Really LOUD Knocking/Timing???

[tony4x4nc]

I have a 95 Rodeo 3.2 6. I have been reading a lot about the famous ticking.........I've used seafoam, ATF, Engine Flushes, 0W-30! I think the valve ticking is gone....now I have this really loud noise that sounds like its coming from the bottom of the engine when your laying under it aned sounds like its coming from the top when your over the engine. I recently changed the timing belt + Tensioner! I tore it down three times trying to make sure I had timing right (PITA) My timing is showing up as being about 3-4 inches past the timing marks on the timing cover......Is that to much? What should the timing be on these engines.....It's not in the chiltons manual. The engine also turns over about three times before it starts. The noise rises and falls with engine RPM and is always constant......no off and on. Could the timing being to far advanced cause knocking from my pistons? Can theses engines throw rods? Even worse what would a bad bearing sound like? Any help appreciated.........truck is embarisinglly loud!

[Ramblin Fever]

What oil filter are you using?

Timing is automatically set at time of new timing belt. Wonder if you're off a tooth or two.

[tony4x4nc]

Fram Tough Guard........How would a filter cause an engine knock like this? So i assume the timing is supposed to be on the little scale of 0-20 degrees? Mine is waaaayyyyy past that. Could the ignition sparking before the piston is at TDC cause piston slap that loud? I dont remeber if I checked to see if #1 was at TDC before I installed, but all the marks were lined up if its worth n e thing without #1 at TDC. The timing belt I bought didn't have two lines and a dotted one....it only had two solid lines. Im going to the Honda dealership in a few minutes to buy an OEM TB........I dont want to tear it apart again and adjust timing belt if the sound i'm hearing is a Main bearing. Waste of money! Has anyone EVER heard of having timing so advanced it sounded like rod knock?

[Ramblin Fever]

I can tell you when my timing was off - jumped a tooth due to failing waterpump (which I HIGHLY recommend you replace while you're there as well) - it very well sounded like a rod knocking.

What had happened was the waterpump was freezing up, causing the timing belt to jump a tooth, weakening the timing belt tensioner - it's the tensioner that can make the engine sound like it's throwing a rod.

So, double check everything.

AND - BTW, get that Fram filter off as soon as possible, Fram's are the leading cause of ticking on these engines - not necessarily harmful, but a Fram does not filter the oil to the extent that these engines need to be filtered. And there are much better filters for around the same price - give or take $1 or so.

I use Napa Gold on my Rodeo with excellent filtering results.

But, that doesn't mean I've never used a Fram before - I was a heavy fram user for years, just never on the Rodeo, always made it tick.

[tony4x4nc]

Purrs like a kitten!!!!! Changed the timing belt to the OEM........a lot easier to line up than the replacement I bought. Water pump and tension and pulley's were all changed previouslly. There is no more turning over twice tog et her started. Fires right up. There is still a slight ticking but nothing like the knocking that was thee. Going to switch the Fram filter this weekend. Napa Gold I've heard is pretty good. Thanks for your help.........was debating selling, "The Green Goblin" thought she had spun a bearing! Thanks again! Timijng still isn't where I think it should be but I have my power back and engine starts promptly. Whick cyclinder should I be checking timing on? Book says number 2 cylinder is at TDC when timing is correct. Do i check number 2 or number 1?

[tony4x4nc]

Ok so today the noise came back.......I changed the oil and used 5-30 Mobil 1 with a Bosch oil filter. Also added some lucas oil additive. The noise is back. Not nearly as loud as it was. What does a spun bearing sound like and how can I tell if it's a spun bearing without tearing the oil pan off?

[Ramblin Fever]

Personally, I hate to say this, but one of the worst things, IMHO, is to run engine flushes on higher mileage engines, loosens WAY too much stuff all at once - this could have caused bearing issues by clogging the oil gallies.

The bottom-end of these engines are built like iron, however, they generally only throw a rod if it's ran out of oil at some point.

The BEST combination for these engines, personally from my experience, is Valvoline Maxlife 10w-30 or Rotella synthetic 5w-40 with a Napa Gold filter.

Mobil 1 is famous for causing an engine to be louder then normal, according to a very informative oil forum/website bobistheoilguy.com - doesn't mean it harms it, however.

