HVAC Problem - Page 2

JoshBarber · 04-11-2006, 01:30 PM

JoshBarber · 04-11-2006, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazee

Sorry I missed the picture. You posted it while I was replying. That is a picture of the blend door motor.

"Blend Door Motor" That sounds about right.
Do you think its the motor? Or the door itself getting stuck?
You ever replaced it?? It looks near impossible!
Do you have a part number for it?

blazee · 04-11-2006, 01:39 PM

What kind of fart noise is it making? There are a lot of different sounding farts. Is it a creaking sound or a ripping sound? A creaking sound would seem more like something sticking. A ripping sound could be the gears inside the motor slipping.

JoshBarber · 04-11-2006, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazee

Sorry I missed the picture. You posted it while I was replying. That is a picture of the blend door motor.

Just called the dealer, they're calling it a "Actuator Temp Valve" and its a $187/ea part.

JoshBarber · 04-11-2006, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazee

What kind of fart noise is it making? There are a lot of different sounding farts. Is it a creaking sound or a ripping sound? A creaking sound would seem more like something sticking. A ripping sound could be the gears inside the motor slipping.

It sounds like a groan/creak...like RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
starts strong and peters out to nothing. Kind of like a bullfrog low croak.

JoshBarber · 04-11-2006, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazee

What kind of fart noise is it making? There are a lot of different sounding farts. Is it a creaking sound or a ripping sound? A creaking sound would seem more like something sticking. A ripping sound could be the gears inside the motor slipping.

I dont think the creak noise is normal.........but -
what would cause it to be adjusting constantly regardless of the fact that the heat controls are shut off?

is it possible its a sensor, or relay elsewhere? if so where? or would the motor turn itself on and off by itself if its EFFED up?

JoshBarber · 04-11-2006, 04:58 PM

does anyone have access to the wiring diagram for this part?
I would like to check the connector with a meter to see if its sending power to the unit at ALL TIMES and if it in fact should or not. Im looking for what the output numbers should be on this connector shown, with the key on. Its a horrible task to try to remove this and I'd rather determine its this part ($200) and make sure its not just getting power when it shouldnt be.

thanks
J

blazee · 04-11-2006, 05:03 PM

Turn the key to run, or start the engine. Pull the connector off and check the power there. You should have three wires. The black is ground. The brown should be hot. The light blue should scale up based on the position of the temp control switch. With the switch at full hot there should be 0 volts. The voltage should climb as you turn the knob to cold. When you get to full cold it should read the same voltage as the battery.

blazee · 04-11-2006, 05:05 PM

Here's the schematic:
http://www.myfilehut.com/userfiles/1...020%20ZOOM.JPG

JoshBarber · 04-11-2006, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazee

Here's the schematic:
http://www.myfilehut.com/userfiles/1...020%20ZOOM.JPG

Oh man, Blazee....
thanks SOOOO much! this will help big time.
I'll print this and check these tomorrow and should have a good idea if theres a problem BEFORE the actuator, or if its the actuator itself. $200 for an unreturnable part that Im not sure is the problem is a little more than I can spare!

If its the actuator....I'm gonna beg you for a removal procedure. Ive tried a few times to get my hand in there to the 3 mounting screws and it seems impossible. You must have to remove the upper section of dash on the Passenger side.

blazee · 04-11-2006, 08:38 PM

Most people pull the dash. A while back, a guy posted that he got if off with out pulling the dash, but it was a PITA. I would try it without touching the dash, even if its a real pain in the ass, it should still be easier than pulling the dash.

If you decide to remove the dash. You'll need to remove all the under dash panels and the knee bolster. There are two bolts at the bottom of the dash. (one on each side) they are 10mm. Below the steering column there are two "L" brackets, each bracket has 4 - 10mm bolts, you'll only need to remove the ones that are hard to get to. On top of the dash, there are 6 - 7mm screws. One under each speaker grill, and four under the defrost vent. The whole dash will roll forward after you remove all the screws, so that you can access behind it.

After you get it off, you can manually move the door to make sure that there aren't any obstructions, and that it is working properly.

JoshBarber · 04-11-2006, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazee

Most people pull the dash. A while back, a guy posted that he got if off with out pulling the dash, but it was a PITA. I would try it without touching the dash, even if its a real pain in the ass, it should still be easier than pulling the dash.

If you decide to remove the dash. There are two bolts at the bottom. (one on each side) they are 10mm. Below the steering column there are two "L" brackets, each bracket has 4 - 10mm bolts, you'll only need to remove the ones that are hard to get to. On top of the dash, there are 6 - 7mm screws. One under each speaker grill, and four under the defrost vent.

After you get it off, you can manually move the door to see if there are any obstructions, and that it is working properly.

It sounds like a MAJOR bitch to get the dash off. Is it? Then of course the inevitable squeaking that will follow for the rest of me owning it over bumps etc.

Although, it would be nice to know for sure if theres obstruction or not on the door itself. What do you reccommend?
Its really wierd. Its like on a clockwork if you turn the key and watch the actuator move the shaft on the door. It turns and sqeaks all the way to one side. Pauses for about 2.5 seconds, and turns and squeaks all the way to the other side. And it repeats this constantly with the key on or running. If you have the temp control ON, it changes from cold to hot on each rotation. I cant figure out if the controls are f3c&ked and are sending it this repeated message, something like a relay BEFORE the actuator, or if the actuator itself has a brain of some sort in it, and because its screwy it just continues to move back and forth.

blazee · 04-11-2006, 08:55 PM

I edited my last post and added a little more info while you were replying.

Rolling the dash is a bitch the first time that you do it. After you know where everything is and how to access it, it's not as bad, but....... it's still a bitch.

It does sound like you have a control problem. You should know for sure after you test the voltages.

If it is the actuator that's bad, you'll still be able to test the door manually after you get it off even if you removed it without touching the dash.

JoshBarber · 04-11-2006, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazee

I edited my last post and added a little more info while you were replying.

Rolling the dash is a bitch the first time that you do it. After you know where everything is and how to access it, it's not as bad, but....... it's still a bitch.

It does sound like you have a control problem. You should know for sure after you test the voltages.

If it is the actuator that's bad, you'll still be able to test the door manually after you get it off even if you removed it without touching the dash.

How so? Just by putting pliers on the door shaft manually?

JoshBarber · 04-11-2006, 10:29 PM

Hey Blazee -

Looking at the schematic. Does the highlighted area suggest the Actuator in question? And if so...does the "valve SENSOR AND MOTOR" suggest that the actuator itself has some brains in it itself? Or am I jumping to conclusions?

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