95 running horrible again - Page 3

cubanlorenzo · 01-02-2006, 04:37 PM

he only replaced the starter, free of charge as well, so i might as well keep the new starter in there. also this morning i went out there to give it a try and it turned over for about a second then stopped like usual. what do you make of that?

cubanlorenzo · 01-03-2006, 02:16 AM

i was told that i should try to turn the engine with a socket wrench and see if it will turn. if it does then he said my timing could be off. if it doesnt then there is something internally wrong. could your timing being off cause the car not to crank? sometimes i get a little crank but then it wont after that. just one loud click. thanks in advance

rlith · 01-03-2006, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cubanlorenzo

i was told that i should try to turn the engine with a socket wrench and see if it will turn. if it does then he said my timing could be off. if it doesnt then there is something internally wrong. could your timing being off cause the car not to crank? sometimes i get a little crank but then it wont after that. just one loud click. thanks in advance

Turning the crank by hand will not tell you if your timing is off. Besides, you can't adjust your timing anyway. Now if you pull all your plugs and rotate the crank (you will need a breaker bar) that will tell you if it's seized or not. Though I can't see it being seized unless you lost all oil pressure or overheated to hell. At this point with all that you've thrown at it it will probably be easier just to let a dealer look at it and diagnose it then if possible do the work yourself.

cubanlorenzo · 01-03-2006, 09:38 AM

someone else told me that it might be seized but i dont see that as possible. the car ran up to the day i pulled the plenum and checked for leaking again. never over heated and oil level and pressure was good. so im going to have to towed to my mechanic, and have him do a diagnosis for free. if it something minor ill get ti fixed. but if it isnt then it's time to let this car go...anyone want a 95? hahaha kidding of course

rlith · 01-03-2006, 09:40 AM

As I said earlier in the thread. It's quite possible that your starter was replaced with another faulty one.

cubanlorenzo · 01-03-2006, 11:52 AM

well i pulled the plugs and turned the crank by hand, it moved. hard to move but it did move. so now im going to have it towed

LowRider71 · 01-04-2006, 11:42 AM

Hey bud.........just to let you know that the other night, my starter went out on me. Actually, when I went to start my truck, it was dead in the water......I can hear a loud click but starter wasn't turning. It was fine earlier. I had this "no start" couple times before with this truck.

Ended up replacing the starter with remanufactured starter from AutoZone for like $120 and started fine now.

I even had my old starter tested and it passed. However, it may seems like it's still good but I know the solenoid can have a mind of its own when it starts acting up. The solenoid is attached on the starter.

Took me 2 hours to change the starter due to tight space.

Thought I'd pass along to you.

--Ralph

cubanlorenzo · 01-11-2006, 03:56 PM

well received a call from my mechanic today. told me engine is hydrolocked pretty bad. drained the oil out and he said there looked to be more gas than oil in there. he was saying with the amount of miles and cost, pretty much leaned toward me not fixing the car. especially with the amount of miles i have on it, 205000.. so i think im going to take his advice and get rid of it, has a nice body on it so i maybe be able to find someone who has an engine to buy it. if not then the wrecking yard will be more than happy to take it.

BlazerLT · 01-11-2006, 04:10 PM

I wouldn't throw the towel in on that.

Hydrolock is not a reason to throw a truck away like that.

cubanlorenzo · 01-11-2006, 04:32 PM

he was saying that the gas ate away at the valve seals and other things. he is just trying to give me options. he said that he will do the work, but he also doesnt want to see me dump more money into it just to get it fixed and maybe have a rod knock or something else. he was saying with hydrolocking there is potential for the bent rods. he mentioned that there was a lot of gas mixed with my oil, and as everyone knows that just is bad news. but we will see. i told him i will let him know tomorrow what i am going to do...

gmyoyo · 01-11-2006, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cubanlorenzo

he was saying that the gas ate away at the valve seals and other things. he is just trying to give me options. he said that he will do the work, but he also doesnt want to see me dump more money into it just to get it fixed and maybe have a rod knock or something else. he was saying with hydrolocking there is potential for the bent rods. he mentioned that there was a lot of gas mixed with my oil, and as everyone knows that just is bad news. but we will see. i told him i will let him know tomorrow what i am going to do...

