H22a SWAP issues. PLEASE HELP

[sprayedlude93]

hi everyone. IT seems that now-a-days noone really replies back to the H series threads. I will try this forum and see what happens...
Now my H22a is not in a Civic. It's in my 93' Prelude, but since alot of you Civi owners have done this swap I figured maybe youse would help.

Note** I don't drive the car.

Issue.
I am taching out @ 4k RPMS
Codes I am throwing:
code 4. Crank sensor (people stated in the past that JDM H22a's do not have a CKP. Is this true and the US ecu is throwing the code b/c when it looks for it it is not there or is this a myth? )
code 6. Engine coolant sensor

Could any of these codes be causing me to bounce back @ 4k?

I don't think a code 6 would cause it to bounce @ 4k would it? Anyhow I noticed that the temp stays normal but when you touch the valve cover or my koyo radiator it is EXTREMELY Hot. Maybe caused by the defective sensor? Tomorrow tho I am going to get a low stat (160) and try to see if it keeps it cooler. I just never thought the Koyo would get so hot. I figured it would be really cool reguardless.

I'm running a friends p72 ecu (stock) B/c I never got the p13 with this swap and the p28 I got runs it like as* (b/c it's stock- haha). I know the Gsr p72 I'm using is stock but I know alot of Civi guys around here using stock ones on there Jdm H22's and there having no issues. Which reminds me. Is anyone looking for one? I will sell or trade the virgin p28 I have. If it's a trade I am looking to get a p13. But I would expect it to be in good running condition since the one I have is. I am located in Reading PA 19604

On to my grounds. Just incase this could be causing it. I only have 2 grounds. Dumb yes, but I am not sure where others might go. I have one for the trans going to the core support frame and one going from the valve cover to the core support frame. I know there is supposed to be one on the cam gears side to the mount. I will have to connect one there tomorrow.

My Vafc *1*. I just noticed today that whehn the car is running and I step on the throttle the VAFC does not show my throttle %. It stays @ 0 like I'm not even on it. But when the cars turned off and the key is to the ON position it will show the throttle % when I step on the gas. It was working fine for the last 2 wks and all of a sudden this happens. I e ven plugged in my friends VAFC and it does the same thing. Any ideas?

Ok I think that's all for now. If anyone could help or have any insight I would apprecite. Also I know alot of people read these threads with similar issues and think WOW I am going to get a answer but don't b/c either noone replied or if the person fixed it they never posted what they did. That kinda screws things up for others I think so I will be posting all results.

Thank you to everyone in advance.

[CivicSpoon]

As far as I'm aware, both have the crank position sensor (regardless of USDM or JDM), and both should have it wired at B15 and B16 of the ecu's. Sounds like you probably have a bad sensor. The ECT sensor sounds like it needs to be replaced as well, I'd be more worried about this one than the crank one. And as long as the car starts and doesn't have a bad idle, having just the 2 grounds should be enough. Sorry I can't help you more.

[sprayedlude93]

I should also note that the idle is around 1300 on the stock RPM guage and about 900-930 (it moves) on the VAFC (i have read somewhere that the stock rpm gauges are usually a little off so I'm not worried about it). I tried to loosen the trottle cable more thinking it was to tight but it's back has far has it can go. IT might be the timing has far has that's concerned, but I have a light weight flywheel and since there prebalanced I was told from AImco clutched in California that theres no need to shoot a timing gun on the flywheel. Besides there's no markings on it anyway. I did check to see if everything was TDC and it is. So i might just need to play with the dizzy some more to fix that issue I guess. But when I give it a little throttle it chokes and sounds like there's a huge loss in power and then it slowy will rev up depending on how hard I'm pressing down the throttle. Now when I first switched out the P28ecu to the P72 ecu I wasn't throwing a CKP code and it would rev up VERY VERY smooth. But once I reset the ECU then turned the car on again I had the same bogging/hesitating issues has well has the CKP code.

[josevaldes]

i had the same problem when i swap my h22a into my civic... my problem was the coolant sensor. now my car is revin past 4k so i say you check that sensor out and also check your map sensor