Oil consumption for a Mazda 6?

[macklime]

Anyone know what the normal oil consumption is on a new Mazda 6? I have a 2007, 2.3L 4 cylinder. It has ~4300 kms (2688 miles) right now and is scheduled for an oil change at 8000 kms (5000 miles). I checked my oil level and it was a little low (not at the line, but close). I had to add about 3/4 of a quart. Is that normal?

[thumpetto007]

All I know is that mazdas in general consume more oil than most other cars. My dad has the 3.0 6 cylinder engine, and we go through a lot of oil. There are no leaks. Mazda engines just like to rev a bit

[jookies?ok]

My 2004 6s uses a good ammount of oil. Dunno if its the same for the 2.3i model too.

[MazdaX]

Originally Posted by jookies?ok

My 2004 6s uses a good ammount of oil. Dunno if its the same for the 2.3i model too.

The 2.3 is a ford motor and the 3.0 was taken from I think a chrysler design or another but there is a significant issue with the mazda 3's and 6's and getting on them hard somehow makes oil vanish..before I got an oil change if I got on my 04' 6i , i would have to add a quart about every 2 moths. Oddly enough , no oil in tail pipes and no oil underneath the car or on my driveway :/ go figure....

[jookies?ok]

Originally Posted by MazdaX

The 2.3 is a ford motor and the 3.0 was taken from I think a chrysler design or another but there is a significant issue with the mazda 3's and 6's and getting on them hard somehow makes oil vanish..before I got an oil change if I got on my 04' 6i , i would have to add a quart about every 2 moths. Oddly enough , no oil in tail pipes and no oil underneath the car or on my driveway :/ go figure....

So is it a flaw in the design of the cylinders do you think? As I understand it that more oil is used when it needs more help lubricating them.

[Bootsgamer]

Not a flaw just the way it was made.

[Raz_Kaz]

Originally Posted by MazdaX

The 2.3 is a ford motor and the 3.0 was taken from I think a chrysler design or another but there is a significant issue with the mazda 3's and 6's and getting on them hard somehow makes oil vanish..before I got an oil change if I got on my 04' 6i , i would have to add a quart about every 2 moths. Oddly enough , no oil in tail pipes and no oil underneath the car or on my driveway :/ go figure....

The 3.0 is a Ford Duratec....same one used in the Noble!

[Bootsgamer]

Ford owns about 40% of Mazda so they like to swap parts. The Probe was a Mazda design.

[MazdaX]

Originally Posted by Bootsgamer

Ford owns about 40% of Mazda so they like to swap parts. The Probe was a Mazda design.

Unfortuneately...I am waiting for the day mazda cuts all ties with Ford. A glorious day it will be.

[Raz_Kaz]

Mazda wouldn't be able to support itself financially therefor why Ford owns 43% of their shares

[MazdaX]

Originally Posted by Raz_Kaz

Mazda wouldn't be able to support itself financially therefor why Ford owns 43% of their shares

A re-release RX-7 with TT and AWD would give them plenty of financial support to buy themselves back. It's a complete joke and an insult to buy a performance asian tuner vehicle with american parts :/

[Bootsgamer]

Ford would not sell the shares back to them. Ford allready has lots of money it would be a loss. Ford allmost bought Ferrari back in the 50s or 60s I forget?

[MazdaX]

Originally Posted by Bootsgamer

Ford would not sell the shares back to them. Ford allready has lots of money it would be a loss. Ford allmost bought Ferrari back in the 50s or 60s I forget?

Yeah thats the way it seems :/ If I recall but dont quote me on it , I remember the old skewl ugly mustangs from mid 80's to early 90's having a 2.3 litre motor...like the mustang lx hatch back type one..-sigh- Why can't ford go bankrupt already.

[Mazda666]

Who:
This CRP is specifically for the Mazda 6s (V6) platform.

PCV
The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Valve is a check valve that allows excess exhaust fumes in the crank case to re-enter the intake manifold and be re-combusted for emissions sake.


Problem:
If the valve breaks (its basically plastic), one of two things can happen,
http://forum.mazda6tech.com/viewtopic.php?p=36503#36503

1: The valve gets stuck close. Pressure builds up in the crankcase, eventually finding an outlet. This usually results in oil spraying back up into the intake tract, or blowing the dipstick out of its holder.

2: The valve gets stuck open. When vaccuum is applied (application of throttle), the intake air sucks the oil out of the crankcase using the pcv hose as a large straw.


Problem 2:
If option 2 occurs, a low oil condition can occur, which has an extremely high likelyhood of spinning a bearing. This can result in just a rod bearing replacement, or a complete bottom end rebuild. ($$$ and Very Bad)


Identifying The Problem:
Weekly oil checks will reveal a sudden increase in oil consumption. Sometimes blue smoke exiting the exhaust can be indicative of oil being sucked into the intake tract of the engine (and being burned in the combustion chamber).


Solutions:
There is no "concrete" solution at this time. The only thing that can be done is preventative maintance.

1. Check your oil level at least bi-weekly or weekly. It only takes a few seconds. Pop the hood before leaving in the morning (weekends are great for this) and just check the dipstick. Oil level should be between the top 0 and the ford logo on the dipstick.

2. Inspect the PCV valve every oil change (5-7.5k miles). Below is instructions on how to do so. Easiest method would be removing the hose from the rear of the manifold, and applying pressure/vaccuum to test for resistance.

3/ Purchase a second PCV valve and run it in-line with the current valve (on the same hose). This will provide a level of redundancy. If one of the valves should fail, the car will still be ok.


PCV VALVE INSPECTION [AJ]




NOTE:
Removing the PCV valve might damage to the tab of the PCV valve and it will not be able to be reinstalled. Due to this, inspect the PCV valve with it installed on the vehicle.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the PCV hose from the PCV valve.
3. Apply pressure to the PCV valve and verify that there is no airflow.
If there is airflow, replace the PCV valve.
4. Apply vacuum to the PCV valve and verify that there is airflow.
If there is no airflow, replace the PCV valve.




#1 is the valve for anyone wondering.

thank you crossbow at imazda.com for this information