OH NO...not another Scooby!!

'Oh no', I hear you say, not another bloody Impreza.

Sorry guys, yes.

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This is gonna be another 'open' model with full detailing.

So far I have opened up the bonnet and doors and started on the suspension.

I kind of have a thing for working suspension, so here are a couple of pics of the 'real' and working coilovers for the front of the car, one relaxed and one compressed.

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Next will be the rear, keep you posted on the progress.

Richie

Actually, some of us like seeing Scooby's ;)

Can you get some clearer pics of the shocks if possible?

Please keep us posted on your progress, this looks like it will be a fun and interesting build :cool:

Nice to see another full detailed Impreza. I wonder how you made that shocks.
Hope you'll keep us updated with plenty of pictures :D

Can't wait to see it done.

Oohhh yeah!!!

Nothing wrong with another Subaru... :coolguy: can't wait to see some more pics and details on that suspension.

Looks nice, that workin suspension will be hot when it is on the car

So I guess your Silvia project is on the side, or are you working on them side by side?

Can't wait to see both!

Subaru != "too many." ;)

Can't wait for more!! :D What version are you making?

And how do you demonstrate the working shocks? Do you just poke the roof and watch it bounce? :licker:

thats gonna b mean as

COOL!

Hi folks, just a few progress pics for ya'.

Richie.

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Coming along very well!

NICE! whats the deal with the chrome on the hood?

Thanks Guys.

NICE! whats the deal with the chrome on the hood?

Its white metal from the Studio27 engine set, you get a metal bonnet to replace the one that you cut out.

The doors are a similar thing from Renaissance(sp), this time in resin.

Richie

God, I love my job! 3 night shifts to do some modelling:D

Nearly done the undercarriage, now onto door and bonnet hinges and prepare for spraying.

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hmm well first pic i sae the chrome hood i thought it would look good but i dont like it that much, but amazing job on undercarraige!(sp?)

hmm well first pic i sae the chrome hood i thought it would look good but i dont like it that much, but amazing job on undercarraige!(

Its white metal from the Studio27 engine set, you get a metal bonnet to replace the one that you cut out.

Thanks dude, the bonnet gets painted with the rest of the body, gonna be Petter Solbergs 2002 Rally GB car.

Make a Thread ON HOW TO"S with the working shocks man
if ya want......

OK, here's a quick 'how to' for the shocks for anybody who's interested.

I'll start with a crappy picture, this shows the kit part and has the 4 cuts needed and the 3 pieces to be used.

Other bits required are :-

Length of tubing (I use brass) of approx 1mm external diameter.
Length of brass rod that fits nicely into the tubing
Springs (I use MiniZ but a pen spring cut to length should be OK).

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Before I start, here are a few tips you may want to consider:-

1) If possible, practice on a spare shock coz if this goes wrong you could have all sorts of trouble!
2) I personaly make one at a time using the second as a guide for the size of the new one and then the completed new shock as a guide to the second.
3) I also perform only one cut at a time and build it up bit by bit, this way you can adjust cuts or lengths as required.

Wanna go for it? OK then:-

STEP1

Do cut1, removing the shock from the bottom piece (A).
After sanding down the top surface of 'A', use a drill of equal diameter to the tube to make a hole just deep enough to hold a length of the tube fairly securely.
On some models, for example the rear of the Subaru, the upright is either wider than the base or moulded onto the end. In these cases just work something out that best suits the part, as long as the upright can be held securely in some way.

STEP2

Using the suspension part for the other side of the model (the uncut one), measure and cut a length of the tubing that is equal to the original upright (between parts A and B), PLUS enough to fit into the hole you just drilled PLUS half to two thirds of the thickness of part B, the spring support.
This can then be superglued into the drilled hole, being carefull to get it nice and straight.

STEP3

You can now do cuts 2 and 3. This will leave you with the spring support.
Clean it up and using the same drill, do a hole right through the centre.
Again using the uncut shock as a guide, slide the support down onto the tube a super glue into place, being VERY carefull not to block the hole in the tube

STEP4

Spring. As I said, I use MiniZ springs, which when cut in half are just the right length to do two shocks (this depends on the model of course).
Whatever spring you choose to use, just cut it to the same length as the molded spring bit on the kit part, ie to fit between your parts B and C.
After cuting a spring, you should have one flat end and one uneven end (the cut end).
Super glue the FLAT end to the spring support, again being carefull not to block the hole and making sure it is nice and straight.

NOT FAR TO GO NOW!!

STEP4

Cut 4. I didn't mark this on the diagam, but when doing cut 4, I move down the spring slightly and cut. The reason for this is to give an uneven surface, which if guessed correctly, will compensate for the uneven end of the spring. If in doubt, cut a little to low and sand back until you get a surface that sits nicely on the chopped spring.
You then drill a hole, this time the diameter of the brass rod into the centre of this part but not through.

