|
|
I need advice, from someone who knows their shit.PFCfutrell 11-03-2001, 11:53 PM My mechanic has told me I have a blown strut, i'll be running into some bonus money pretty soon and will be upgrading my whole suspension setup. I need a knowledgable individual to post a good (sub $1000-$1500) setup including shocks, springs, and struts. I could also use info on a coilover setup if thought to be better than just replacing the above with performance parts. If I do need coilovers than which ones and what else? I already have a good rear sway bar and upper tie bars, my Suspension Techniques springs will probably go to a friend of mine because i'll be wanting more in the way of quality. So if anybody is running a setup that they would recommend, or knows someone that is, please give me the specs so I can adapt it to my 'rex. I have 15" GSR wheels and would like to not lower any more than 1.8"-2". Thank you in advance for all those that give real recommendations ;) PFCfutrell 11-03-2001, 11:55 PM I have a '91 CRX SI with Suspension Techniques lowering springs (1.8") and rear sway bar, front and rear upper tie bars, 15" GSR wheels. kris 11-04-2001, 12:18 AM Dezoris (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?s=&action=getinfo&userid=3206) is the person you want to talk to. He knows his shit prett damn well. :) PFCfutrell 11-04-2001, 12:54 AM I posted this hoping to get a response from Dezoris (hint, hint ;)), anyone else with a good setup is welcome to post suggestions. Worshp 11-04-2001, 05:22 PM What ride do you have? True coilovers are a good thing to have (especially if they are fully adjustable for bump, rebound and they can take a variety of different spring poundages) so if you are looking for a great set up go with something like Tanabe, Tein, Koni, Apexi, HKS etc. I have true coilovers from Fulcrum in Australia...they are great although I think I would prefer a stiffer spring as the fronts are only 260lbs, and the rears are 180lbs. Racing Rice 11-06-2001, 09:52 AM Are you going to race or anything or just street use? PFCfutrell 11-06-2001, 01:38 PM It's a '91 CRX SI with Suspension Techniques rear sway bar and springs, front and rear upper tie bars and 15" GSR wheels. I like what the guy on "www.1fastrex.com" did to his 2nd Gen and i'm gonna use some of his experience to customize my setup. I plan on autocrossing, i'm pretty competetive on the street as well. Racing Rice 11-07-2001, 01:12 PM Originally posted by PFCfutrell It's a '91 CRX SI with Suspension Techniques rear sway bar and springs, front and rear upper tie bars and 15" GSR wheels. I like what the guy on "www.1fastrex.com" did to his 2nd Gen and i'm gonna use some of his experience to customize my setup. I plan on autocrossing, i'm pretty competetive on the street as well. Very interesting... He went with Ground Control and Tokico Illuminas.. I wonder what other setups hes tried? I would have figured that he would have gone with a true coilover setup, but they can be a little on the pricey side. If your wanting to get swaybars and STB's then a True coilover maybe be out of your price range, Nuespeed has really good coilovers as well as Progress, but they will still probably run you over $1000 alone. If you do decide to go with a sleeve I would lean toward ground control. I had Skunkworks coilover sleeves and they very stiff springs not all that great for street driving. I know that Dez will tell you to stay away from sleeves becuase its hard to get your shocks and springs tuned to work correctly with each other. You maybe better off going with Nuespeed springs, or Eibach springs and something like a Koni (yellows) or Tokico Illuminas. Heres a really good site thats full of information:Turnfast.com (http://www.turnfast.com/) Dezoris 11-08-2001, 02:47 AM I am so sorry for taking so long, forgive me :) Racing Rice is right, for race purposes I would not trust coilover sleeves, of any kind, they are not designed for that. Here are my recommendations for simple setups without going with coilovers. If you want to go with a well balanced shock spring comb that wont kill you for everyday driving and will be good on the track here is the first recommendation http://www.tein.co.jp/nrdampe.html http://www.tein.co.jp/img/nr1.jpg The springs are not overly aggressive but the shocks make up for that and with agressive rebound and compression rates. The second recommendation for comfort and for possible track use is http://www.bilstein.com/products/general.html http://www.bilstein.com/products/art/shock_strut3.jpg and these springs, Neupseed sport springs http://www.neuspeed.com/media/GrnSprtspring.jpg I have driven many civics with these setups, actaully I picked it out for a friend and I was amazed at how composed the car was, actually felt smoother than stock but, more aggressive and capable at higher speeds, killed a lot of roll, these would be good for track use as well and you'll only spend about 600-800, at SHOX.com. And the final shock spring combos that I consider rather rough for everyday driving but rather track worthy if you can find the balence is the koni sport http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/images/koni/koni_sport.jpg and one of these two springs Nuespeed sport or race. or Eibach sportline or race http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/images/eibach/eibach_sportline_new.jpg http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/images/eibach/pkprod.jpg Nuespeed sport or race. http://www.dezoris.com/n4.jpg the konis are very stiff dampers, combined with the Neupeed race or Eibach race your car will be very sensitive over bumps and dips, will handle very well on good pavement, great for the track, if you dont want the car so senstive to bumps I recommend the sportlines or Neuspeed sport for a calmer ride. These setups will still require camber kits and alignments. If you are going to go with any type of aggressive setup then I would highly, highly recommend, you take a good look at the cars front end, tie rods/ends, ball joints, control arms, bushings, drive shafts, cv joints, wheel bearings. Because any aggresive setup you have is going to put a lot of stress on those old parts, and before you know it, you have great shocks and springs and a car that creaks, cracks, and is really unsafe. So I would take some