......IF YOU KNOW, YOU KNOW......
......IF YOU DON'T, YOU WILL.......


......BRING IT ON ...........


('cos I miss it for one)

Jon.

Here we go ....... pulling the restrictor from the boost solenoid in R32/33 GTR . thats got to be worth 20-30 kw .
Brenhan.

Can you cut metal from a car to lighten it? ie and r31.......


Tinduck this is your Security Thread isnt it... ahah youre gonna be a mess without it.
:bloated:

Will that work on the boost solenoid on the GTS25T as well ?

And by removing the restrictor - do you mean disconnecting the electical connection ? Or is it something else ?


Cheers

i think its only the GTR, never heard of that mod on the other turbo skylines but i could be wrong.

Dave

WOOOHOOOOO!!!!!!
Free mod thread again!!!!!!.....
.....
.....
.....
I knew you couldnt resist Jon!:D

the most enjoyable and useful thread EVER!!!


Rohan.

pull out the hose from the boost solenoid..inside is a small metal washer looking thingy...pull that out and plug the hose back in...there ya go! 12psi :)

I wanted to try this on the SDU free horsepower thread but it had gone well past this type of mod.

If you are happy to put a pod filter on without shielding then you wont mind this mod for a little evening thrash. On the R33's the airbox sits so that the filter is horizontal. If you undo the 4 snaplocks device on the side of the airbox, you can lift the lid up a little. Push all the snaplocks in under the lid, and lower it down. NOw it sits up about 2cm above the filter.

When you plant the foot, cold air arrives via the air snorkel, plus the extra that can be drawn in under the lid.

This is not long term , nor for hot locations, but IT IS FREE !!!!!!!

HELLLOOOOO THERE Big Wide World.!!!!!!!!!!!

.....Free Horsepower,Cheap horsepower, Max gains for Minimum cash.....you all know the score by now......
.....so, SDU dudes, are we all here now?

....then.....LET'S ROCK!!!!!!!

Bren: Hi there dude...

Slip: hehehe you got my number there buddy....life stopped for a while there...;)

Glith: Hi dude and thanx....

ned: can't fault you there mate......it's gotta be good and it's about as free as it gets.......

WELCOME HOME FREE MOD DUDES!!!!!!!

Cheers as always,

Jon.

Hello all, just popping my head in.
Ive found y'all hehe.

Tunduck *tips his hat*

I thought I'd babble for a bit in an attempt to start some kind of conversation cause the thread is dead on this place. I miss SDU

Im getting some work (think welder) done to my intake pipe tonight in order to modify my boost control. Holding off on all my photos until I have everything done.

Also set up a new cold air partition.. again. this time it was from clark rubber. Foam insulation for boat engines... about 1cm thick, compact kind of compound foam with one side covered in aluminium kinda stuff.. reflective shield. Cost $20 for 1m x 1.5m (HEAPS).. cuts with a stanley knife.. took me 15 minutes to make and works perfectly.

Also it seems my boost guage is dodgy. It appears to be the case that I did my 13.8 second quarter on perhaps as little as 10psi. Ordering an a'pexi (yay, pretty blue glow in the cabin) today. Goodbye $308.

I hate to admit it, but Im turned on by rice.

:D

Hope you are all out there making free horsepower.

-Tristan.

I removed the rubber linings at the end of the hood so that to vent out the little extra hot air under the hood, don't know if it really helps to stay cooler, but I can feel much hot air coming out from the end of the hood now, and it costs me nothing but 2 minutes to do it.

Tristan:
Hi there stranger...how ya doing??
....We're waiting for pictures of what you've been up to....:hehe:

Ycee: .....it's gotta help a bit...

laters

Jon.

Flupstar

I saw the material ur reffering to the other day but it seems to thin and an air box might need some extra support. If this material came a little thicker then it might be the go. In any case how did u get the foam to stay firm and in place?

YCEE

Ive seen a GTR that elevated the hood at the hinges so all the hot air escapes, and it looks really cool!

Cold Air Box

If i go to all the trouble of a CAB i think u have to also insulate the rubber hoses from the box itself, as they get so hot themselves that any cooling before the AFM would be lost as the air travels through the pipes.

...don't worry...as long as you are getting cold air IN....is will not have time to heat up as it rushes through your hot rubber pipes.....the main thing is not to be sucking hot air in in the first place..........

laters dudes

Jon.

The foam in question isnt as flimsy as one would think. It holds in place perfectly just by clinging tightly to the pipes it surrounds. I made the partition a little large around the edges and the pressure holds it together quite stiffly. Also, as around a week passed and a bit of heat got to the foam.. the edges of the foam actually moulded to the shape of the engine bay. What also gives it extra strength is the fact that unlike most other people, I didnt cut the foam straight across the top so it would meet the bonnet nicely. I actually folded it over so it covers across the pod, preventing the pod from sucking air through bumps and gaps on the underside of the bonnet.

Just let a little hot air get to this stuff and it just stiffens into shape.. try it :)

I can't believe you guys started this damn thread again. I never could keep up with the last one. Since I have no idea what mods have been listed I just throw out the ones I know of.

Free Boost...Take a prying device of choice and bend your wastegate actuator rod. Use your boost gauge to regulate the amount of bend. To much boost, just unbend the rod a little. Not enough, bend a little more.Trust me it works. It doesn't get better then free.

