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Old 04-07-2008, 02:25 PM   #1
94metroxfi
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Cylinder Valve Job :)

Well I am doing a valve job on head. Anything I should do on Lower end now?

Oil has not been a problem, nor any smoke, so I am not worried about rings

***hopes***

What do you all use to clean up the engine etc? Outer and pistons etc.

Trying to get rid of old oil leak gunk and of course carbon build-up on pistons.
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Old 04-07-2008, 02:54 PM   #2
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Re: Cylinder Valve Job :)

Hello, First of all do you plan on keeping the rig? If so now's the time to re-ring and replace your rod and main bearings. Just did all that to my 92 xfi. Besides my little episode with the oil restrictor which i fixed with help from the forum. Its all brand new runs like champ. Parts dinosaur fixed me up with the re-ring kit, full gasket set, new oil pump, and the bearings (did not need a new water pump just did that not long ago) for 220.00 delivered right to the house. Get out the digital camera take lots of photos while doing rebuild. They are pretty simple to work on (KEEP THINGS CLEAN). Good Luck!
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:18 AM   #3
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Re: Cylinder Valve Job :)

Use Orange Blast cleaner to clean up the greasy parts.
http://www.glblast.com/products/Prod...px?ProductId=3

Use Seafoam to clean carbon deposits. soak parts directly in it.

http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTech.htm
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Old 04-08-2008, 04:54 PM   #4
DOCTORBILL
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Re: Cylinder Valve Job :)

I did my rings myself....

"NOT the end of my '93 metro...Life after death! RINGS" posted my myself
with pictures and tons of "Blah, blah...."

8/30/2006 to 4/2/2008

My Metro (The Phoenix because it arose from the ashes...) now runs like new
and gets 49 mpg in the summer.

The oil does not turn black even after 3,000 miles with the new rings!

Have a look if you like.

DoctorBill
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Old 04-08-2008, 07:25 PM   #5
way
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Re: Cylinder Valve Job :)

My understanding from having read other threads including DoctorFrankenstein's Monster thread () http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...my+%2793+metro

is that if you do the valves, you better do the rings too at the same time or you'll have to pull everything apart again to do them after you start blowing smoke.

Hope this helps!
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96 Geo Metro LSi 1.0 L, 5 sp, 1025 miles (1649 KM)

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Old 04-08-2008, 08:08 PM   #6
94metroxfi
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Re: Cylinder Valve Job :)

Well to be honest, I do not know if I can do this myself. I have the fear of messing up the whole block and being left without a running vehicle.
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Old 04-08-2008, 08:30 PM   #7
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Re: Cylinder Valve Job :)

Well to be honest, I do not know if I can do this myself. I have the fear of messing up the whole block and being left without a running vehicle.
YOU gotta figure the car will be down for atleast a week & if your not comfurtable with doing yourself then i would'nt advise taking on a job like this
how many miles on engine??if your in the 100k + then rings would be recemended.GOOD LUCK!!
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Old 04-08-2008, 08:44 PM   #8
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Re: Cylinder Valve Job :)

Hey man, read DOCTORBILL'S thread. You sound just like him when he first thought of tackling this.

A lot of guys here recommend a JDM (Japan Direct) engine swap too. They said they've had good luck with them and for the money, it's easy and probably only a little more expensive. I don't know where you're at but if you're on the west coast, crvett69 might be able to let you know where to buy. If not, maybe check your yellow pages for a JDM dealer.
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Old 04-08-2008, 10:46 PM   #9
94metroxfi
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Re: Cylinder Valve Job :)

Well everyone, I think after reading through Dr.B's Thread, I am going to give this a go. I hope you are all ready for my stupid questions...

Thanks,

Mike
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:26 AM   #10
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Re: Cylinder Valve Job :)

Now that is the spirit!! We'll be here.

-MechanicMatt
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:52 AM   #11
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Re: Cylinder Valve Job :)

OK....I can't let this go....Doctor Frankenstein (pronounced Fraankensteen!)
has to check in !



