Throttle plate mod - Page 4

joeuser742 · 03-21-2006, 04:20 PM

Yes, I just did this this past weekend. Unplugged the battery, took the screws off that holds the throttle plate on, then opened it up to full throttle with a screwdriver holding it open, then just pulled out the throttle plate. It was a struggle to pull it out because of all the dried grease on it. I need to pull the intake and clean that out soon, the buildup was all over inside. Next I took out the dremel tool, cut the plate and smoothed it out. Cleaned it up and put it back together. Plugged the battery in, started it up and I didn't really notice any bad fluctuation in idle, maybe just a couple of hundred rpms for a second, but nothing really that noticeable. Basically the truck runs a little smoother and the throttle response is a little better along with a bit more HP. I noticed that it drives like every other car/truck now, I don't have to give it half the pedal to get it to move.

Blazer SS · 03-22-2006, 08:49 PM

I Just read the whole thread. Please forgive me for saying this, But doing these mods will defintly give you more HP. Can anyone tell me how the throttle works? It is basicly a tube with a lid, when you want air you open the tube (rotate the lid) when you don't you close it.
Now put a small hole in the lid to let a small amount of air into the tube, so that air enters even when the lid is closed (idle), the engine runs, to make the engine run faster, let in more air (open the lid) With the lid completely open (wot) theoretically engine runs at full speed, now GM blocked off maybe 40% of the lid (throttle),does the engine run at full speed?
Can the engine get all of the air that it needs? I know that I used the marathon with a finger up your nose before ,but it is still true here. I have done these mods. I had to! I also had to port my throttle to make it even bigger to give my engine all of the air that it needs.
The gas metering is handled by a bunch of sensors, everything from the MAF sensor to the TPS to the o2 sensors the computor handles all of the complex functions and will adjust itself to give the propper amount of fuel for all of the extra air.
Sometimes the computor needs a little kick to make it learn faster,as mentioned in this thread. The fastest way is to remove the battery cables from the battery and touch them together. Caution if you have a aftermarket program doing this will remove them!!
Remember you can't please all of the people all of the time, But you can try to find a basic leval for most of them.

Cloud Strife · 03-22-2006, 08:56 PM

Do what? You say to clear your Blazer's computer you just take the hot and ground wire of your Blazer and touch them together? Do explain.....

Edit: Is this similar to clearing the CMOS on your computer if you are having issues?

nickledimed · 03-23-2006, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blazer SS

I Just read the whole thread. Please forgive me for saying this, But doing these mods will defintly give you more HP. Can anyone tell me how the throttle works? It is basicly a tube with a lid, when you want air you open the tube (rotate the lid) when you don't you close it.
Now put a small hole in the lid to let a small amount of air into the tube, so that air enters even when the lid is closed (idle), the engine runs, to make the engine run faster, let in more air (open the lid) With the lid completely open (wot) theoretically engine runs at full speed, now GM blocked off maybe 40% of the lid (throttle),does the engine run at full speed?
Can the engine get all of the air that it needs? I know that I used the marathon with a finger up your nose before ,but it is still true here. I have done these mods. I had to! I also had to port my throttle to make it even bigger to give my engine all of the air that it needs.
The gas metering is handled by a bunch of sensors, everything from the MAF sensor to the TPS to the o2 sensors the computor handles all of the complex functions and will adjust itself to give the propper amount of fuel for all of the extra air.
Sometimes the computor needs a little kick to make it learn faster,as mentioned in this thread. The fastest way is to remove the battery cables from the battery and touch them together. Caution if you have a aftermarket program doing this will remove them!!
Remember you can't please all of the people all of the time, But you can try to find a basic leval for most of them.

Thank you Blazer SS, I have been biting my tung becouse I knew if I had responded it would have just started an argument.

old_master · 03-23-2006, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nickledimed

http://www.sshotrods.com/fullsize/4.3/maf/

Rather than destroying the screen to remove it, why not just remove the snap ring, and then remove the screen intact? That way when you realize removing the screen hurt performance, and cleaning the sensor wires improved it, you could re-install the screen and snap ring. This would save having to buy a new MAF sensor. The screen is there to straighten and stabilize the air flow so the MAF sensor can get a more accurate reading. Cleaning the wires is a good idea; permanently removing the screen is not.

Cloud Strife · 03-23-2006, 04:11 PM

I am going to write up a good explanation why this screen needs to be in place using engineering terms tonight when I get the chance.

nickledimed · 03-23-2006, 06:34 PM

Well its been a good while, since I have done these mods and I havent had any problems as of yet....As for Engineers, I do not put much stock into them becouse for one...who do you think put this crap on my truck, and 2, I am a 21 yr machinist veteran, and what I have seen them try to do sometimes.....well to but it bluntly....not very smart....Numbers are not always right....all I can say right now is, I realy dont care if you try it or not, I know my truck runs a hell of alot better now and Im happy with it...I guess thats all that counts......But dont knock it till youve tied it.