That's too bad. If it's any consequence, not knowing how much money you want to spend. I purchased a short block from A-1 automotive online (I beleive) for around $465 and had it shipped to a mechanic who tested it (probably a waste since A-1 isn't in the business of sending out bad engines) then had it installed into my truck with all my old accessories, which weren't all old because I had just replaced the injector and nut kit (aprox 400 bucks if I remember, dealer item so no leeway there) mechanic did the swap for around 600-700 bucks, including new gaskets where needed and fluides and all, he also fixed a broken motor mount and replaced a terrible looking, but working sensor on side of engine (might have been the coolent temp, i forget to be honest and don't have the receipt in front of me to quote from).
Bottom line is I did all this, because the body and interior were pretty much mint for a 10 year old ride. So less than say $1500 gets you a new (used) motor and peace of mind assuming your mechanic will do this for you as well. Wouldn't hurt to enquire. Just a thought in case you were interested... Car's running great still (knock on wood) and hopefully will get plenty more miles out of it since I know the entire history of the engine and all...
All this was from memory so if you want specifics let me know, but I do know they will ship engine to anywhere in US. Cost was a lot less than going and buying another unkown vehicle...

gmyoyo · 01-11-2006, 05:12 PM

Oh yea, I also have put a new $11 klean screen gasket between the EGR and manifold...

cubanlorenzo · 01-11-2006, 05:17 PM

yea i was thinking of maybe purchasing another engine. car is 11 years old, but still holding up. i put a lot of money into this thing in the 2 years i had it. ALOT of money, like 4000. 4 balljoints, 4 shock, tires, exhaust, idler arm, pitman arm, inner and outter tie rods both sides, cooler lines. had some engine work a while back because my brother ran the car hot and overheated, water pump. but i was looking to get into something newer. probably a 2002. thinking about buying a Grand Cherokee limited that is for sale near me.

blazes9395 · 01-11-2006, 05:39 PM

Alright, if you don't want it, just bring it over to me, I'll give you what the wrecking yard will give you...LOL

Seriously though, when you checked the connections and all for the CPI did you do it with the upper plenum off? Without starting it and the upper plenum off, get someone to turn the key to the "on" position and you look for gas leaking. Another common area of a faulty injector is where the nozzle tubes connect to the main injector body. Only way to discover this is with the upper plenum off and in the on position, disconnect the injector and fire the injector manually by running a couple of wires from the injector to the battery. All I did was pull a injector harness from a wrecking yard, plugged it in on the CPI injector and completed it at the battery. It fired and a huge amount of gas leaked out. You will not see a leak with just the key in the on position, because the injector does not fire unless you turn it over, but you don't want to do that with the upper plenum off. Cylinders 3 and 4 would be hydrolocked if you had a leak with the CPI because there are small holes in the lower intake that lead to the intake port of those cylinders. If lots of gas was leaking as a result of a bad CPI or lines, the gas would flow through those holes and into those cylinders, causing a hydrolock situation. This could also happen in other cylinders if the injector was bad, you mentioned cylinder 2 having a misfire. Now yes the engine*could* be damaged as a result of hydrolocking, but it takes a lot to bend the rods, thats the gamble. With all the money you said you have in this truck, it sounds really rough to let it go.

cubanlorenzo · 01-11-2006, 05:43 PM

yea i hate to get rid of it because of all the money i put into it. i kept all receipts for that day when i was going to sell it, but now with it not starting i doubt someone will even want it now. something that really sucks is thta about 3 months ago i had my car parked in front of my house, and guy came to my door and was like i have an engine for that blazer, want to get rid of it? had i know then what i do now, i would have done it in a heart beat. funny how things work out.

as for getting rid of it, if anyone is close to me and wants a body for a 1995 LS 4X4 and have a way of transporting it then by all means, knock yourself out and take it.

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