2000 model Silverado Z71 extended cab...
Took it in the other day for oil change and inspection sticker.
Didn't pass inspection because parking break pedal just goes to the floor - very little brake - would role on just about any incline if not in park.

The guy told me this is a very common problem for this truck, but I have not been able to find anything on it in any forum.

Anyone know about this?

I have the same problem. Anyone with any answers?

Ditto on the parking/emergency brake issue! Its not just the Silverado ... It appears to be symtomatic of all GMC 1999-2002 trucks/SUVs. Check out the GMC > Yukon > Parking Brake forum.

Due to this being a safety issue, GMC should do the correct thing and order a recall and fix the problem ...

Scraping Noise From Rear Of Vehicle (Replace Parking Brake Shoe Kit and Clean Drum In Hat Rotor)
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series Pickups

2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe 1500 Series Models

2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 Series Models

1999-2003 GMC Sierra 1500 Series Pickups

2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL 1500 Series Models

This bulletin is being revised to add Suburban and Yukon XL models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-26-002 (Section 05 - Brakes).

Condition
Some customers may comment on a scraping noise from the rear of the vehicle while driving. The noise may be intermittent.

Cause
Condition may due to the parking brake shoe contacting the drum in hat rotor without the parking brake being applied, causing premature wear on the shoe lining.

Correction
Replace the parking brake shoe and install a new designed spring clip retainer. Follow the service procedure below to correct this condition.

Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in the General Information sub-section of the Service Information (SI Document ID #639546).
Remove the tire and the wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in the Tires and Wheels sub-section of the Service Information (SI Document ID #656965).
Relieve the tension on the park brake cables by loosening the nut at the equalizer.
Mark the relationship of the rotor to the hub.
Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts.

Notice
Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from it's mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.


Remove the brake caliper and brake caliper bracket as an assembly and support with heavy mechanic's wire or equivalent. DO NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper.
Remove the rotor retaining push nuts from the wheel studs (if applicable).

Notice
DO NOT use a hammer to remove the rotor from the hub; it may cause damage to the rotor.



Important
The rotor may not be easily removed from the hub due to a rust build up on the outside edge of the drum and hat portion of the rotor.


Remove the rotor from the hub. If the rotor cannot be removed from the hub by pulling on the rotor, use J 46277 rotor removal tool.

Notice
Place J 46277 between the rotor surfaces in the vent section of the rotor. DO NOT place J 46277 on the back side of the rotor surface, it may damage the rotor surface.


Using removal tool J 46277 on slide hammer J 6125B, remove the rotor by placing removal tool J 46277 in the vent section of the rotor at the twelve, three, six and nine o'clock positions, not necessarily in that order.
Clean the rust ridge from the drum portion of the rotor using a grinding stone and rotor resurfacing kit J 41013.
Remove the spring clip bolt (3) and retainer (2) and discard.




Important
Minimum thickness of the parking brake shoe lining in any given spot is 1.5 mm (0.06 in).


Measure the parking brake shoe thickness in multiple spots. Replace the parking brake shoe if the thickness is less than 1.5 mm (0.06 in). Continue with step 14.
If the parking brake shoe lining is greater than 1.5 mm (0.06 in), continue with step 19.



Rotate the parking brake shoe (1) out from the bottom and pull it out of the adjuster. Discard the shoe.
Remove the park brake shoe assembly from the vehicle by placing one of the open ends of the shoe over the axle flange and rotate the shoe until it has cleared the flange.



Turn the adjustment screw (1) to the fully home position in the notched adjustment nut.
Install the new park brake shoe assembly (1) from the parking brake shoe kit, P/N 88982875, to the vehicle by placing one of the open ends of the shoe over the axle flange and rotating the shoe until it is behind the flange.
Slide the shoe into the adjuster and position the shoe to the backing plate. Install the retaining spring clip (2) and bolt (3 ) from the parking brake shoe kit, P/N 88982875. If using parking brake service kit 88982875, SKIP STEP 19.
Replace the retaining spring clip (2) and bolt (3) from the parking brake retaining spring clip kit, P/N 88982879. Tighten
Tighten the bolt (3) to 5 N·m (44 lb in).





Set the J 21177-A so that it contacts the inside diameter of the rotor.



Position the J 21177-A over the shoe and the lining at the widest point.




Important
The parking brake adjustment screw threads should not exceed 5 mm (0.2 in) of exposed thread.
The clearance between the park brake shoe and the rotor is 0.6604 mm (0.026 in).

