all you did what remove the cyl. and did not damage the keysense wire, it should still start if you put the key close to the reciever ring that is attached around the cyl. lock.

Overtime · 02-16-2004, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

If all you did what remove the cyl. and did not damage the keysense wire, it should still start if you put the key close to the reciever ring that is attached around the cyl. lock.

I think the problem he is having, is that when he drilled the tumblers out, he damaged the switch mechanism which activates the resistance generator (the little black electronic component embedded in the side of the cylinder. There are a number of very sensitive springs in the lock cylinder which perform the task of activating the generator when the key is inserted and turned. 96-98 have Passlock I, which is a normal key and a resitance generator in the lock cylinder, unlike vats and Passlock III which have a resistor in the key.

surgicaltech · 02-16-2004, 05:17 PM

well,here's the update. i got a new key lock cylinder today from the dealer. but, i can't get the damn thing installed!!! there is the one piece clear at the bottom of the hole that has the plastic tit in the middle of it, that piece will not seat properly. i don't know what the hell i'm doing wrong..anybody have any ideas?? thanks...mike...

Overtime · 02-16-2004, 08:03 PM

In order to have the cylinder turned just so to be able to drop it in, you have to insert the key and turn it to aproximately the ON position. You should be able to push the retaining tab in, on the side of the cylinder. At this point the cylinder should drop right in.

surgicaltech · 02-16-2004, 10:10 PM

i see what you mean, but the very first piece to go in (the part that acts like coupler between the column and the cylinder it's self) is the one that won't seat right. i know it only goes in one way, but i'm having a hell of a time getting it to go!

surgicaltech · 02-18-2004, 02:21 PM

Well,here's an update.I finally figured out why the actuator wouldn't seat right. seems the mechanism for the steering wheel lock needed to be held out of the way in order for the actuator to seat right. With that out of the way it was smooth sailing!! Left the key on for 10min, and it fired right up!! I also want to thank everybody for the informative replies...thanks again...mike.....

Overtime · 02-18-2004, 02:55 PM

Glad to hear you got it working, Mike. Thanks for letting us know!

ponchonutty · 02-18-2004, 10:04 PM

Way to go. Glad to hear that you got it.

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