Hey i'm new to this board so don't slam me just got a few questions

1st one - is i wanna install NOS and a turbo but i'v heard that isn't possable???

2nd - what about NOS in a supercharged motor???

3rd - i think i topped my car out today at about 95mph i got a 93' Civic HB, but i wanna go faster (way faster) so i was wondering how to get my car fast and, if turbo is the way how easy is it to install and how do i get the highest boost p.s.i. out of it?

Originally posted by D-Loc
Hey i'm new to this board so don't slam me just got a few questions

1st one - is i wanna install NOS and a turbo but i'v heard that isn't possable???

2nd - what about NOS in a supercharged motor???

3rd - i think i topped my car out today at about 95mph i got a 93' Civic HB, but i wanna go faster (way faster) so i was wondering how to get my car fast and, if turbo is the way how easy is it to install and how do i get the highest boost p.s.i. out of it?
k, I'm no expert when it comes to FI, but I'll do my best. Anybody correct me if I'm wrong.
1) It is possible that you have both, but I believe it probably wouldn't be necessary to have both, since you can turn up the psi if you have a turbo.
2) N20 is also possible to have with a SC
3) Well to get your car faster, one route to go would be FI. I think as far as installing turbo kits go, each one varies, but you should probably know your stuff when it comes to engines if you plan on installing your own. Also if you plan on boosting high with a turbo, you will be required to build up the bottom end, or else... KABOOM.

i love civic eg's...what type do you have? to get that thing faster i'd first drop a new engine in

wow, you can get in the 10's with that minivan? Imagine what you could do with something more aerodynamic and not as heavy. That IS the ultimate sleeper.

Yes it's very possible to run both a Turbo and N2O.
Same goes with a Supercharger.
In fact, using N2O on an engine that already has forced induction is a great idea, IF you know what you're doing.
The nitrous will act as an additional intercooler to cool the charged air before it enters the engine.
Before you even THINK about going with a turbo OR nitrous, you might want to look into reinforcing your engines internals (crank, rods, pistons, block....)

you should drop in the B18c5 first man. no questions asked. then you'll be going WAY over 95 whenever you want, safely. then, worry about some FI.

Thanx for the advice on everything the other day i said i thought i topped my car out at 95mph but i took it out yesterday to spot where peeps race and got it up to like 115mph and with a turbo and N2O i'm gonna kick sum ass.

It's not your max speed that counts but how fast to get there. We'll, unless your running laps at the track.

sicklude i beg to differ dropping in a b18c5 would be a waste of money due to its high compression ratio it would cost way to much to bring the compression dowen and turbo it just get like a b18b or a b20 heck go h22a

I don't know if it would be such a good idea to drop a H22 into a civic if it's a daily driver. Unless your only going to use it as a drag car, its not worth it. The handling won't be as good, and also you'll have to give up your A/C.

hahaha i had a 93 hatch and it wouldnt go over 93 either! i got it to 110 on a long downhill once... anyway nitrous is the perfect compliment to a turbo, not only will the nitrous help as an additional cooler to help lower the air temp going into your motor, but will give u a little more power in the low range ahile your turbo spools, plus the explosivness will help your turbo spool faster. however since either one of the 2 can be very detrimental to a stock engine unless very mildly tuned, running both without beefing up your engine will almost certainly result in catastrophe. specific attention should be paid to your fuel system, upgrading pumps, regulators, lines, injectors, management computers, and itd be a good idea to have a few guages for engine heat (one of the instant digital readouts not the stock one that takes forever to respond) and for your air/fuel mixture to make sure u dont go too rich/lean. plus the ignition should be upgraded because as theres is more boost and nitrous it will be harder and harder for the spark to travel through the compression chamber, upgrading the ignition will make the spark (hopefully) strong enough to be able to ignite the fuel mixture. with a properly tuned fuel and ignition system u should be able to run a decent level of boost and still spray, but the more u run the more perfectly tuned it will have to be. its a good idea to strengthen your internals such as pistons, rods, rings, valves, etc to be on the safe side. supercharged engines can also run nitrous but the same precautions must be taken, and unlike the turbo the nitrous will not cause your supercharger to spool any faster, as it is connected to a belt, but if u have a supercharger u prob dont have any probs with lag anyway.