The parking brake adjustment screw threads should not exceed 5 mm (0.2 inch) of exposed thread.

Notice
Whenever the brake rotor has been separated from the wheel bearing flange, clean any rust or foreign material from the mating surface of the rotor and flange with the J 42450 hub cleaning kit. Failure to do this may result in increased lateral runout of the rotor and brake pulsation.


Use the J 42450-A to clean all rust and contaminants from the mating surface of the hub flange.
Use the J 41013 to clean all rust and contaminants from the inside diameter of the hat section of the brake rotor to prevent any foreign material from getting between the brake rotor and the hub flange.
Align the mark on the rotor with the mark on the hub and install the rotor by slowly turning the rotor while pushing the rotor towards the axle.
Install the caliper and the bracket as an assembly to the vehicle.
Perform the following procedure before installing the caliper bracket mounting bolts.
Remove all traces of the original adhesive.
Clean the threads of the bolt with brake parts cleaner, P/N 12346139 (Canadian P/N 10953463), and allow to dry.
Apply threadlocker, GM P/N 12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488), or Red LOCTITE™ #272, to the threads of the bolt.

Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.


Install the caliper bracket mounting bolts. Tighten
Tighten the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts to 175 N·m (129 lb ft).

Repeat this procedure on the other side of the vehicle.
Tighten the nut to the intermediate cable at the equalizer. Tighten
Tighten the nut to 3.5 N·m (31 lb in).

Install the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in the Tires and Wheels sub-section of the Service Information (SI Document ID #656965).
Lower the vehicle.
Verify that the self adjuster lock-out pin has been removed.
Fully apply and release the park brake pedal three times.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description

88982875
Parking Brake Shoe Kit

88982879
Parking Brake Retainer Spring Clip Kit

12346139 (Canadian P/N 10953463)
Brake Parts Cleaner

12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488)
Red LOCTITE™ #272

Thanks for posting that 99SS. I have been hearing a scraping sound coming from the rear of my '02 Silverado. I just took of the wheels to replace the rear pads and found that there is still plenty of meat left on them (which I can't believe with 46,000 miles of hard driving on them). So I began spining the hub to see what was making that noise and I hear it's coming from inside the drum portion. It comes and goes, and I think it may just be a piece of flaky rust. But I wanted to take off the rotor to check it out. It's not wanting to move.

I came inside to check on the internet on how to remove the rear rotor on my truck and it brought me here. Great site. Thanks and thanks again for the info. I look foward to talking about these trucks here.

Chris

Parking brake adjustment, is on the drivers side, outboard of the frame rail were the bed meets the cab. I just did mine on a 99, and I had to washer shim the adjuster nut because it was bottomed out (from the factory) Be carefull not to over adjust, or you will drag the parking brake shoes that are located inside of your rear brake rotors.

"One more thing here" my parking brake peddle still reaches the floor, but with considerable more force, and with the brake set I put my truck in gear, and gased it without any movement.

-Mike

I have been complaining about the grinding for two years and my mechanic thought I was paranoid. Finally, I went camping in Yosemite and my e-brake failed completely. That was scary. When I got home I took it to a new guy and he said the e-brake shoe? was so far off (actually pushed to the side) he thought at first it was missing. After a $180; it works. I think Chevy needs several recalls.
I am going to write the NTSB, again. This is absurd this is too often a problem obviously. I wonder out loud often if my truck was designed by a drunk?!?

I have looked and looked on my 01 for an adjuster, but have not found one in the cable anywhere. Anyone find an adjuster for a 01 HD?

01' ext cab sb. The parking brake has been crap from day one!

The scraping sound you hear is probably a piece of the adjustment screw that broke off and is ubbing against the the disk ) removing the disk will make the screw fall to the ground. Again the premature wear on the parking brake is due to a half assed design, where the brake pads do not realign themselves in the center of the wheel, instead one of the pads is always rubbing against the drum and wearing it out. Had mine replace a month ago and already the pedal is getting to the bottom of the floor. what you can do is when you get the pads replaced really put your foot into it when putting the parking brake so the added tension centers the pads better when the springs expand. But yes, it is a piece of crap and when they wear out I don´t think I´ll fix them again.

