Customx113

hey i have a 1985 camaro with a summit 350 crate engine in it,bored .60 over, a while back i had a leaking problem, the radiator was losing water so i bought some stop leak and put it in there, if fixed the problem for a while come to find out i had a blown head gasket. So i put new head gaskets on it, get it all together, and drive it. It runs fine but it overheats way to fast, I replaced the water pump with a stock oem one, that didnt work, so i figured the radiator was clogged, so i take it to get a acid dip or whatever they call it come to find out the hole radiator was clogged, so i had to get a new radiator, i was told that that would fix it i was happy, the guy said the stop leak might have had a reaction with the 40 below stuff i put in the radiator to make it run cooler, so i put the radiator in and it stilll overheats!! i dont know if the block itself is clogged, I didnt have this problem til i put the stop leak in it, the normal operating temp was around 160 now it jus goes up to 200 and keeps going, im am lost and i dunno what to do, thanks

pre

Get a 165 degree thermostat and make your fan be on all the time. That should drop your temps.

Customx113

hey i will try the thermostat, i already have an electric fan on all the time, thanks

Customx113

tried thremostat didnt work, i think water jackets etc. are clogged any suggestions on how to clean them without pulling apart the block

victimizati0n

If you go to Advance Auto Parts and places like that (even in the Jeg's/Summit books) they have stuff to make your car run 30-40 degrees colder. You just pour it in your radiator, maby you should try that and see how it works.

http://www.jegs.com//cgi-bin/ncommer...96&prmenbr=361

There are many more.

chevota

I gave up on thermostats years ago. Almost every car I've ever had has had one fail, and my sm Chevy had at least 5 fail before I gave them up for good. Another cause of heat is timing, the more retarded the more heat. I run a MDS timing computer with 27degrees initial, if I reduce it to say 15 or 20 I won't get very far. Also, an electric fan will not cut it on my motor, I had to buy one of those gnarly plastic jobs from Flexalite.

PS; I've never noticed a difference with those temp reducers, 40+ or Red Line.

GMMerlin

i had a blown head gasket. So i put new head gaskets on it

When you installed new head gaskets, did you replace the intake gaskets with the type that have a metal shield on one the of the water passages? If so, you may have installed them backwards. The metal shield goes to the rear of the engine.
If installed incorrectly, the water flow to the thermostat will be blocked off (you will get some flow, but not enough to cool the engine) and this will cause your overheating condition.

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Customx113

my intake gaskets didnt have the metal sheild on it, i took it apart and the funny thing was all the water passages were dry they still should have had a little water residue on them, and my buddy tightned my valves too much so i had like 3 bent pushrods badly bent, this would have made the motor work harder, do you think that coulda been the problem cause im plannin on take the motor down to block and gettin it dipped and cleande and the block checked for crackes cause my oil is gray, thanks

Customx113

and another thing my timing chain is loose and the timing jumps around

Customx113

the timing i have set to 25 degrees advance

wolf_in_phx

ive got a 90 iroc with a 350 and mine runs at 220 ive got some overheating probs too i replaced the radiator the thermistat the water pump and ive got 2 electric fans on they kick on when the car gets hot sometimes the car goes to 260 and i start to pull over and the temp drops like 80 degrees in about 5 seconds and ideas whats going on? as far as i know the engine idels at 220 and the fans turn on when ever they feel like it should i make them always on or will they burn out too fast?

89IROC&RS

wow, first things first, stop doing the band aid things. do a cooling system flush, any shop should be able to do it, definately your dealership. it wont be cheap, but will clean all your system out. then they pull the plugs on the block to completely drain all coolant then put in new coolant. that is the place to start. then if you still have cooling problems, your place to look is the radiator, your electric fan shouldnt be runnning all the time. so thats a problem. fix it right, then move on to the things like the Be-cool additives and such.

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ridge_runner

i think the stop leak fucked me. i think it clogged up the block, i went to get the radiator dipped and the guy said it was soo badly clogged that it was like somone poored cement in it,i got a new radiator no fix, so i jus yanked the motor out, cam got wipped anyways and block maybe cracked, o well got 3 other 350 4 bolts, one that i found one the side of the road, dropped off the block at the machine shop yesterday, going 383 stroker, retro fit converting to mechanical roller, round 600 lift came, undecided about the heads, block 40 over, need 10 point cage, and need to stiffin up the chassis, fuckin unibodys, and need to get the rear set up, im lookin to be in the 10s, me and my buddy pulled so much god darn wire out of the car, the old computer and the heater core and a/c stuff, now im thinkin about trannys, i have a 700r4 outa an 87 iroc, its got a shift kit, but i have a th350 that i picked up 4 60 bucks, i have no idea the condition but i have a 3000 stall for it, o boy this is gonna be a fun and costly project

ridge_runner

hmm thats weird i jus noticed ii posted this thread under customx113 i dont even remember havin that user name on here....