jdmhvac3

replaced dist, cap, rotor , wires and plugs started truck and it started right up. 3 min later truck died and wont start unless gas peddle is flored,
it sputers and wont hold idle. codes are coolant temp sensor 22, and 54 failure to sync fuel ? HELP PLEASE

addihs214

What about the fuel pump or filter? Have you replaced them or do you know when they were replaced last? Can you hear the fuel pump start when you turn the key on?

Just a few ideas
Dan

jdmhvac3

yes you can hear the fuel pump, no i dont knowwhen or if the pump or filter has been changed. thanks for the reply

jdmhvac3

any one else had major problems ? or am i wasting my time with this truck?

nightdriver09

Your fuel pump sounds ok to me. I think code 54 is
the key. You have a pickup plate in the distributor,
it's the black plate down below the rotor. There is
a transistor that gets a signal from the reluctor as
it spins that tells the computer to fire. It's a dealer
item, probably about $62 right now. Also recheck
your plug and wire routing just to be sure. In just
under 15 years with 3 different Daks I've only had
one go out, but when it did, it sounded like what
you described. No, Gen II's are damn fine trucks.

RABarrett

I agree with night driver here. The coolant temp will affect the computer's ability to sync fuel. What this means is simple. When the engine is cold, the system is operated in what is called "batch" fire. It fires the injectors twice per stroke, allowing the extra fuel needed when cold to be delivered, dependent on crankshaft position. Above about 100 deg F. the computer reverts to "sequential" fire, meaning that it follows the firing order, once per revolution per cylinder. Any confusion relating to this programming will affect this performance, and affect fuel delivered. Chrysler has had its share of problems with these distributor mounted units. Ray

jdmhvac3

ok...great thanks for responding the distributer asmbly is new only 2 weeks tops....i will replace coolent temp sensor , should i clear codes before starting ? that would make sense.... that is done by removing battery connector , right?

addihs214

Yeah, that's all you do to reset the computer.

nightdriver09

Hey, man, you never said anything about the dist.
being changed. That changes everything. Who did
it and was it done correctly? All those dists. are
preset at the factory to TDC. Now it seems that you would not have a problem with the pickup plate.
I suggest you recheck the position of the rotor, as
what you said originally sounded like a timing issue.
Hand set your engine to #1 TDC, firing stroke, and
see where the heck your rotor is in relation to #1
on the cap. Don't run that thing anymore than nec-
essary as you are throwing unburned fuel right at
the catalyst, bestway to ruin it.

jdmhvac3

as my first post stated,......QUOTE: ("replaced dist, cap, rotor , wires and plugs ")


i did the swap bought new dist from NAPA also have dodge manual from chrysler, checked position of crank markings made sure it on compression of #1 with compression gauge, made sure rotor was lined up with mark on distributer as stated in repair manual. I was a mechanic for 9 years until i got a job offer in the heating and AC field, so i'm not that much of a newbie even though ive been out of the circle for 11
But thanks for pointing the poss prob out , ithink i will change the coolant temp sensor reset the codes and then let you all know the out come... jim

purplehayss

If you have a magnum motor hope you did not use a timing light, you need to set the timing with a 5 volt reference. That year is hard to call, mid year changes and all, the other problem may be a distributer drive gear bushing. The marks, well they are not perfectly accurate, but you also have tons of play, I think you would probably have to check the 5 volt reference, been a couple of years since I did one so don't want to lead you wrong on the color of wires, but if you use a timing light, you are screwed. What gets me is the flooring of the gas pedal, when you do that, it cuts off fuel, but that also makes me think you have the magnum.......

jimg300

Now, that's strange; the day before christmas a friend of mine asked me to look at his 1993 Dakota 3.9. He also said he replaced the distributor, wires,coil. He also said it started right way,drove the truck 8 miles , continued to run ,worst,cutting out,no power till he finally called the tow truck. When went to his garage the truck had no spark,(you never mentioned that check for this,I assume it does, since it does run.) his truck also displayed code 54. Checked for 12 volts at coil. Had voltage for 3seconds(powered by fuel pump relay.) I had to leave,but plan to go back today,any words of wisdom? Did you get yours running? thanks jim g

jdmhvac3

i dont have mine running yet. i havn't had alot of time to mess with it due to the holidays.altho the last time i started it when it was cold out it started ok and ran for 15 min then the same thing happened,it died and would only start with gas peddle floored and it would not hold a idle,rather it would not run below aprox 2500 to 3000 rpm.

anything you come up with please let me know any and all info is great to have.

Jim

jdmhvac3

sorry i didnt answer the other thread

yes it is a magnum not sure what you mean by setting by 5 volt that info would be nice to know....i did not use a timing light just set the dist the way the book stated.

tomburke

I had a 93 dodge dakota with a magnum 3.9 engine and i had all your troble. I replaced two fuel pumps, one crank senor, plug wires and plugs, the complete distrubuter unit, but still no good, so then i found out that a common problem with that engine is the timing chain and had it replaced with a self tennioning timing chain which corrected all problems.