Changed Fuel pump - Page 2

trl97blazer · 12-03-2006, 12:09 AM

Thanks guys! I will let you all know the out come. Helping others and sharing info in the S-10’s and S-15’s family is the only we will beat the" Stealer" dealer absurb cost. You guys are the best.

trl97blazer · 12-03-2006, 12:11 AM

The fuel pump was a AC Delco GM pump. It was put in by my mechanic who is pretty good. He did however tell me that that there was quite a bit of white corrosion on the connecter!! That could be it!! We will be checking everything out on Sunday.

BlazerLT · 12-03-2006, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trl97blazer

The fuel pump was a AC Delco GM pump. It was put in by my mechanic who is pretty good. He did however tell me that that there was quite a bit of white corrosion on the connecter!! That could be it!! We will be checking everything out on Sunday.

Hopefully, he just didn't just tell you and do nothing about it. It might be the problem, but I doubt it.

mike2004tct · 12-03-2006, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trl97blazer

The fuel pump was a AC Delco GM pump. It was put in by my mechanic who is pretty good. He did however tell me that that there was quite a bit of white corrosion on the connecter!! That could be it!! We will be checking everything out on Sunday.

I'll agree with BlazerLT, and say you might ave a deeper problem.

I'll start by saying I've had my pump out of the tank 4 times in the last year and a half. (it's searchable in this forum, and sometimes rather funny)

The corrosion is unusual for the Blazer pumps, but quite common on the S10 pumps and the older style open pumps on '95s and '96s. I know this because I got an S10 pump by mistake for my truck, and it had a packet of electrical grease to put inside the connector housing, as well as a recommendation from the General to replace the wire harness. The '97 Blazer doesn't have a replaceable harness, and the connectors have a billows style insulator/cap on them that prevent moisture from entering the housing. Are those billows on your connectors still in one oval shaped piece?

That being said, it still wouldn't hurt to put the conductive grease inside the housing, and a bad connection (white corrosion) wouldn't cause low pressure, it would cause no pressure. Also on the '97s, it's impossible to mount the fuel filter the wrong way(one end is a squeeze fitting, the other end is a threaded insert), so I'd have to say your problem most likely is the new pump itself. Or perhaps when the pump was installed, the sock got bent in half restricting your fuel intake (The sock is on the bottom of the housing and gets wedged between the pump and the bottom of the tank), but both of these are just guesses on my part.

trl97blazer · 12-04-2006, 01:23 PM

Update: My mechanic came over and dropped and cleaned the contacts and tried to start it but the battery was dead so I said that I would get a battery in the morning at advance auto. I figured since it had that old delco battery in there it was time for a new one. I also picked up a can of starter fluid just to see if the truck would even start after all this time and parts we put into in it what the hell and it did! It ran for about 10seconds not rough or anything then cut off. So am I back to square one "The fuel pump"?

BlazerLT · 12-04-2006, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trl97blazer

Update: My mechanic came over and dropped and cleaned the contacts and tried to start it but the battery was dead so I said that I would get a battery in the morning at advance auto. I figured since it had that old delco battery in there it was time for a new one. I also picked up a can of starter fluid just to see if the truck would even start after all this time and parts we put into in it what the hell and it did! It ran for about 10seconds not rough or anything then cut off. So am I back to square one "The fuel pump"?

Was the new battery charged up? Was it even installed?

trl97blazer · 12-04-2006, 01:44 PM

Yes. The new battery is in but check this out. After It ran I then looked underneath and there was gas coming out from the tank area just
dripping and now there is no pressure showing on the gage. You think maybe the fuel line came loose?

BlazerLT · 12-04-2006, 02:27 PM

I think you need to get a new mechanic. This guy doesn't seem to know what he is doing.

Did he even test fuel pressure?

trl97blazer · 12-04-2006, 02:53 PM

Not sure in the beginning but truck was up and running for about 70 miles then started to stall and then finally it's to the point of where it's at now. Could it be that the fuel or gas line came loose?

BlazerLT · 12-04-2006, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trl97blazer

Not sure in the beginning but truck was up and running for about 70 miles then started to stall and then finally it's to the point of where it's at now. Could it be that the fuel or gas line came loose?

Could be a lot of things.

Again, DID YOU MECANIC TEST FOR FUEL PRESSURE.

trl97blazer · 12-04-2006, 03:20 PM

Did he even test fuel pressure?

Yes. When it stopped running it was only reading 35-45psi. I was there and saw that.

Now: After It ran I then looked underneath and there was gas coming out from the tank area just dripping and now there is no pressure showing on the gage. I checked that myself after I put the battery in this morning and started it with the starter fluid.

BlazerLT · 12-04-2006, 03:25 PM

Something could have come unattached.

You need to get that looked at ASAP seeing bad connection + raw fuel = burnt truck.

Take it to a different mechanic or force the one that did this to fix the problem, it is his job done improperly and he is reponsible to fix it.

mike2004tct · 12-04-2006, 03:42 PM

There's 3 hoses on the top of the tank. 3/8" feed line, 5/16" return line, and 1/4 or 5/16" vent line. The vent line is a snap fit connection. The feed and return lines are pinch connections (a plastic pinch connector that should've been replaced. a $0.50 piece that caused my pump to leak).

If one of these hoses were originally leaking, your SES light should've come on with an evap code.
None the less, you'll have to lower the tank to see if it's the connectors, or if a line is split (they're all plastic, and dealer items only) I'm guessing now it's the feed line.

It could also be that the feed or return lines aren't seated properly into the pump housing. Those pinch connectors only snap in one way into the lines. (the pich conns fit on the pump housing inlets/outlets, and you push the hoses onto the inlets/outlets until you hear an audible snap)

trl97blazer · 12-04-2006, 03:56 PM

That explains quite a bit. The stalling and then the no start something is loose or came off for sure because if the pump was bad it would not be pumping that gas that I saw coming out when it started with the starter fluid.

He stated that he would come over and drop the tank and check everything. I will keep you guys updated and post results. Again thank you guys.

DelCoch · 12-04-2006, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by trl97blazer

The fuel pump was a AC Delco GM pump. It was put in by my mechanic . . .

That explains a lot in and of itself, as we are dealing with information in 3rd person here. It's hard to tell what your mechanic has done or not done. Not to diss the mechanic, but it just leaves a lot of unknowns.

As Mike pointed out, the connecting line at the tank/pump appears to be leaking which would account for the low and/or no fuel pump pressure.

Do you even know if you're getting 12+ volts to the pump and if the pump is being supplied with a good ground??

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

You need to get that looked at ASAP seeing bad connection + raw fuel = burnt truck.

At one time I considered this as a solution for my no start truck.

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