The ONLY two filters I can use on my engine; i.e. no ticking - Napa Gold and Isuzu OEM filter

[tony4x4nc]

I've done three flushes in the past month changing the oil 3 times.....Do you think thats enough to get everything out? THe truck has 158,000. It sounds as if its coming from the bottom of the engine.......Just want to be sure. (Would be really ticked If I pulled the engine and it was someething else) Does a bearing change sounds at higher RPM's or is a constant. There seems to be no power loss. THe truck doesn't burn oil. I'm racking my brain trying to figure out what is going on. I'm considering selling it becasue the noise annoys me. I can only hear it with windows down and music off. I just want the thing to be quiet. What else can I do to eliminate the bearing?

[surferfletch]

How old is the tensioner? I know you said it was changed previously.

[Ramblin Fever]

Sorry, but I can't agree with you having a bearing issue. Typically bearing issues generally lead to using oil at a great rate of speed, and loss of power - of which you have neither.

Can I ask you if you are the original owner or is it a recent purchase? Reason I ask, is the Isuzu engine IS a noisey engine in general, however, if your's has gotten noisier, it could very well be due to the summer/heat, i.e. maybe it needs a slightly thicker oil.

This engine will NEVER be 100% quiet, they are not designed to be quiet; your typical Isuzu engine will sound somewhat like a sewing machine, some are much louder then others, but it will still be there.

If you have removed your timing belt tensioner - even if it is new - more then once while figuring out the timing belt, it'll probably need replaced again. Use OEM only parts.

Typically if an engine is clogged/sludged, you do NOT want all of it being cleaned out in short order - this is not good for the bearings.

I can tell you that when I changed my timing belt, tb tensioner, and waterpump, my truck quieted back down IMMENSLY! However, there's still a light tapping sound that will never go away, but it's much quieter then a much newer Pathfinder I was sitting beside the other day.

[tony4x4nc]

I changed the tensioner about two weeks ago and have only pulled i once since I put it on. Still think i need a new one? I got it off ebay so i dont think its OEM. Thanks ramblin for the info. I purchased the truck in December with all the bad weather we got in Denver this year. Changed tranny fluid/filter, oil changes and flushes every 600 miles for the first month. the again just recetnly when I noticed the engine getting louder.

[Ramblin Fever]

Ok, thinking of something else here since you mentioned living in Denver.

Where do you get your gas & what octane are you using?

[tony4x4nc]

Get gas just at the local station down the road........mom and pop's gas mart.....I use 85 octane. Hell with these ridiculous gas prices and my college student budget I debated mixing half E-85 (2.19 Gallon) With half regular 3.08..........BUt quickly came to my senses and realized how stupid it was!!!!

[Ramblin Fever]

I know you think it's ridiculous gas prices, I completely agree - I live in Colorado too.

But do NOT use just any mom-pop station, save those for last resorts only, you're not helping your truck any.

Visit and use Shell gas only, I run 87 octane, mine runs HORRIBLE on 85, I've tried it numerous times over the course of 10yrs. But my truck originally came from California, and spent it's first 5-6yrs in Vegas, NV that had 87 octane as the lowest rating.

You could also be hearing your fuel injectors, specially if they're the least bit clogged.

I continuously get incredible gas mileage on Shell gas, usually nothing less then 16mpg city driving in winter; and 19mpg city driving in spring/summer using nothing but Shell.

If I use Conoco or Diamond Shamrock even, it drops; Phillips 66 gives me good mileage too, but there's not one around here as a staple fill up.

I think our trucks could be converted to run on Ethanol, but I'm not positive.

[tony4x4nc]

Thanks Ramblin.......I just ran a bottle of Lucas Injector cleaner through it. I think the noise is to loud to be injectors. Gonna try switching the gas....too bad I just filled up for 3.00/gallon at mom and pops yesterday. Could you or someone do me a favor and check your timing on #1. Is it possible to 180 a cam without the engine running really rough? Engine runs fine but my timing still seems off. I have power and everything My timing mark is just still past the little scale on the timing cover. I'm not positive I reset the ECM when I made the last change. Gonna try that today. Fifteen minutes minutes off the battery good?