Having spent all weekend working on my '01 4x4 brakes, I thought I would get in my 2 cents. The entire rear brake system disintegrates in our climate (upstate NY). The parking brake adjusters were rusted solid, the rotors were junk, and the parking brake linings were shot. The backing plate may last to the next brake job. I haven't used the parking brake for a while as it didn't work, but it is required to pass inspection. You have to pull the axles to remove the parking brake adjusters and the rubber boot at the parking brake actuator. If the boot is shot, more moisture enters the adjuster. So, $280 later I still don't have it back together as the boot is only available at GM.

What genius at GM decided that it would be necessary to pull the axles to do a proper brake job? At least I'm putting in new seals and getting fresh fluid in the differential. I will never use the parking brake again. Maybe it will last longer that way.

Thanks, I thought I was going crazy. I heard the noise coming from the rear so I went to replace the rear pads. After I couldn't one side of the rotor off, that's another question for the day. SO I had someone else to do it and he tells me there's nothing wrong with the brakes. But I still heard the noise. Ok now caliper bolts, do the just screw out, I turn them both ways the did not turn out . What's the problem.

01' ext cab sb. The parking brake has been crap from day one!

I agree! Same truck, same parking brake.

Kris

I find I posted 4 years ago when frustrated doing rear brakes. Well, guess what. I only got 4 years and 60,000 miles out of that brake job. This time the backing plates are gone - disintegrated. The pins are stuck in the calipers, the rotors are trash, and I haven't used my parking break more than 5 times in 4 years. This is after I liberally lubricated everything I could find with high temp grease and anti-seize. At least the rotors came off easily. And the rear parking brake shoes are still $80! The parts dealer wanted to sell me expensive rotors and pads. I told him not to bother - they don't wear out, they rust together. This is the last brake job I'll do on this truck because I'm afraid I'll have to replace the entire rear end next time!

I find I posted 4 years ago when frustrated doing rear brakes. Well, guess what. I only got 4 years and 60,000 miles out of that brake job. This time the backing plates are gone - disintegrated. The pins are stuck in the calipers, the rotors are trash, and I haven't used my parking break more than 5 times in 4 years. This is after I liberally lubricated everything I could find with high temp grease and anti-seize. At least the rotors came off easily. And the rear parking brake shoes are still $80! The parts dealer wanted to sell me expensive rotors and pads. I told him not to bother - they don't wear out, they rust together. This is the last brake job I'll do on this truck because I'm afraid I'll have to replace the entire rear end next time!

i have made mods to this defective design park/disc rear brake on 2000 silverado...so far after the first year the fix is still working 6years now ...only manual transmissions have recall.. NHTSA is broken , and GM don't care....


90,000 mi front pads 60,000 mi rear pads, and the park brake shoes can't flop around so they never wear out and work when needed ....usually only at state inspection.....

I only got 4 years and 60,000 miles out of that brake job. This time the backing plates are gone - disintegrated. The pins are stuck in the calipers, the rotors are trash, and I haven't used my parking brake more than 5 times in 4 years. This is after I liberally lubricated everything I could find with high temp grease and anti-seize. At least the rotors came off easily. And the rear parking brake shoes are still $80! The parts dealer wanted to sell me expensive rotors and pads. I told him not to bother - they don't wear out, they rust together. This is the last brake job I'll do on this truck because I'm afraid I'll have to replace the entire rear end next time!

I had to laugh when I read this. Sounds exactly like what I found on my 2005 Suburban this morning. Backing plates totally rusted and disintegrated.
What clueless idiots designed this so you have to remove the rear axles to replace the backing plates.... I mean WTF??

I had to laugh when I read this. Sounds exactly like what I found on my 2005 Suburban this morning. Backing plates totally rusted and disintegrated.
What clueless idiots designed this so you have to remove the rear axles to replace the backing plates.... I mean WTF??

I replaced my rear backing plates with out removing the axles about 3years ago 2000 silverado...4x4...

I simply cut them in half and installed the 2 pieces...i didn't even weld or reinforce the cut area...what I did do is coat them with a high quality rust proofing compound. as of this date they still look new...


what I found was GM had the rusted backing plates painted with out primer and without being cleaned this is why the fail so badly...


another chapter in designed to fail...



this post is too old, but I just had to respond to berts comment....

Just had this happen to me in an 2004 Tahoe 107K. Great information in this tread!!!

and g.m. wonders why you don't go running back to buy another $20,000.00 + truck from them so they can get back to screwing you again with their junk.........if g.m. would quit getting their parts made in mexico they might last longer.and quit putting so much faith in dumb*** engineers they might get back to making a product they did in the '60's and '70's.