Originally posted by buh_buh
wow, you can get in the 10's with that minivan? Imagine what you could do with something more aerodynamic and not as heavy. That IS the ultimate sleeper.

hahaha, the reason those vans can dip into the 10's is quite simple... BIG turbo... HIGH boost... and NOS always helps too :)

I would love to see you shoot a STOCK Honda block up w/ 20 PSI :devil:

I AM GOING TO ADD A TURBO AND NOS BUT I STILL HAVE A STOCK DX ENGINE IN IT, I KNOW IT CAN'T HANDLE ALL THAT BOOST SO WOULD IT BE CHEAPER TO SWAP OUT THE ENGINE FOR A STRONGER ONE OR SHOULD JUST BEEF UP CERTIAN PARTS OF MY OLD ONE, I'M ALSO ON A LIMITED BUGET SO LET ME KNOW AND IF I BEEF UP CERTIAN PARTS WHICH ONES DO I NEED TO HOOK UP?

Originally posted by D-Loc
I AM GOING TO ADD A TURBO AND NOS BUT I STILL HAVE A STOCK DX ENGINE IN IT, I KNOW IT CAN'T HANDLE ALL THAT BOOST SO WOULD IT BE CHEAPER TO SWAP OUT THE ENGINE FOR A STRONGER ONE OR SHOULD JUST BEEF UP CERTIAN PARTS OF MY OLD ONE, I'M ALSO ON A LIMITED BUGET SO LET ME KNOW AND IF I BEEF UP CERTIAN PARTS WHICH ONES DO I NEED TO HOOK UP?
first of all, could you stop tying in all caps? Its hurting my brain :bloated: . No matter which engine you get, you have to build it up in order for it to handle high boost pressure. It would probably be better if you did get a swap first, since you have more power to begin with. But before you do anything, you should do a leakdown test on your current engine (only if you plan on boosting on your current one). Then work from there if you plan on boosting on your current engine. Depending on how much you want to boost, that will effect what you have to "beef up" as you would put it. I'm no expert when it comes to stuff like this, but you will probably have to get a new ignition, rods, maybe pistons.

In order to run some serious boost, you really have to know what you're doing. You can't just throw some aftermarket internals at the car, crank up the boost and expect to make a billion HP. Tuning, keeping the motor safe and getting enough fuel into the mixture all come into play. In my opinion, turboing a car can be one of, if not THE best form of forced induction, but because of it's design, it's inherantly the most complicated as well.
If you aren't willing to spend TONS of time researching, asking questions and LEARNING about what TO do and what NOT TO do, then I'd say either build a good N/A motor, or turn to N2O.

However, if you DO plan on going with a Turbo, first, as stated earlier, you're going to want to either do a "Leakdown Test" on your current motor, or go ahead and do an engine swap. If you're going to swap, an iron block would work best (it's stronger), but aluminum can be just about as good.

Next, you're going to have to address the internals of your motor. Those pistons are DEFINATLEY going to have to go. I'd opt for a set of low compression FORGED pistons. They are the strongest, and lowering compression is ALWAYS good when working with a turboed motor. Next, a set of rods are GOING to be needed if you plan to get crazy with the boost. A good set of I-Beam rods should do the trick. And finally, you're going to have to look for a nice strong crank. A forged crank would work best.

Next thing you're going to want to address are those Cylinder Heads. A turbo will work best with a set of free flowing (especially on the exhaust side) heads. A fully ported set of heads can get expensive, but trust me, they are WELL WORTH IT! And make sure you get a good set of head bolts to keep those puppy's on under high boost. A lot of cars making TONS of boost have problems with holding the heads down...

Now, after reading all this, you're probably thinking "god damn, that's a LOT of shit I've got to deal with!"...Well, you're right, and I haven't even BEGUN to get into the fuel requirements that you're going to need. So, if you plan on going with a turbo, it's always best to let a REPUTABLE shop help you in your build-up.

Hope this helped a little bit.
I'll try to add in what little info I can (I'm in no way an expert in the field)...

Originally posted by sparq


hahaha, the reason those vans can dip into the 10's is quite simple... BIG turbo... HIGH boost... and NOS always helps too :)

I would love to see you shoot a STOCK Honda block up w/ 20 PSI :devil:

heh, no that was a joke...that engine would blow in a second with that stuff on

Ford, just curious, but how did you get the MAF to read up to a 200 dry shot? Normally they'll only read to about 175ish...?

are you asking me? if so i suggest you read my previous post

get an engine swap in your car put a b16 in there $1500 then if that isnt enough for you turbo charge it. hell if that still isnt enough then add a supercharger but then you will need bigger fuel injectors. still want more power add nos hell add a double shot. good luck keepin the engine from blowing up. but seriously if you really want power do the engine swap with the turbo maybe the supercharger also butdont add nos unless your car isnt a daily driver.

Get yourself a ame intake, dc header, air filter and true dual exhast that is an easy 40++++hp and it is all easy

Sing this to the Mazda beat...BOOM, BOOM, BOOM!!!