How do I know if I have the factory tow package?

[Erik2002Winnie]

Ive read it did not come with a hitch, so how can I know if I have it.

its an 02 and the tranny dipstick states X in the beginning of the series, but I want to be sure, becasue it has a donut, not a full size spare.

Ive tried Fords Fleet vin thingy, and that did not tell me.

thanks,
in advance.

[wiswind]

I do believe that the easiest way to tell if you have the factory towing package is to look at the front of the radiator......
For the 1996-1998, should be same for newer, someone may chime in and verify.
The non-Towing package will have a power steering fluid cooler that is just a thin pipe, that loops around on the bottom part of the front of the radiator assembly.
The TOWING package windstar will have a cooler assembly that has fins on it with 4 lines connected to it.......one side of the finned unit is for cooling the power steering fluid, the other side is for cooling the transmission fluid.
It is possible that a previous owner added a auxillary transmission cooler, but (unless they got one from a junkyard) it will not look like the factory unit......and will not be the combined assembly that I describe.

[Erik2002Winnie]

Thanks,

On further review i have a PS cooler, one tube in front of radiator, for the trans, just the well in the radiator it looks like.

so.

im looking to tow a popup.

nothing to huge.

looking to do bags on the rear, a legit tranny cooler wiring, and a brake controller. class 3 hitch

am i nuts?

winnies got 120k on it, i dont know if its the original tranny as i bougth it a lttle over 100k, no issues with engine or tranny. fluid looks good, and doesnt stink.

wonder wheres that Phil l guy on here is. he posts here and PUX, and im pretty much planning to rig it out like his.

[phil-l]

Erik2002Winnie -

Hi! Yeah, this is Phil (I also post on popupexplorer.com).

Yes, the Windstar is a remarkably capable tow vehicle when used sensibly and set up properly.

I'll just jump right in here... If you've seen my posts on PUX, you're probably familiar with this - but I'll put it here anyway.

- I'm a big believer in trailer brakes on all but small utility trailers (I have one of those, too). I added electric brakes to my 2500 pound GVWR popup camper, which didn't have them originally, and have been pleased with the project. I recommend the Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller (or similar, quality accelerometer-based controller).

- I added a B&M auxiliary transmission cooler. I looked at buying the OEM Ford cooler - but wasn't terribly impressed with it. The cooler has done very well. That said, I know the tranny is the weak point of the Windstar drivetrain, so I'm anal about maintenance: I change fluid frequently (about once every 10k miles), and now use nothing but Mobil 1 synthetic Mercon V. My approach seems to be working: At about 120K miles, the original tranny has *never* been opened, and it still shifts fine. A side note: The power steering - yet another hydraulic system - seems to get noisy periodically, so I also change that fluid frequently. Once again: It works fine, and has not required any other service.

- The Windstar has soft rear end suspension. The tongue weight of my popup camper is low enough (240 pounds fully loaded for a trip, scale verified) that I didn't feel the need to use a weight distributing hitch. So I added Airlift 1000 spring airbags. They firm up the rear of the van nicely, and give me the ability to adjust ride height and stiffness. The bags are designed to be used between 5 psi and 35 psi. I tend to use 10 psi when not towing (handling when not towing improves noticeably) and about 15 psi when towing. The ride gets harsh if the bags have 20 psi or more; I stay below that figure.

- I grew up with memories of family camper trips - and regular efforts to fix trailer electrical lighting problems. So I was determined to have a trouble-free electrical system for my popup. I added a separate fuse panel in the Windstar for three circuits: One for trailer lighting, one for the electric brakes and one to run the popup refrigerator (which is a high-current draw load). Each circuit has its own fuse (well, I have a self-resetting circuit breaker for the electric brakes).

1999+ Windstars use low-side switching for lighting, so an electronic converter box is required to isolate the van from the trailer and create the correct electrical signals for the trailer. This also means a short on the trailer won't leave the van running dark.