Yes! When I first contemplated doing just the Head, I was scared to death!

So I got the head off and found out it was "simple as pie" and wondered why I was so scared...

Then someone suggested I do the rings too...and then I had the Hershey Squirts!

I had to convince myself that if I didn't do the Rings, that I'd have a junker anyway!

So I just wailed into it and found it was also "simple as pie" - "a piece of cake"...

The biggest hassle was renting a proper cylinder reamer (they are not all the same!)
and then buying a honing tool and ordering the rings and rod bearings and finding out
how to lubricate them during installation (motor oil).

Be careful not to scratch the rod bearing surface on the crankshaft while
taking the pistons out and reinstalling them.

For God's sake - do not wash the cylinders out with water after honing them!
I did that and regretted it!
The crankshaft rod bearing surface will rust in just a few hours if wet!
Mine did! I am still hoping that that won't wreak havoc on my rod bearings in time....

Work on concrete if you can - I worked over dirt & gravel. Jack the vehicle up
high on Jack stands with blocks or logs under the vehicle in case if falls off the
jack stands.
That always had me scared - I imagined myself being crushed...whimp!

Read all the threads on this forum that pertain to Rings and the Head...they help a lot.
Crvett69 was a great help. He knows these engines inside and out.

Getting the pistons back in with the new rings was difficult the first piston, but
as you learn it gets easier.

Yes. I know exactly how you feel. Like sex the first time - only this you won't mess up!
Just use plenty of lubrication and all will slide right into place!

Go slow - think about what you are doing - keep everything CLEAN -
Organize the parts coming out of the block (pistons 1, 2 and 3 parts) - think!

Take digital photos of the parts, where they originated from, etc and if you get
cornfused, you can use the photos to get reoriented. It helped me!

If I did the rings, anybody can do the rings....

DoctorBill (Frankenstien?)
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Old 04-09-2008, 06:01 AM   #12
94metroxfi
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Re: Cylinder Valve Job :)

Cylinder is at shop now, new valves, guides, grind, polish etc. What is everything I should order from Parts dinosaur now? for the lower end rebuild?

Mike
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:26 PM   #13
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Re: Cylinder Valve Job :)

Are you going for Stainless Steel exhaust valves at the Head Shop?

Shucks had everything I needed, some had to be ordered (3 days).

Rings ~$50
Connecting Rod Bearings (good idea to replace now also) ~$40
New Head Bolts ~ $30

A set of feeler guages to measure the Ring Clearance to check if your cylinders are
too worn for a standard Ring Set.

A tube of Permatex Anti-Seize compound (!) ~ $5

Buy a "complete gasket set" from the Head Shop - if they will give you a good
deal on it - Mine was ~$50 - includes everything needed to replace the head and
manifold gaskets....

New PCV valve ~$5

Rent a cylinder reamer - ask for a new cutter bit to be installed before accepting it.

Buy a cylinder honing tool (Harbor Freight?)

Buy a ring compressor to re-install the rings.

You can get the old rings out and new ones in without a ring spreading tool - read my thread.

Buy some clean rags!

Keep clean rags and a roll of paper towels around to keep the cylinders and
pistons free
of abrasive dust.

That is all I can think of right now...

DoctorBill
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Old 04-09-2008, 03:55 PM   #14
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Re: Cylinder Valve Job :)

While you have this engine tore down this far, you might want to consider replacing the water pump right away.
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Old 04-09-2008, 05:32 PM   #15
94metroxfi
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Re: Cylinder Valve Job :)

Here are the items I plan on replacing. Tell me if you think I will need to do more/less.

Pistons, Rings, Rod Bearings,Main Bearings, Thrust Bearings, Head Bolts, Timing belt, Water Pump, New Valves ( Exhaust only ), Valve Guides, Valve Locks, Valve lifters, Timing belt tensioner bearing, New oil pump, front seal.

Head is done, valve seat grinded, trued.

I am going to pull the oil pan tomorrow and start removing the pistons.

****wish me luck ***

Mike

Will post pictures so you get a good understanding where I am currently at
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