of that budget and hold about 3-500 for repairs. On to the coilovers, here are my favorites, all around 1000-1500. For straight race http://www.bilstein.com/products/sspage.html http://www.bilstein.com/products/art/pss9a1a.jpg Tein HR http://www.tein.co.jp/hadampe.html http://www.tein.co.jp/img/ha1.jpg And a lot of people leave out H&R, but they have one of the best balanced race setups, and are proven on Hondas and acuras, namely the Type R, http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/images/hr/honda_coil_fitments.jpg http://www.hrsprings.com/site/products/coilovers.html The only other thing to add as I found when I started, is it is all about your alignment and type of tires you pick. You can have penske race shocks with G sensors, and if your tires eat shit and dont grip, they are worthless, same goes for your alignment. If you dont have a good alignment to accomodate the lowering and new suspension you'll either kill your tires, or lose control or handling. Any questions? kris 11-10-2001, 02:41 AM Damn, Dezoris is the shit :) Twainturbo 11-25-2001, 12:40 AM so dezoris, you wouldnt suggest any sleeve-adaptor coilovers for autocross use? i hear ground control are pretty good, dont they use eibach springs? is it mainly the perch being the weak point that you suggest against them? Dezoris 11-25-2001, 01:23 AM Let me put it this way the GC sleeves are the best ones, design wise. But if you are going to race the car, you want a shock with a threaded body that is a part of it, not a slip. Why, because what ever shock you are sticking a sleeve on was not designed for that. That is my big gripe, I have seen enough compatability problems in my time. When it is your suspension you dont want to fuck around. Twainturbo 11-25-2001, 12:46 PM ahhh.. I see your point now, i can totally see sleeves getting bound up on your shock at just the wrong moment during hard driving rather than a threaded body which is muy expensive. i am in the market for a crx and i plan to a-cross and drive hard on the street, i was thinking of skunks or GC's but now i am thinking of just a good lowered setup, can you recommend a good $600 or so price range setup, i care nothing of ride quality i just want stiff, good handling suspension. i was thinking of h&r race springs, kyb non adj, and ingalls camber kit, what do you think? Ktulu 11-25-2001, 09:48 PM Just out of curiosity, have you ever tried Edelbrock suspension. SCC said they were really impressed with one of their braces and the guys with american cars really like their stuff. Just wandering if their suspension is good quality stuff. Also, on the subject of tires, what do yall think of the nitto 440 series tires. texan 11-28-2001, 08:26 PM Originally posted by Ktulu Just out of curiosity, have you ever tried Edelbrock suspension. SCC said they were really impressed with one of their braces and the guys with american cars really like their stuff. Just wandering if their suspension is good quality stuff. Also, on the subject of tires, what do yall think of the nitto 440 series tires. I've helped install a few Edelbrock suspension parts on a Camaro, they worked great. But consider this... #1- Edelbrock is just getting into suspension modification, and #2 it's not nearly as hard to improve upon domestic setups as it is Honda factory parts. Now I can tell you that for the most part Edelbrock braces and control arms are good, but I don't think their shocks will stand up well to Bilstein or Koni, whose sole business is making seriously good performing shocks. There is an amazing amount of technology in shocks, the Edelbrock bought tech is meant for off road applications and has only been proven to be competitive in races like the Dakar rally. Personally I'd stick with Dezoris's component selection, leave the guinea pig work to someone else. Dezoris 11-28-2001, 08:46 PM Originally posted by Twainturbo ahhh.. I see your point now, i can totally see sleeves getting bound up on your shock at just the wrong moment during hard driving rather than a threaded body which is muy expensive. i am in the market for a crx and i plan to a-cross and drive hard on the street, i was thinking of skunks or GC's but now i am thinking of just a good lowered setup, can you recommend a good $600 or so price range setup, i care nothing of ride quality i just want stiff, good handling suspension. i was thinking of h&r race springs, kyb non adj, and ingalls camber kit, what do you think? The KYB non adjustables are the only part I dont like there, too much compression on those shocks, you'll be flopping around, unless you throw 20+ mm bars front and rear, If you go KYB go AGX. Ingalls is great and so are the H&Rs. think about it Ktulu 11-29-2001, 08:49 PM When I ugrade to new shocks and springs, is it necissary to get a camber kit? If so, how much to these cost? Would it also be a good idea to get a poly bushing kit? Thanks for the help guys. Dezoris 11-30-2001, 01:19 AM Well, I recommend a camber kit front and rear any time you go with a drop, that invloves sport suspension. The reason being is that, you want adjustability, one of the nice things about the double wishbone setups is you can really mess with the camber. I have posted ranges you should follow for it on this board and on my site. From experience you cant tweak the suspensions alignment without a camber kit. You want negative camber, evne if it is a little, and actually it is allowed and within factory spec, this will also allow you to run cheaper tires if you cant afford the best. More neagtive camber means less work on the side wall under heavy cornering loads. I could go on and on about that, but to answer your other question Polyurethane bushings are up to you, why? They are noisy and stiff, personally I think it is a waste unless you race. Hard rubber bushings are a good alternative. I would recommend them especially for the motor mounts and sway bar(s) You want a little flex. Urethane motor mounts, are a no no for someone who does not race (drag) the motor was designed to lift and move a bit, also provides more comfort for the driver, that is why the use soft rubber mounts. Now Hard rubber is the middle ground and you dont need to lube it up like urethane. Your choice though. vBulletin®, Copyright ©2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2009
|