95 Blazer wont start

95GMCJimmySLE · 08-08-2007, 11:50 AM

ok, I'm helping a friend who has a 95 Blazer with a 4.3L Vortec engine. Everything is exactly the same as my girl 95 Jimmy.

Anyways, 7-8 months ago his car had a problem over heating so he just said screw it and left it sit. I just assumed he sold it, so when I went over there (just recently) I asked him about it and he said he felt is was the head gasket. So we decided we would go ahead and replace it. He tried starting it up to move it into the garage but it wouldn't start. So we figured would tackle that after the head gasket. There was some fluid in cylinders 5 and 6 as well as a clogged coolant passage in the driver side head. Everything has been put back together and cleaned up. But now we are back to a car that isn't starting.

Things replaced....
head gaskets
intake manifold gaskets
valve cover gaskets
thermostat
water pump (found it was leaking)
coolant
air filter
oil
oil filter
spark plugs
spark plug wires
ignition rotor
distributor cap

we are thinking we may need to double check and set cylinder no.1 back to TDC and make sure the distributor and rotor are aligned correctly.

There is spark to each plug, we pulled the spark plug wires one by one and checked.

The fuel pump relay is clicking and the fuel pump is priming. We sprayed some starting fluid into the throttle body just to make sure it wasn't something like it wasn't getting fuel. When we did this, there was a few faint pops that came out the exhaust, don't know if that means anything.

The engine cranks and cranks but it just won't fire and start running.

Any ideas as to what we should check to try and get this car running?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

MT-2500 · 08-08-2007, 05:10 PM

No 1 check.
make sure engine is at TDC compression stroke and rotor pointing to no 1 spark plug wire.
Old type dist cap or newer flat top job?

95GMCJimmySLE · 08-08-2007, 07:58 PM

It's a distributor cap with the plug connections on the side.

When I was looking online it said to turn the crank until you feel air push from cylinder no.1 spark plug hole. We did this.

Then it said to line up the roll pin hole/dimple/arrow on the distributor shaft. We did that.

Then it said to line up the drive tab in the oil pump with a long screw driver. So we did.

Then installed the distributor into the engine making sure it was still aligned.

Thinking back now though, I don't think the rotor was pointing at the cylinder no.1 wire which makes sense that it should since cylinder no.1 is now at TDC.

Did we in fact do this wrong? If so, should we get in to TDC again and realign the distributor so the rotor is pointing towards the no.1 wire? What still makes me wonder is the fact that the car wouldn't start even before we took anything apart.

Also, is there a better way of setting cylinder no.1 to TDC?

MT-2500 · 08-09-2007, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 95GMCJimmySLE

It's a distributor cap with the plug connections on the side.

When I was looking online it said to turn the crank until you feel air push from cylinder no.1 spark plug hole. We did this.

Then it said to line up the roll pin hole/dimple/arrow on the distributor shaft. We did that.

Then it said to line up the drive tab in the oil pump with a long screw driver. So we did.

Then installed the distributor into the engine making sure it was still aligned.

Thinking back now though, I don't think the rotor was pointing at the cylinder no.1 wire which makes sense that it should since cylinder no.1 is now at TDC.

Did we in fact do this wrong? If so, should we get in to TDC again and realign the distributor so the rotor is pointing towards the no.1 wire? What still makes me wonder is the fact that the car wouldn't start even before we took anything apart.

Also, is there a better way of setting cylinder no.1 to TDC?

No That is the quickest and easy way.
Or you can pull valve covers and watch your intake and exhaust valves.

The flat top caps will throw you for a loop on rotor pointing if lookng from the top of them.

If you look at the bottom of the cap the wires cross over every which way.

Here is the proper way to set it after you get engine on TDC compression stroke.
The one where you can feel it pushing out air.

And the just turn it up to TDC.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/ga...hp?photo=51302

95GMCJimmySLE · 08-09-2007, 11:35 AM

hmmm.... I almost want to say thats how it was set the first time but I don't recall for sure. I know thats not how we had it set this time around. We'll have to give this a shot today.

When the air is pushed from the cylinder, does that mean the cylinder is still on it's compression stroke or does that mean it has completed the compression stroke and is either at or past TDC? I just want to make sure I understand how to set TDC.

I'm used to Honda's where there are alignment marks for TDC and I can easily tell when cylinder no.1 is at TDC.