PS not all engineers are this way...just most that i have seen.

Cloud Strife · 03-23-2006, 08:18 PM

Ok I am referring to the so called "Screen mod" when I explain this.

I will start off with the easy terms.

The way the stock air box is set up is in a rectangle. When the air is being pulled through the filter, it will not be pulled through the filter at an even rate at every portion of the filter. Most of the suction will come from the middle of the filter.

When you open up your throttle it pulls all the air into the manifold. There will be a slight whirlwind effect. If there is was no screen present, it is quite possible for this effect to stretch all the way to your air flow sensors. The screen there breaks this effect in a way where the wind will cross the filaments in the air flow sensor at an EVEN rate. Because if it wasn't present, there would be a chance that the velocity the air travels over these filaments will change due to the "whirlwind" effect. Just like a tornado, the wind is strongest near the center of the "whirlwind". If one of these were to hypothetically come across one of the filaments, then ONE of the two filaments would sense a higher velocity and would have to trim the air/fuel mixture. The two filaments there are to cross-check each other to ensure that the flow is coming in properly. Because it would quite easy for one of them to detect faster flowing air in the lower portion of your intake tube while the upper filament may not detect it.

The screen must be there to ensure that both filaments take and detect the airflow which should be close to the actual value.

A case study by the engineers most likely resulted in this screen needing to be implemented. Sure the throttle plate could have been put in for a reason, but I cannot justify why. Maybe it was to prevent a lean mixture in cylinders 1 & 2. But I strongly recommend you leave this screen in place in front of your mass airflow sensors.

Sorry for using an engineers methodology. I am one BTW.

Eslhockey92g · 03-23-2006, 10:09 PM

Cloud Strife - that all makes sense, What are your feelings on the thottle plate mod?

old_master · 03-23-2006, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cloud Strife

...Sure the throttle plate could have been put in for a reason, but I cannot justify why. Maybe it was to prevent a lean mixture in cylinders 1 & 2...

Assuming each cylinder is functioning properly, (rings, valves, head gasket) including fuel delivery and exhaust, each will produce the same negative pressure. Provided there are no leaks in the intake manifold/plenum, there is no reason that modifying the throttle body would affect any cylinder any differently than another.

Cloud Strife · 03-23-2006, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old_master

Assuming each cylinder is functioning properly, (rings, valves, head gasket) including fuel delivery and exhaust, each will produce the same negative pressure. Provided there are no leaks in the intake manifold/plenum, there is no reason that modifying the throttle body would affect any cylinder any differently than another.

I agree with you on this.

I do not know how it affect fuel economy when you do complete the TB mod. I know that you will be using less throttle, but if what I understand about the computer correcting the AIR/FUEL mixture, then when you complete this mod the results should still be the same. Reason being is that the TB is still doing its job either way.

The only way I can think of this benefitting would be when you near WOT and could benefit from the extra volumetric input of removing the restrictor.
But if we only had some real-word results here to work with. The user opinions here seem to favor the mod, but number speak louder than words.

Here is something I am wondering. If the TB is positioned directly over the center of the manifold, then this restrictor would not be needed. But maybe it is in place due to it being positioned near the rear of the manifold. Hell I am just pondering things here, don't mind me.

Who has seen a MPG increase?
Please list IDLE RPMs.
Filter type or Cold Air Intake?

Cloud Strife · 03-23-2006, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eslhockey92g

Cloud Strife - that all makes sense, What are your feelings on the thottle plate mod?

I am leaning at doing it, but have a few things that need answered first. Please see my above post for my thoughts.

BlazerLT · 03-24-2006, 12:29 AM

Has never been proven to add power or anything.

Just like the Throttle body spacer.

nickledimed · 03-24-2006, 08:13 PM

You know what I did?...I went to a junk yard and got a throttle plate cut the resticter off and pulled the one in the truck out. that way if I had to I could put it back to original......guess what...the one with the resticter is still sitting on my shelf.....and the plate at the junkyard only cost me 5 bucks....so if you want to try it, and your afraid it will mess something up, that is one option.....as for the screen on the MAF?...mine didnt have any clips or springs...I had to knock it out...but no biggy...I can get anouther one at a junkyard for about 10 bucks....but I havnt found any need for it yet. Truck still runs fine.

BlazerLT · 03-24-2006, 08:47 PM

Not to be negative, I just wanted to share some information with everyone.

The MAF descreening is NOT a good thing to do, the screen is there to straighten airflow so the sensor can take an accurate reading.

The screen doesn't hinder flow and the MAF on a 4.3L is the same size as the ones used on a 454 and it can supply enough air without restriction to supply that huge engine. The 4.3L is child's play for it.

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