hey guys, im new to the whole rotary thing, so wat do i need to get 350rwhp reliable horse power

lots of patience, lots of time, lots of luck getting parts and someone to work on it if you aren't going to... and oh yeah, lots of money. gl though


what year car?

Research!

350RWHP - Reliable. Hmmmm.....

Start w/ a fresh engine. Street ported too.

A T-66 or T-o4 or somewhere near that for a turbo.
(I expect to get close to 400RWHP from my T-04E after tuning it in a couple of weeks)

Upgraded fuel system and upgraded cooling system. A good FMIC.

Complete Exhaust and Intake.

Good stand alone ECU - Wolf3D has impressed me a lot lately.

I would say you would need to spend in the $15,000 neighborhood plus car to get a rock solid reliable 350RWHP.

Per a member of No pistons today over another member looking for the cheapest Walbro fuel pump.
cheap. reliable, or high performance -- pick 2, that's all you get.

Or you could always do this......


http://www.nopistons.com/forums/uploads/post-1-1072833548.jpg

wow, why do i need all that, ive read places that with a tkt kit from petit and some other mods i should be able to get to about 350rwhp for 5k or less ?

hey Jims..whats the ballpark figure for the setup u got with hte REW in your 87?


Are there NA 20Bs or are the Twin Turbo

20B's are stock twin turbo.
I have read that people have successfully converted them to non turbo by changing out the rotors for N/A rotors.

My setup in my TII cost about 15K.
Engine was $2200
Pettit rebuild/porting/3mm seals - $4500
HKS Turbo kit - $3500
FMIC - $1000
Motec M-4 - $4000
Misc. crap - $2000
Custom Fabs to make engine fit in car - $2500
*I am missing stuff here but you get the idea

Blue - I am guessing you are talking a FD. They are rated at 255HP you will usually see about 225-235 at the wheels stock.

There are other ways to get 350RWHP. You could keep the stock twins and boost the hell out of them I saw a FD w/ stock twins pull almost 400RWHP at 20PSI. How long will the turbos hold up?? Not long.

If you go w/ Pettit kits you cannot go wrong. He has spent a lot of money on research to get very reliable HP. To get 350RWHP or close to 400 engine HP is a pretty decent gain.

How about this scenerio -
Power FC - $1200
Bigger injectors - $500
Full exhaust - $1000
Intake - $200
Boost controler - $300

You could get 350RWHP with that I am sure. Will it be reliable. No.
You need a better turbo better intercooling and a better cooling system. Remember you doubled the cars HP output it will run hotter.

If you do decide to geta streetport, make sure you select a mechanic with a lot of experience making them. If done incorrectly, your engine could go up in flames.

If done correctly, /drool. My first RWD drive was 1979 RX-7 12 street ported to about 220 hp and my friend Don (my mechanic) was trying to get me to let him turbo charge it.

/sigh I miss that car.

Reliable. Power. Cheap.

You can only pick TWO.

Stage I:
Estimated Boost:8psi (5.5psi stock) Zenki
10psi (7.5psi stock) Kouki
Estimated Power:200hp (182hp stock) Zenki
220hp (200hp stock) Kouki
1/4-mile Potential:mid to high 14's (low 15's stock)

Emissions:Not affected - will pass smog

Rewire fuel pump power:
Power going to the fuel pump is suspect on these cars due to age and corrosion of the wires and connectors. A rewire guarantees full voltage to the fuel pump.
An optional (more expensive) solution is to go with a fuel pump voltage regulator. Kenne Bell offers their Boost-A-Pump that will ensure proper voltage levels. Others are made by MSD and B&M. If you choose this route, a re-wire is not necessary.

F.C.D.:
The fuel-cut defenser prevents overboost fuel-cut when running higher boost levels. The stock ECU is programmed to trigger fuel-cut when running approximately 1psi over the stock boost levels.

Air Filter:
K&N offers a drop in filter replacement of your OEM stock air filter that will flow more air. K&N part number 33-2017.

Cat-Back Exhaust:
A cat-back exhaust system will free up your exhaust system by replacing the restrictive Y-pipe and mufflers. Emissions is still intact. Although technically not a "cheap" purchase, the (freeing of the) exhaust system is the key to producing power on these vehicles.

Porting Stock Turbo Wastegate:
The stock wastegate will be overwhelmed when exhaust is freed. This can cause uncontrolled boost creep that can damage your engine. Although labor intensive, it is a very cheap mod is you have the proper tools.

Shimming Eccentric Shaft Thermowax Pellet:
Not so much as a performance mods, but more for a safety precaution against a failing front eccentric shaft thermowax pellet. Failure of this part will cause decreased oil pressure inside the engine.


Stage II
goes into an extension of Stage I. Mods are to stress reliability and efficiency of the engine without impacting emissions; the car should still be able to pass an emissions sniffer test without any problems. Very strict visual tests would arouse suspicions.

Stage II:
Estimated Boost:10psi Zenki
11psi Kouki
Estimated Power:220hp Zenki
230hp Kouki
1/4-mile Potential: low 14's

Emissions:Will pass smog sniffer tests, but questionable on a visual

Fuel Pump Upgrade:
An upgrade fuel pump guarantees fuel supply for increased power. It also prevents lean conditions due to the stock fuel pump running out of capacity when getting close to the 250hp level.

