1997 Chev Silverado want start cold

etbill52 · 12-07-2007, 03:29 AM

I have a 1997 Silverado 350 V-8, it has got to where it want start when cold
I can prime it with a small amount of gas and it starts and runs good, and will also start when warm. When cold it cranks and try to start but wont.
Do I need a new fuel pump? You can here the pump come on when i turn the key on, but I don't think it is getting enough gas. Thanks

J-Ri · 12-07-2007, 04:50 PM

Check the fuel pressure.

TBI or CFI?

2000CAYukon · 12-07-2007, 07:17 PM

95 was the last year for TBI. 97 is CFI.

//2000CAYukon

etbill52 · 12-10-2007, 08:47 PM

Thanks for the help, The problem was the battery. The one in the truck would turn the motor good but wouldn't start. The battery that was in it was not the right one, so I got new battery problem fixed. (and I typed in a 1997, it is a 1996) Thanks for the help

etbill52 · 01-04-2008, 10:33 AM

I thought I had this problem fixed, but after the truck sits for a week or 2
it still won't start right. If I turn the key on and off cranking the motor it will start, but takes awhile. I can here the fuel pump come on when I turn the key on. So I guess I need to get a pressure gauge and check the fuel pressure. My questions are: Do I need to check it with motor cold, or warn up, engine running of off, And what PSI should it read. I sure do dread replacing a fuel pump

Thanks for any help on this....Bill

2000CAYukon · 01-04-2008, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etbill52

My questions are: Do I need to check it with motor cold, or warn up, engine running of off, And what PSI should it read. I sure do dread replacing a fuel pump

Thanks for any help on this....Bill

Yes. Check cold engine off with ignition on. Check with engine running. Check what is does when you turn the engine off (it will drop a little but should hold pressure).

You need 60 - 65 for starting. Running should be around 60 or higher.

//2000CAYukon

etbill52 · 01-04-2008, 10:17 PM

Thanks for your help, I will get a guage and check the pressure like you said
I will post back on what the pressure's is
Thanks again.... Bill

horse482 · 01-04-2008, 10:40 PM

I had a similar problem with a '97 and it ended up being the coolant temp sensor was telling the ecm the engine was warmer than it really was. Replaced the sensor and fixed the problem.

etbill52 · 01-05-2008, 09:21 PM

Update: I went and got a pressure guage, they gave me the wrong one wouldn't fit on the fitting on the truck. But I also got and replaced the "Coolant Temp Sensor" it started right up, and it has sit for over a week in this cold weather. Never thought it would have anything to do with it. Back in the 60's when I worked on engines, the sensor just worked the heat hand inside

Thanks everyone for your help, I'm sure glad I joined this fourm, I think people on here are great. And by the way I have 2 more vehicle's to ask question about

Braomi · 01-28-2008, 02:55 AM

where do i locate the coolant temp sensor on a 98 suburban ?

tempfixit · 01-28-2008, 07:45 AM

This site shows the location of the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor).
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

Good Luck

etbill52 · 01-29-2008, 11:53 AM

When I started this Thread I typed in 1997, it is a 1996 Chevy Silverado 350 (5.7) I have a car and van that is 1997 guess I though the truck was to. sorry about that:

Anyone that has read the post can see I thought I had it fixed, But still have same old problem. This is what I did yesterday, went and got a fuel pressure gauge, but it on the test port, turned the ignition on pressure went to 50 psi. I replaced the fuel filter, tried again and the pressure was 53 psi. with ignition off pressure drooped to about 50 psi. I turn the key on and off a few times until I got it started, by ribbing the engine up the pressure went to 60 psi. after it run for 1 or 2 minutes, I turned the engine off, let it set not running for a while turned the key back on pressure went back to 60 psi. and would start every time I tried it. One thing we did notice was if we turned the key on real slow just as the ignition came on the pump would come on, and just before the starter start to turn the pump would come on again.
I'm getting more and more confused every time I work on this thing. Do anyone have an ideal? Fuel Pump, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Relays or Electric? Anyone with any help?

tempfixit · 01-29-2008, 06:44 PM

Maybe check your fuel pressure at fuel filter location, this would show if there is blockage in fuel line.

MT-2500 · 01-30-2008, 02:53 PM

The only true test on a fuel pump is to check the direct fuel pressure from fuel pump.
At the line from tank to fuel filter.
A quick test is to block off the return line and see if fuel pressure comes up to 75-85 lbs.
But do not run the pump at full pressure very long.
Also when testing fuel pump and pressure you need to tape a gauge to outside windshield or outside mirror and drive it on the road for 20 -30 minutes
until the pump gets has run a while to check for a pump fading out after hot.

Hard to start cold or hot and fuel pressure testing guide lines.
Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
If pump has full pressure with return line blocked and low pressure without it blocked most usually the fuel pressure regulator is leaking or not holding pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak in system.
Post back fuel pressure readings.

etbill52 · 02-01-2008, 09:20 AM

Thanks for your reply, we are going to try checking this over the weekend,
I and my son-in-law have looked and on the return line we have not found any part off the line that is rubber, unless it is on top of the tank. We are going to drop the tank, I used to get lawn mower gas out of the tank, I used a small hose that would sometimes get caught on the flap going in the tank, and it would shave small strips of the hose off. Do you thank the pump could have sucked some of the stuff in it? When we pull the tank I'm going to clean it out good. I will post back on the finding. Thanks

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