STEP5

Cut a length of the rod that after putting into the just drilled hole, equals the length of the spring (between parts B and C) PLUS about one third to half of the length of the tubing (between parts A and B).
Super glue into the hole in part C.

STEP6

And thats it folks, all that remains is to super glue the top of the spring to part C and you have a real working coilover on you model.

You can then use this new piece as a size guide to the second shock.

One thing I do is to paint as I go along, this makes it take a little longer but if you want to, for example, paint the spring red and the piston of the shock silver, it's much easier.

Hope some of you find this helpfull, at the end of the day no body ever sees it but like a lot that we do, its just nice to know it's there!!!!

Richie

Hi folks, been doing a little work on the interior over the last few days.

Here are the pics :-

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So far have added a few wires, pipes etc and used ref pics to see the pipes for the fuel tank.

Next, engine.

Hope you like it.

Richie

nice:cool:

Hello again, twice in one night, bloody hell.

Have been doing a bit of work on the engine, here it is:-

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Still lots to do, will keep you all informed

Looking good. Nice engine also.

With a few wires and stuff.

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Finally got around to hanging the doors.

Tomorrow......bonnet!

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Awesome!!!! I did not realize that kit came w/ a motor!!!

Awesome!!!! I did not realize that kit came w/ a motor!!!

It didn't! Its the Studio 27 upgrade for it.

Hey UKSupraBoy ; Keep the pics coming. I myself am very interested in this conversion as I am looking at doing the same thing. I am in the process of gathering up all the bits and pieces I need at the moment before I start. Geez you don't realize how many there are out there that you can get, do you, until you start.
How did you end up hingeing the doors in the end and did you have any problems fitting the Ren.... doors as I have them coming in the post at the moment?
Cheers
Tony

Nobby Nuts, good luck with your attempt.

As for the doors, I found a few problems with one side. The inner door panel was a little large for the cut out in the original interior panel but a bit of careful sanding sorted it out. This has been one of the main reasons that I am building the body last.

Another thing to watch if you get the engine kit, is the bonnet/hood. With the new shock tower/strut brace, the bonnet didn't quite close properly. I just very gently, very slightly curved the bonnet over. I also had to sand down the leading edge of the black bit at the windshield base.

For hinging the doors I have used a short piece of tube vertically on the inside, very edge, of the door and some bar that comes in a 'V' from the body work before bending upwards. The tube then slides down onto the wire. This way means that the leading edge goes slightly inside the front wing when the door is opened as it should.

Good luck again matey.

Richie

Thanks Ritchie. Sounds like I am going to have fun with this one.
Regards
Tony

Some great work being done there on that car !
I love the progress and am eagerly awaiting every update!
Great stuff, keep it up !

Olivier

Looking very good. This is definately going to be the most detailed impreza around here.

Ithink I have just about finished the interior. Still got to add headphones and a few little things.

What do you think?
How can I improve it?

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:eek2: A very unique model in progress here, won't see many Scooby's to this level of mod's. :cool:

I love these long weekends at 'work'!

both doors and bonnet now hinged.

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:eek2:

Hi, just some pics to show the current state of the Scooby Doo.


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Hope you like it,

Richie

OH NO...not another super detailed Scooby!! :eek: :cool:

OMG a stunner :cool:

Awesome! Definitely keeping this thread as reference for mine.

Damn, that's tight!

Hi again, hope you're not getting fed up with this.

Thought I would share how I am fixing the bonnet pins. The detail set that I have has an aluminium pin with photoetched bits for the bonnet top. On a closed model these are pretty simple, just shove the pin through the bonnet and stick on. For the open version, however, the pin needs to be attached on a small piece of body work under the bonnet.

The first step was to secure the bonnet in the closed position

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The underside of the bonnet and back of the lights were then taped over being carefull to very slightly over lap the inside of the front wings.

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The bonnet pins were pushed through the tape and bonnet.

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I then used auto body filler (more solid that model stuff) to cover the tape.

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Once the filler had hardened, I very carefully removed the tape and bonnet to leave the filler and pins attached to the inner wings. Once fully hardened, this can be filed/sanded down to give the required result.

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End Result.

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Brilliant solution for the hood pins!

Another update. Guess this will be the last one before the final pics.

Still a few things to do, lots of detailing and cleaning up but I'm pretty happy so far.

Hope you like it.

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Originally posted by UKSupraboy
I'm pretty happy so far.




so am i :D :cool:

WOW that's looking well smart so far!!

Awesome Richie.
Good tips on the bonnet pins. I will definitely keep that in mind when I do mine.
I already have the kit, the decals for Possum Bournes car, The Studio27 DX upgrade kit, a few other assd bits and pieces I thought might come in handy like aerials etc here now and the Rennaissance kit on its way now from Modelcrafts and Hobbys in NZ.
Just need the time to build it.
Cheers
Tony

looking pretty good, i like it