Downpipe:
Replacing the stock pre-catalytic converter with a downpipe will increase engine breathing and release more power. The pre-cat is primarily for cold-start emissions, but this should not affect a sniffer test when the engine is fully warmed up properly.

Ignition CDI Box:
An ignition CDI box will produce a more consistent ignition system. The stock ignition system has been known to be "weak". A Crane Cams HI-6 or MSD 6A will give you a little more power (up to 5hp) across the entire RPM band, crisper throttle response, and possibly better gas mileage!

Electric Fan:
The stock viscous fan can fail without warning. Installation of an electric fan will free up some of the parasitic power loss from the stock viscous fan. An electric fan is also a much more efficient method of cooling, since the fan is only active when needed.

Cone Air Filter:
The stock air filter box is very restrictive. By replacing the air filter box and stock panel air filter with a cone filter, we free up the intake even more. 1986-1988 Zenki models needs to run an airflow meter adapter plate to mount a cone filter. 1989-1991 Kouki models can just clamp an air filter directly to the airflow meter.

Fuel Computer:
The addition of the fuel computer adds to fine-tuning the fuel delivery. This might or might not add to peak horsepower, but substantial gains are made by leaning out the midrange, as the stock ECU runs rich in these areas. One of the most popular types of fuel computers if the A'PEXi S-AFC.


Stage III
is the point of no return for emissions. With these mods, the car not pass an emissions test. A lot of the mods are to remove emissions components that are not necessary, the key component being the removal of the main catalytic converter. Power potential takes a large jump due to the removal of the main cat.

Stage III:
Estimated Boost: 12psi
Estimated Power: 250hp
1/4-mile Potential: high 13's

Emissions: Will not pass emissions

Pre-silencer:
Replacing the main catalytic converter with an in-line muffler ensures a very free flowing exhaust system. You can even go straight pipe for this section, but a pre-silencer will give you a quieter exhaust note. With the removal of the main cat, emissions gets thrown out the door.

TID Replacement:
By replacing the stock turbo inlet duct with a straighter pipe section, the intake gains even more efficiency.

Air Pump Removal:
Main cats have been removed, so there's no need for the air pump. We recommend running a double-sheave alternator pulley and double water pump/alternator belts to prevent water pump pulley slippage after removing the air pump.

ACV/EGR Valve Removal:
Likewise with the air pump, the ACV and EGR valves have no use once the main cat is removed. After removal, replace with a block-off plate.

Upgrade Fuel Injectors:
At this level of power, the stock fuel injectors (4x550) are getting close to their maximum safe output at 85%. Larger fuel injectors (coupled with the control of a fuel computer in Stage II) would allow for safer pulsewidths under 85%.

Upgrade Radiator:
The (turbo) rotary engine generates a lot of heat. The increase in power requires the needs for more cooling capacity. An upgrade radiator ensures increased cooling over the stock unit.


Stage III+ is an extension of Stage III. The foundation for more power through higher boost has already been laid. With the higher boost levels, more power can be produced. The stock turbocharger cannot handle more than 14psi of boost consistently; higher boost pressure tend to cause it's oil seals to fail and produce excessive oil leaking. This causes huge clouds of oil smoke from the exhaust.

Stage III+:
Estimated Boost: 14psi
Estimated Power: 280hp
1/4-mile Potential: low 13's
Emissions: Don't even bother

Electronic Boost Controller:
An electronic boost controller will give you a more boost and a more aggressive boost curve. While running such modified boost levels, you'll need to tune for the fuel delivery with the fuel computer mentioned in Stage II.

Gauges:
Although not a performance enhancement, aftermarket gauges are used to monitor vital areas of your engine. They can immediately tell you when you're in danger and pinpoint a potential component failure. This is more of a safety mod at this point, as we are starting to make almost 100hp more than stock!

Blow-off Valve:
With the increased boost, the potential for compressor surge is increased. By going with an aftermarket blow-off valve, we increase the capacity to vent the increased boost over the stock compressor bypass valve. Compressor surge will eventually kill turbo bearings and cause the turbo to wobble itself to death.

Upgrade Oil Pressure Regulator:
With the increase of power, higher oil pressure is recommended to keep bearings and internal components libricated properly. Racing Beat offers an 80psi-85psi upgrade OPR that is easily installed once the oil pan is removed.


Stage IV will start to go beyond the capacities of the stock components. This is mainly for the stock turbocharger and intercooler. The upgrade fuel pump and larger fuel injector should be able to support power levels to the largest compressor upgrade available for the stock
Hitachi HT-18; the 60-1 compressor upgrade is the largest compressor upgrade we can go with that will fit with relative ease. Fine-tuning of fuel delivery is possible with the fuel computer recommended in Stage II.

Stage IV:
Estimated Boost: 14psi
Estimated Power: Up to 350hp
1/4-mile Potential: low to mid 12's
Emissions: Don't even bother

Compressor Turbo Upgrade:
The stock turbo is restricting power at this point. By enlarging the compressor section, we can increase serious power potential! By keeping the stock turbine center (CHRA) and turbine housing (and turbine wheel), we are able to keep the stock turbo exhaust manifold and forego the cost of an expensive (full) turbo upgrade.

In my opinion this is the only way to get that much power and still have a reliable car. Sorry if i left something out.

wow thanks alot that was very informative, i think im going to do what jim said, so i can pass emissions cuz they have them in new jersey

Blue did you see the FD for sale at NP?? $7500 blown motor and it looks really clean. Go check it out. Perfect car to build up.