I had 2 codes before a 10 and 17. fixed the 17 and i thought i fix the 10. When i drove down the street check engine came on flash 23 or is it 10 13. Wire loose???
thanks
seadoo920xp@sbcglobal.net

How long was the pause between the 2 long flashes (10's) compared to the pause between the 2nd long flash and the single flashes (1's) at the end? If there was only a short pause between the 1st two then it's a 23 (knock sensor). If there is a slightly longer pause between the first 2 (10's) then it's a 10 and a 13 (intake air temperature sensor and Barometric sensor respectively). And with any of those it could be a bad wire, loose wire, or bad sensor. Is there anything else wrong with it; is the motor dogging-out or idling bad?

How long was the pause between the 2 long flashes (10's) compared to the pause between the 2nd long flash and the single flashes (1's) at the end? If there was only a short pause between the 1st two then it's a 23 (knock sensor). If there is a slightly longer pause between the first 2 (10's) then it's a 10 and a 13 (intake air temperature sensor and Barometric sensor respectively). And with any of those it could be a bad wire, loose wire, or bad sensor. Is there anything else wrong with it; is the motor dogging-out or idling bad?

Ok thanks well,
I fixed code 17 speed sensor and vetec now kicks in hard but when i turn the car on no check engine light, after a little bit check engine light goes on. Blink Blink one two three stop. Blink Blink one two three stop. etc....
Feels like there should be a little bit more power on bottom... Top is good. When it gets to 5500 vetc kicks hard. Bottom kinda lags..
jeff

And i have a new 10 sensor and 17 sensor.. $$$$