Amp pulling too much power?

BoNkA10 · 01-28-2005, 08:41 PM

Alright, I'm looking at possibly running around 1500 watts RMS for my sub's amp (also have an amp for the speakers, but don't currently have the wattage for that). I assume this is going to be too much for the electical system. Basically need to know what I'd have to upgrade (alternator), what to look for, and how much it would cost, as I have no idea about this stuff. Thanks.

TreeFrog · 01-28-2005, 10:17 PM

i'm pulling about 1200 RMS. I have a 1 farad stinnger cap, and a brand new 3yr warrenty battery.

I also have the factory premium audio so that stock amp makes the car pull more than it did in my accord. my lights dim like no tomorrow. I'd reconmend getting either a Stinger car audio battery, or at least a 5 farad cap. And make sure if you keep your stock battery that its new and in good shape with clean connectors. don't screw around there. systems are hard on batterys. make sure you have a good one, or some day your car isn't going to start.

You don't need a new alternator, that won't help nothing. Lights dim because they suck my cap dry in a second and the battery is too far away to give them the juice they need fast enough. What's an alternator going to do? You only need those when going to a lot higher level. you could put a second battery in your trunk and still not nessesaraly need a new alternator.

BoNkA10 · 01-28-2005, 10:32 PM

Well I have a Gel Cell battery I had put in my old Breeze sitting around waiting to be put in the Eclipse, but I'm not sure about the specs on it.

For some reason I thought the alternator had something to do with it. And those 1200-1500 watts I should be pulling (plus the amp for the speakers) is for an amp that's between 60-70% efficient, so it's really pulling more.

soccer_aholic · 01-30-2005, 02:22 PM

If you are running that much power it doesn't matter what kind of battery you get, it is still going to draw to much power and kill the battery faster then it should. what you need is atleast a new 140 Amp alternator. you could probably get one for around $400 if you look hard. But yeah get an alternator and then a good battery that will allow you to draw the power you want when you want it.

Urban_Squrill · 02-01-2005, 10:20 AM

In my friends grand am he is pulling like 2500rms, he has a second battery in the back and before we put his 170amp alternator it still dimed like a bitch. With that alternator he can jump my car real fast

blue94eagletalon · 02-04-2005, 09:31 AM

but isnt there a way to just get a bigger alternator so you will have more power and a cap?

bighauns · 02-04-2005, 07:23 PM

You need an Alternator!!! Maybe get a battery but a cap is the least of your worries. If you get a cap and no alternator then the alternator us just going to try its damndest to charge the cap after you use it all. And if you get a battery and no alternator then your battery is just going to get worn down fast as well. Just get a high performance alternator number one, and then get a battery next. A capacitor will not solve your problems. You do not need a second battery in the back either, just get a proper alternator. There are units out there that produce full power at only 800rpms as well, so that is cool. The higher the amperage the better, because remember that you are not buying an alternator for only your stereo but the rest of your car as well.

BoNkA10 · 02-04-2005, 07:37 PM

Exactly. And I do have a battery already.

helliviknow · 02-04-2005, 07:42 PM

as far as if you need a new alternator i wouldnt even look at watts. look at how many amps the amp/amps will pull. if it has a 60 amp fuse that means it wont pull mor than 60. and it prolly only goes to 60 on peaks so figure even on cars with 90 amp alternators it shouldnt go over what the alternator produces. what you gotta remember is its not drawing 60 amps continuous, only peak, and your can can produce 90 continuous.

now if its a 80 amp fuse or a 60 and 20 do the math. i used 60 for example. there is more power drawn from other accessories but i wouldnt worry about it too much. caps help a bit too.

BoNkA10 · 02-04-2005, 07:46 PM

The amp has a max draw of 130 amps, so I need a bigger one.

TreeFrog · 02-04-2005, 09:32 PM

i really doubt you need an alternator with that set up, a new alternator is the LAST thing you do, after a second battery ect. it sounds like you WANT a new alternator. go ahead be my guest.

BoNkA10 · 02-04-2005, 09:43 PM

People are looking at this too many ways. With an alternator, I'm going to have my battery juiced up to run everything in the car, just not the audio. With a capacitor, yeah it'll help the audio but nothing else. And with a 2nd battery, how am I going to keep that juiced? It also isn't really helping the rest of the car.

An alternator makes the most sense in the end as it's the best all around.

bighauns · 02-04-2005, 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TreeFrog

i really doubt you need an alternator with that set up, a new alternator is the LAST thing you do, after a second battery ect. it sounds like you WANT a new alternator. go ahead be my guest.

AN ALTERNATOR IS NOT THE LAST THING YOU DO!!! An alternator is the beginning point on the whole electrical charging system in a car. Think about it...

If you have an amp that drains the battery, then your alternator (which in case you dont know, charges the battery) will try and try and try to charge the battery up again. If your alternator is not big enough to charge the battery as fast or faster than the amp is going to pull power then you are going to fry your alternator. The same thing goes with a capacitor, all a capacitor does is store power for when the amp really needs it. Then if that is happening all the time your battery is going to try and charge it up again.

As for the 130amps, it will peak higher than that. For example, an Alpine MRD-M500 which is 500W RMS, fused at 60A easlily hits 70-75A. So if the amp can draw 130A you are going to be draining the electrical system.

The only way to solve this issue is by going straight to the source of the electricity which is the alternator. 130A is not a small amount.

He needs an alternator, there is no question about it, do not try and dispute it. That is why people go through alternators like mad, because they think all they need is a deep cycle battery and they are set. But if it continues to die and die and die because of a lack of power then the battery is just going to get shittier and shittier along with the alternator that can not charge it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoNkA10

People are looking at this too many ways. With an alternator, I'm going to have my battery juiced up to run everything in the car, just not the audio. With a capacitor, yeah it'll help the audio but nothing else. And with a 2nd battery, how am I going to keep that juiced? It also isn't really helping the rest of the car.

An alternator makes the most sense in the end as it's the best all around.

You are definately on the right track!! The only thing I could say differently would be that when you are thinking that a cpacitor is helping the audio, it really isnt, kind of. By having a cap, it will only be so useful on a system like that because of the fact that the battery will not be able to charge the cap and power the amp so you will actually be worse off in regards to audio and overall operation.

BoNkA10 · 02-04-2005, 11:56 PM

Yeah, I have my eye on a 135A alternator since the max draw from my amp is 130 (shouldn't go higher than that).

bighauns · 02-05-2005, 04:47 PM

I had a 140A Alternator with a system that was only pushing 500W RMS and I still had dimming issues at times, very minimal though. And that was at idle. If you can find a bigger one, go for it. Because remember, you are not just powering your system but your whole car.

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