A 3-way refrigerator as commonly found in popup campers draws a lot of current when running in 12V DC mode; mine draws nearly 10 amps. Lightweight wiring can cause strange problems due to voltage drops - so I ran a separate circuit with 10 gauge wire (yes, that's overkill). This circuit is also controlled by a relay - so it's only active when the van ignition is on (so I can't accidentally run the battery down during a roadside stop). I hear people complain about poor 12V fridge performance - but mine works fine. I suspect undersized wiring is the real culprit in such cases.

- Yes, I even replaced the mini 'donut' spare with a full-size spare. The donut spare is not rated for towing.

- Don't forget about mirrors: I have a set of strap-on extension mirrors that allow me to see around the popup camper, which is wider than the van.

I've referenced the pictures of my projects before, but here they are again:

Adding popup camper brakes
Adding Airlift spring airbags to a Ford Windstar
Ford Windstar tranny cooler, wiring and brake controller

One or two more thoughts: Avoid pushing the van too hard when towing. Running equipment near the limit will lead to breakdowns eventually. Pay close attention to everything when towing. If something doesn't seem right - stop and figure it out before pressing on. I'm guessing your family will be in the van; think of safety first.

After about 120K miles my Windstar runs fine and is used for towing regularly. We finished a 2500 mile cross-country trip with the popup camper in August (which took us past Chicago, right near you!). No problems on the trip with the van (well, unless you count two burned-out light bulbs! ). The van will be hauling the utility trailer and a pile of Cub Scout gear for an outing this weekend. Lots of fun!

[wiswind]

Here are a couple notes.....
I bought a "anti-rattle" clip for my trailer hitch.....keeps the receiver from rattling in the frame of the hitch assembly.....
I bought it from "etrailer".
Here is a link to a picture of it...... http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2975...11220610dWeQsF

BRAKES....very important.....I have only towed a utility trailer, but that with gear and 6 youth in my vehicle made a very noticable increase in stopping distance and brake pedal effort.
This past spring, I did a visual inspection of my brakes......all looked good.....lots of pad.....however, I noticed a couple of small stress cracks in one of the front rotors.
So....I replaced the rotors (raybestos "advanced technology") and the pads (Akebono Ceramic).
As my '96, at 215K miles......has seen some use.....and I have not been happy with my brakes from when I bought it in '99 with just under 38K.....I replaced the front brake hoses......from caliper to steel line on frame.
My brakes are MUCH better than they have been the whole time I have owned my van.
I also bleed the brake fluid at each wheel......so I had FRESH brake fluid in the system.
Pictures of brake hose replacement start here.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2918...11220610RQKqXY

Tranny fluid.....I had my transmission replaced in 2001 with a FORD remanufactured unit.....now has 115K miles on it......
I change the fluid every year.....filter every other year.
I have a magnefine inline filter in the cooler line.
I have used Mobil 1 (excellent fluid) now use Redline D4 ATF.
Your power steering system will use the SAME ATF as your tranny (good to change at same time...easy way is to suck it out with a turkey baster and re-fill....make sure that the screen in the resivoir is not clogged with junk (newer windstars than mine) will keep your power steering quiet).
Here is the first in a series of pictures that show the transmission fluid and filter change.
Yours will be pretty much the same.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1503...11220610kYSGCI

I have a auxillary cooler on my transmission also....fluid flows from the transmission, through the in-radiator cooler, THEN through the auxillary cooler, then through the magnefine filter, then back into the transmission.

I would advise you to verify that you have low speed radiator fan operation.
With the motor at idle.......turn the A/C ON.....the radiator fans should come on and STAY ON......if they don't, you likely have a broken low speed dropping resistor for the radiator fans.
In stop and go traffic (very hard on transmission in hot weather....particularly when towing) I set the climate control to a setting that has the A/C ON, so that the radiator fans STAY running whenever the vehicle speed is below something like 40mph......which keeps the transmission fluid MUCH cooler.
Here is the first in several pictures that show the location of the radiator fan low speed dropping resistor for my '96
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2792...11220610xhpbfu

[Fulcrum]

When I bought my 2000 Windstar SEL, I was told I had a towing package. I didn't need to use it until 3yrs later, and then I questioned if I really had a towing package. I called the dealership, and they told me that there has to be 3 things on the van for it to have a "towing package". (A) A Full Size Tire, (B) An Electrical Connector at rear of vehicle w a pigtail given to you by the dealer to plug into it, and (C) an auxillary trans cooler at the front of the vehicle. Sure enough I had all 3. The auxillary trans cooler could be seen through the front facia (bumper) sitting below the radiator.

