Just finished pins and bushings on my 2002 Blazer. Some of my observations (some of which have already been made - thanks to those before me on this post):
1) Two hollow concrete blocks on end with a few shim boards makes a good support under the door. Then use your floor jack with a wood block in the middle which will come in handy for when the door goes back in. I can see how opening the window and supporting from above would be even better but I did not have a sky hook.
2) You do not have to remove the boot and wires but be aware that a full retraction of the door will not be possible and the natural resting place is just off of the hinges and still in the door well next to the hinges. Prepare in advance with padding around the front edge of the door or you will get paint chips and scratching.
3) The spring can be in a rotation where you cannot insert the door spring tool far enough apart to get complete spring compression for removal. A pair of channel locks on the middle of the spring with a twisting motion will bring the spring (careful, lots of stored energy) out of the door. Re-insertion is then very easy because the tool can get in the proper position for compression. Just remember to seat it well to start and treat it like a loaded gun (watch where you point it).
4) A socket extension and hammer for pin removal. A chisel for bushing destruction. A punch for fragment removal.
5) Despite the waxy coating, the new bushings have to be lubed or most of them will not go in without breaking. I used white lithium grease. You pull each one into place individually with a homemade tool stacked from top down as:
Top of 1/2" X 2" hex bolt
Fender washer
Bushing (flange up)
hinge
socket (to receive the bushing nose)
fender washer
Nut
Keep the stack squared up and watch for tilting and binding, stop and restart if the assembly gets too tilted or you will break the bushing shoulder. Start tightening and the bushing will be drawn into the hole. I tried to span both bushings in a common hinge but that did not work. I tried pressing them in with a large channel lock and that had a 50% crumble rate.
6) Have a helper and be ready for pin insertion with a good starting bushing/hole alignment or the door can get out of square with partial pin insertion and really torque on the new bushings. Start each pin partially so that the door is pretty square then finish.
7) Have extra bushings of both sizes or you may be stuck with a door removed, unable to finish. Even with every precaution, these bushings are very soft and break easily.
8) 20 minutes per door is a good estimate but only after you work the kinks out on the first door, so assume 20min/door plus the learning curve on the first door and a run to the store for bolts/washers/etc.
Good luck.
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