Extra fuel pressure...put a restrictor in the fuel return line, I have my line bent almost closed. It works, I boost 1.2 through a T4 on stock pump and injectors.

RB20DE cams...They have a longer duration. The grind is very similar to HKS 272. I also use them, it works.

Port and Polish...Do it to everything. I ported my own head and intake. Gasket match everything and if your keeping stock valves then port the bottle neck to 89 to 91 % of the valve size. But don't go more then 91 or you actually lose power.

Thermo Wrap...Wrap your header and turbine. Cover all your exposed piping. Less heat always equals more power.

Cold Air Box...Most of us are decent enough mechanics. If I can make my own then so can you.

Timing...advance it till you'll start to knock. I have an MSD Knock Sensor. I don't recommend doing this without one. They are definatly worth the money.

Alcohol Injection...I'm not going into to details on here cause there are so many. I'll say this, if you don't use it on a forced induction motor your stupid. Email me at nomad923@yahoo.com for more info. I'll be distributing the kits soon.

Well thats all for now. Maybe I'll think of a few more.


WD :devil:

What are those MSD knock sensors worth in AUSD?

It was about $200 US so that about $400 for you guys I think. Go to WWW.SummitRacing.com they have the best prices on fuel pumps, regulators, fans and any other generic part for our cars.

WD

Man looks like most people that drive turbo cars are stupid!

Who are you refering to?
And how does this relate to any one being stupid?

/slip: stupid? explain pleez? :confused: :confused:

Jon

:rolleyes: err WTF

Slip mean this:

Originally posted by WDRacing


Alcohol Injection...I'm not going into to details on here cause there are so many. I'll say this, if you don't use it on a forced induction motor your stupid. Email me at nomad923@yahoo.com for more info. I'll be distributing the kits soon.

.......ooooooohhh, ......Irony......Doh!

(it's getting late)


cheers 4 clearing that up moondog.....we were getting a little confused back there
( I think it's the funny colours of these forums :D )

laters dude

Jon.

haha funny.

Yeah but it seems you don't get much in the kit for $700... I may try making my own kit at some stage..

Ben

Well considering its 700 NZ or Aussie dollars that is actually quite a good deal. You won't get a tuneable kit like the SMC without serious cash.

I meant what I said about being stupid. You guys could be running an extra 5 to 8 psi extra with one of these kits. Thats alot of unused HP just waiting to be harnessed. Hell people waste that much on lame ass B/C's with lots of cool LED's.

WD

Yeah your right. It would be more attractive if the actual casing looked a little better... if I got one I would probably wire the buttons individually.

Do you think you could do is much cheaper if you made one yourself, and does it REALLY need to be adjustable?

Ben

I have almost finished my kit,

It consists of:
bosch fuel pump (second hand) - free
Honeywell pressure switch - $50
Windscreen washing res. - $20
NOS jets x 2 (.26 & .30 for tuning) - $28
NOS fogger - $30
Hose and other bits - $20

I have mounted my container & hoses in front of the radiator so it will keep the water/alcohol cool right up until it is injected.

Doc

Originally posted by Doctor
I have almost finished my kit,

It consists of:
bosch fuel pump (second hand) - free
Honeywell pressure switch - $50
Windscreen washing res. - $20
NOS jets x 2 (.26 & .30 for tuning) - $28
NOS fogger - $30
Hose and other bits - $20

I have mounted my container & hoses in front of the radiator so it will keep the water/alcohol cool right up until it is injected.

Doc
are you guys just talking about injecting NOS? like nos on tap or something? or actually something totally different? (disregard my ignorance)

Not injecting NOS, but injecting alcohol like ethanol, methanol or ispopropyl. I will be mixing alcohol & water as a detonation stopper.

NOS is illegal to have on a car, in AUS anyway, so why not hook up something that is leagal.

Doc

Hey, was just interested 2 know how the wastegate actuator works? Does making the rod going 2 it shorter increase or decrease boost?

Bending the rod to make it shorter increases boost. But make sure you use an aftermarket boost gauge. I'd hate to see someone blow an engine for somthing silly.

WD

sweet as, thought so. how does the actuator work? I'm, assuming tht the rod gets moved in & out, but how does it get moved? or does it not move at all & is just in a fixed position? Just curious:)

the actuator is lifter by vacume pressure, which then moves the arm and open the wastegate.

Ben: vacuum pressure????

hehehe

666: shortening the wastegate actuator rod does indeed keep the wastegate closed for longer,thus generating more boost.....but if you think about it, it will also stop the wastegate from ever opening fully.....can't really be good for the turbo in the long run.....

laters

Jon.

As long as the turbine does not overboost it is the same exact thing as a B/C. No more damage can occur if the boost is relieved at a safe point whether the wastegate is fully open or partially open. If anything it will improve the wastgate creeping open before the desired amount of boost is reached. The stock internal wastegates always creep open causing the turbine to work harder to achieve the desired amount of boost. Once you drive a car with an external wastegate and feel the boost flash you'll know what I'm talking about.

WD:devil:

Originally posted by TINDUCK RACING
Ben: vacuum pressure????

hehehe


Jon.

Hehe oops. not vacuum... I was tired :)

Yeah I want an external wastegate dammit :bandit:

Ah well, back to SDU.........

laters dudes

Jon.