For my first trip I pull a pop-up camper too all the way from Detroit Michigan to Key West Florida and back. My wife & 3 kids when allong too, and I had no problems.

Then later 3 months later the trans failed back at home. First time, but not last. The trans is a very bad design. VERY VERY VERY BAD. It has since failed a total of 3 times. I found a shop in Royal Oak, MI that has lifetime warrany for transmissions (RC Transmission).

Side note: For the Windstar, Ford used the Taurus Trans. Yes, you guessed it, I owned a Taurus too. The trans went out twice in that vehicle. These are the only two vehicles I've ever owned that had problems with the trans. I'd be sour on Ford, but I've owned other Ford vehicles without any trans problems.

[phil-l]

Fulcrum -

Sorry to hear of your troubles.

As it turns out, the transmission used in '00 Windstars is improved over previous models, so I consider your experience to be somewhat unusual. I've read many transmission horror stories from the early Windstar years.

That said, this era of Windstar tranny is sensitive to fluid: It must be a quality fluid (I personally recommend nothing but Mobil1 synthetic Mercon V ATF) and changed frequently (I personally recommend it be changed *far* more frequently than the manual calls for, particularly when towing).

As I understand it, the transmission was greatly improved again in either '02 or '03 models (and continuing in the Freestar), but I have no direct experience with those transmissions.

When I hear of multiple failures after a rebuild, I suspect a problem with the rebuild process. I put more emphasis on a top quality shop with a golden local reputation than a lifetime warranty.

Meanwhile, at 125K+ miles, my tranny is still working fine - never having been opened.

Hmmm... That reminds me: I suspect I'm due for another change. Time to stock up on Mobil1 Mercon V again...

[MrCreosote]

Originally Posted by Fulcrum

Side note: For the Windstar, Ford used the Taurus Trans. Yes, you guessed it, I owned a Taurus too. The trans went out twice in that vehicle. These are the only two vehicles I've ever owned that had problems with the trans. I'd be sour on Ford, but I've owned other Ford vehicles without any trans problems.

When I had my 2000 Cargo Windstar trans rebuilt, I learned from the rebuilder that the Tarus SHO had a special heavier duty trans. Stuff like where there were 5 clutch discs, they had 6.

But what is really bad about the transmission is the front pump. I'll never understand why automatic transmissions aren't designed with a pump that will not wear out. I mean that pump is the heart of the transmission and when you start losing pressure, nothing works right, wears more, and stuff can break from poor shifting characteristics.

[wiswind]

FORD, as well as other companies, has gone around in circles with replacement transmissions due to crud from the blown transmission lodging in the transmission cooler.
I have read that it is STRONLY recommended that the transmission cooler be backflushed with pure transmission fluid.....and flow be verified.
If the cooler is restricted due to crud.....then you will only overheat the new transmission.
Also, the crud in the cooler can contaminate the new fluid.
It is also strongly recommended that a inline filter, like a magnefine filter be installed in the cooler line that flows INTO the transmission, so that any crud that works loose in the cooler will be caught by the Magnefine filter.
Also, the Magnefine filter filters down to 30 microns, whereas most internal filters go only to 80 microns AT BEST.....and that is when a true filter media is inside the filter cartidge inside the transmission (as is the case with the windstar).

I also mention in a earlier post in this thread about verifying that the radiator cooling fans work at low speed.......they should be ON at low speed and STAY on whenever the A/C is activated.....and you are moving below something like 20 mph.
When in stop and go traffic, if you activate the A/C, then the fans STAY running, constanly cooling the transmission fluid.....particularly if you have the axillary cooler....but also if you have only the in-radiator cooler.
Stop and go traffic in hot weather while towing is super hard on the transmission as far as heat goes.