MT-2500 · 08-09-2007, 11:59 AM

When air starts pushing out it is coming up on compression stroke.
When you first feel pressure coming out just turn engine on up to TDC on your timing mark.
Turn it by hand with a socket and wrench on crank pulley after you feel air starting out.
The set dist as per in picture.
After you get it started and running you will need to set chamshaft retard with a engine capable scanner.
Good Luck
MT

95GMCJimmySLE · 08-09-2007, 12:04 PM

oh, so there is a TDC mark? Is it located on the crankshaft pulley? I'm sure I'll find it but figured I would ask anyway.

also, how do you set camshaft retard? Do you need some sort of special scanning tool?

MT-2500 · 08-09-2007, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 95GMCJimmySLE

oh, so there is a TDC mark? Is it located on the crankshaft pulley? I'm sure I'll find it but figured I would ask anyway.

also, how do you set camshaft retard? Do you need some sort of special scanning tool?

Look on timing cover housing.
The crank damper will have straight mark for no 1 cylinder that should line up with the TDC mark on timing cover.

95GMCJimmySLE · 08-09-2007, 12:27 PM

ah, ok. Thanks, I'll update later after we get a chance to reset it and see if it fires up.

95GMCJimmySLE · 08-10-2007, 07:50 AM

ok, we finally got it started last night.

It's a little hard to start for some reason but once it's started it runs nicely. Doesn't sound like it's missing or anything.

Any ideas why it may be hard to start?

It has been sitting for about 6 months. He had the battery charged and tested before we started and they said it was fine.

MT-2500 · 08-10-2007, 08:40 AM

First thing the dist needs zeroed in by setting the camshaft retard on a engine capable scanner.
Were the valves adjustable or just tighten down?
How is the fuel pressure?
Good hot blue spark to plugs?
Does the engine crank over good or slow?
Any check engine lights?

Is it hard to start cold or hot or both?

sneakers98 · 08-13-2007, 05:07 AM

Dear 95GMCJimmySLE,

My name is James and I am trying to help my friend Dennis with his 95 Jimmy 4x4. We are also trying to set the timing. Below is a quote of your post. I don't fully understand the parts that I underlined. Please point me to the online source where you were reading about the arrow on the distributor shaft. I've been reading the Hayes Manual and don't remember reading about that. Also, how did you know 'where' to set the oil pump drive tab. What I mean is, what orientation? I understand that you use a screwdriver to turn it.

Thanks for your help.

Here is my post: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul....php?p=4897818

Quote:

Originally Posted by 95GMCJimmySLE

It's a distributor cap with the plug connections on the side.

When I was looking online it said to turn the crank until you feel air push from cylinder no.1 spark plug hole. We did this.

Then it said to line up the roll pin hole/dimple/arrow on the distributor shaft. We did that.

Then it said to line up the drive tab in the oil pump with a long screw driver. So we did.

Then installed the distributor into the engine making sure it was still aligned.

Thinking back now though, I don't think the rotor was pointing at the cylinder no.1 wire which makes sense that it should since cylinder no.1 is now at TDC.

Did we in fact do this wrong? If so, should we get in to TDC again and realign the distributor so the rotor is pointing towards the no.1 wire? What still makes me wonder is the fact that the car wouldn't start even before we took anything apart.

Also, is there a better way of setting cylinder no.1 to TDC?

MT-2500 · 08-13-2007, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sneakers98

Dear 95GMCJimmySLE,

My name is James and I am trying to help my friend Dennis with his 95 Jimmy 4x4. We are also trying to set the timing. Below is a quote of your post. I don't fully understand the parts that I underlined. Please point me to the online source where you were reading about the arrow on the distributor shaft. I've been reading the Hayes Manual and don't remember reading about that. Also, how did you know 'where' to set the oil pump drive tab. What I mean is, what orientation? I understand that you use a screwdriver to turn it.

Thanks for your help.

Here is my post: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul....php?p=4897818

First thing you need to start a new thread or post.
When you hijack someone else's post it gets confusing.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...45#post4820845

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...wthread&f=2072

Learn how to start a new thread and give us all of the info on it.
And some one will help you.
Engine size and engine code and flat top or old style dist.
PCM or VCM computer system?
MT

POST REPLY TO THIS THREAD