Loud Lifter Knock/Missing coolant/Intake Manifold Gasket - Page 4

lou S. · 02-10-2005, 01:05 PM

Go for it. That's an awesome price for cooler lines. I'll remember that in the future. I'm on my 3rd set-----so goes the wisconsin weather bein kind to some auto parts.

blazee · 02-10-2005, 01:11 PM

They should be here tommorow. The $20 is for the ones that go from the filter to the radiator. The ones that go from the filter to the engine were $30 or $40.

I still can't figure out why they were so much at the dealer, I thought maybe because they were trying to sell me both sets, but the guy said it was just the ones from the radiator to the filter. I asked him three times if he was sure . He said he was.

At rockauto I got the lines, motor mount, and paid for 2 day shipping for less than the price of just the lines at the dealer.

lou S. · 02-10-2005, 01:14 PM

Unbelievable!!!!!!!!!!

blazee · 02-10-2005, 01:27 PM

Look for yourself:

http://www.rockauto.com

I didn't believe it either, but they have pics and it is definitely it.

blazee · 02-10-2005, 01:38 PM

I just went back and looked again:

4wd:

Filter to radiator.....$20

Filter to engine..$33.79

2wd:

Radiator to engine..$28.79

Mine was bad where the line goes into the bottom of the radiator. Believe it or not, the hard plastic wire loom rubbed through the metal line. I suggest everyone check theirs to make sure they won't have the same issue.

BlazerLT · 02-10-2005, 02:07 PM

color is not how you judge if oil is clean.

talonx · 02-10-2005, 08:02 PM

Get a pressure tester for the cooling system.
I would use tranny fluid if you have to flush your engine. Don't use Moto-medic or the like.
If your oil is milky then it has anitfreexe in it most likely either the head or intake gasket.

Rick Norwood · 02-10-2005, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by talonx

Get a pressure tester for the cooling system.
I would use tranny fluid if you have to flush your engine. Don't use Moto-medic or the like.
If your oil is milky then it has anitfreexe in it most likely either the head or intake gasket.

Thanks for the reply, but I think I got my problem solved thanks to BlazerLT and others on this Forum.

I used the "Gunk" brand flush with some cheap fresh oil and a new cheap filter. Then drained that all out and filled with fresh Castrol GTX 5W-30 oil and a new AC Delco Filter. This motor has never run this quiet, and the oil is still so clean that it is barely visible on the dipstick.

I have heard of using tranny fluid in the crankcase, and even diesel fuel. But I think I would have a pretty tough time explaining any potential damage to the dealership trying to make good on my extended warranty.

I have learned that condensation on the inside of the oil filler cap is normal, and can even be found on the inside of filler caps of air cooled engines. So I think I was a little premature on suspecting water in the oil. As it turns out, it was a little sludge.

Rick

blazee · 02-11-2005, 08:57 PM

Well, I got my oil lines today, they are cheaper at Rockauto, because the quality is nothing like the originals (didn't really expect it to be). The only issue I saw that might be a problem (other than the lines being thinner than original) is that the end that goes to the top of the radiator has a bend instead of a 90 degree connector. The extra distance that it sticks out with the bend makes it rest right up against the air box, this could allow it to rub a hole in the line. I put a short peice of hose over it for protection.

I also did a Gunk flush for 30min. and refilled with Mobil1 10w30 and used a NAPA GOLD oil filter. Ran a bottle of Techron through and threw on a new NAPA GOLD fuel filter too. 120,000 and it sounds and runs like brand new again.

BlazerLT · 02-12-2005, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazee

Well, I got my oil lines today, they are cheaper at Rockauto, because the quality is nothing like the originals (didn't really expect it to be). The only issue I saw that might be a problem (other than the lines being thinner than original) is that the end that goes to the top of the radiator has a bend instead of a 90 degree connector. The extra distance that it sticks out with the bend makes it rest right up against the air box, this could allow it to rub a hole in the line. I put a short peice of hose over it for protection.

I also did a Gunk flush for 30min. and refilled with Mobil1 10w30 and used a NAPA GOLD oil filter. Ran a bottle of Techron through and threw on a new NAPA GOLD fuel filter too. 120,000 and it sounds and runs like brand new again.

Sweet, guess you just had the remote filter to cooler leaking then.

Most people have the lines going from the filter to the engine leaking.

blazee · 02-12-2005, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlazerLT

Sweet, guess you just had the remote filter to cooler leaking then.

Most people have the lines going from the filter to the engine leaking.

Yeah, it was just the ones to the cooler. Luckily the ones going from the filter to the engine were good, they look like a PITA to change out.

BlazerLT · 02-12-2005, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazee

Yeah, it was just the ones to the cooler. Luckily the ones going from the filter to the engine were good, they look like a PITA to change out.

True, even if they start to sweat oil a bit, I wouldn't worry about it.

People often swap them out and they still leak.

lou S. · 02-14-2005, 08:06 AM

Filter to engine requires about a 3-4' extension.

chembrad · 02-14-2005, 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick Norwood

Just because I'm old and dense:

Should I add the quart of cleaner to cheap oil and junk filter after I drain the existing oil out, and then start the engine,

or

Should I add the 3 quarts of cheap oil, junk filter, warm up the engine, and then add the cleaner?

I'd run the truck to warm the oil. Then drain the old stuff out. Then add the cheap oil + oil flush and the cheap throw away filter. Then run the engine for the recommended time. Then drain the oil again and replace the oil with good stuff and a good oil filter (k&N makes an oil filter).

FYI, when you look at the oil flush crap, all they are is lighter weight organic liquids. This will thin out your oil a bit and free up crud that forms internally.

Rick Norwood · 02-14-2005, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chembrad

I'd run the truck to warm the oil. Then drain the old stuff out. Then add the cheap oil + oil flush and the cheap throw away filter. Then run the engine for the recommended time. Then drain the oil again and replace the oil with good stuff and a good oil filter (k&N makes an oil filter).

FYI, when you look at the oil flush crap, all they are is lighter weight organic liquids. This will thin out your oil a bit and free up crud that forms internally.

Exactly what I did. Turned out great! Thanks for your post.

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