97 PA Brake Job Help

[Cornejo]

Im trying to understand how to do a rear brake job on a 1997 Buick Park Avenue (rotors and pads). On the front there are 2 bolts that hold the caliper, but on the rear there is only 1 bolt, and and where the top bolt should be there is just a pin (its just a smooth cap instead of a bolt head)

So my questions is how do you remove the caliper and compress the piston so that I can change the pads/rotors. And then once I compress the piston does the caliper just pivot so you can remove everything?

Is there maybe a special tool you need to use to compress the piston?


So what are the correct steps to get this done, and thank you in advance.

[wrightz28]

Originally Posted by Cornejo

?

Is there maybe a special tool you need to use to compress the piston?


.

Yes, it doesn't compress it twists in. Notice there should be a groove in the piston with a small hole on it, that's what the tool locks in to.

[Cornejo]

Ok, but then can I just force the caliper up so i can use this tool.

[wrightz28]

You shouldn't have to or be forcing anything. Keep in mind, you have wheel sensors in the area that if you go forcing things and banging on them, there goes a couple hundred bucks in ABS work. Be careful.

[kok328]

The rears are hinged and you may experience some resistance getting the pads over any grooves or lip that may exist on the rotor. As already warned, just make sure your not prying against the ABS sensors or anything.
As far as a special tool, I use a pair of short needle nose pliers to retract the piston.

[HotZ28]

You can buy the tool in the link below at some of the major parts chains, however, you need to know if you have the 2 1/2" or 2 1/8" piston.
ToolSource - Product Display

[Cornejo]

Thank you all very much, all the help is much appreciated. Ill go try this again.

[2KUltra]

Originally Posted by kok328

The rears are hinged and you may experience some resistance getting the pads over any grooves or lip that may exist on the rotor. As already warned, just make sure your not prying against the ABS sensors or anything.
As far as a special tool, I use a pair of short needle nose pliers to retract the piston.

Just a FYI (and I know this is an old thread- I've been away from the forum for a LONG time), but it is really easy to miss the fact that on a rear brake pad replacement on these cars, you have to unbolt the emergency brake cable retainer clamp to let the caliper swing out of the way, and it is rather hidden from view. But it must be done!

-2KU

[HotZ28]

Thanks 2KUltra for bringing this thread back to life. I just recalled that I wanted to elaborate again on the “piss poor design” of this type of rear caliper. GM was well aware of the design flaws with the ratcheting caliper as far back as the mid 80’s when they begin having complaints of binding rear brakes and rapid pad wear in the rear, when using these calipers. At least they were kind enough to caution everyone to “use the emergency brake often, to prevent binding of the calipers”! It is hard for me to believe, that this same design caliper, was still being used in the late 90’s! It just goes to show you, how “slow the GM clock turns”!