Heater Core Flush?

[BlazerLT]

remember, new rad cap

[CSR44]

10-4 on the new cap. I know this is not the proper way, but I did the carwash trick on the core to back flush and it worked. I wish I had a heated garage so I can run cleaner through it with straight water, I'm to nervous with these cold temps to try and run it for 3-6 hrs. with h2o.

[BlazerLT]

Originally Posted by CSR44

10-4 on the new cap. I know this is not the proper way, but I did the carwash trick on the core to back flush and it worked. I wish I had a heated garage so I can run cleaner through it with straight water, I'm to nervous with these cold temps to try and run it for 3-6 hrs. with h2o.

Take it to a shop and have it done properly.

[DaveLance]

I went to the parts store (Autozone) to get a new rad cap and they didn't have a 15 psi cap. The guy told me that anything between 13 and 17 psi would be fine. Is that true? I figure that if the system is made to be 15, it should stay 15, or is there a safety margin? Any help will be appreciated.

[blazee]

You can get a 16psi Stant from Advance Auto. The Stant brand are high quality and will last a long time.

[Rick Norwood]

My 2000 Jimmy had the same issue with little to no heat, gurgling sound on passenger side of truck. A quick inspection of the fluid level showed a little low but the coolant was still clear and orange. I did a self flush at home by removing both heater hoses completely from the heater core fittings and connecting a garden hose (with the end cut off) with a hose clamp directly to the smaller heater core hose fitting after running the Prestone "Flush" (not Cleaner) through it. I also flushed the engine block using the heater hose that goes into the top of the block. Everything seems to be working fine, plenty of heat and no more gurgling. But nothing beats a properly performed reverse flush. If your system was neglected it is the only sure way to get all of the crud out of you system. I also recommend that you never put tap water into your radiator. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYs use DISTILLED Water. NOT bottled drinking water, go to the grocery store and buy DISTILLED WATER. It costs about $.50 a gal and is well worth the trouble.

[BlazerLT]

don't get one that is less than 15psi.

16psi is fine.

[Phoenix69]

Hey guys, I drive a 1997 grand prix GT ( I know it is different) but i also experience the same problems above. Mechanics performed a flush but that did not solve the problem and perhaps made it worse. Should i perform the flush myself? Any suggestions?

[blazee]

Originally Posted by Phoenix69

Hey guys, I drive a 1997 grand prix GT ( I know it is different) but i also experience the same problems above. Mechanics performed a flush but that did not solve the problem and perhaps made it worse. Should i perform the flush myself? Any suggestions?

They probably did a half ass job. If the system is clogged it needs to be backflushed well and cleaned with a chemical flush. You can do a lot better job than most shops will do, but it is a little messy.

[BlazerLT]

Replace the cap as well.

All GM's with the stick cap are being affected by the poor cap.

[chcknugget]

Originally Posted by Phoenix69

Hey guys, I drive a 1997 grand prix GT ( I know it is different) but i also experience the same problems above. Mechanics performed a flush but that did not solve the problem and perhaps made it worse. Should i perform the flush myself? Any suggestions?

They might have done the flush incorrectly, but chances are you have airlock. I agree that you shouldn't use "ghetto flushes" to make up for neglecting your cooling system, but if you have maintained your fluids well or even payed a shop to flush and fill, more flushes might not get the air out of there.

[blazee]

If you want to do it yourself, follow one of these methods;

For system with Sludge:

Buy the following:
2 gallons of distilled water $1
2 gallons of Dexcool $20
Prestone Flush 'N Fill kit $4
Prestone Radiator "Flush" $4

Turn your heater on and leave it on for the entire process

Drain the anitfreeze from the system.

Install the "T" from the Flush 'N Fill kit and follow the directions that came with it.

Disconnect the water hose, close all the drains, add the Prestone Flush, fill with water, get engine up to operating temperature and run for 20 minutes, allow to cool then, drain the system.

Connect your water hose to the Flush 'N Fill "T" and flush one more time. Drain.

Fill the system with a 50/50 mix of DexCool and distilled water. Continue to fill the system over the next few days as the air is worked out of the system.








For clogged, neglicted, or extremely dirty systems:

Buy the following:

2 gallons of distilled water $1
2 gallons of Dexcool $20
Prestone Flush 'N Fill kit $4
Prestone Radiator "cleaner" not "flush" $6

Turn your heater on and leave it on for the entire process

Drain the anitfreeze from the system.

Install the "T" from the Flush 'N Fill kit and follow the directions that came with it.

Disconnect the water hose, close all the drains, add the Prestone Cleaner, fill with water, run the engine 3-6 hours (you can leave it in for a few days if neccessary), drain the system.

Connect your water hose to the Flush 'N Fill "T" and flush one more time. Drain.

Fill the system with a 50/50 mix of DexCool and distilled water. Continue to fill the system over the next few days as the air is worked out of the system.

[blazee]

BlazerLT,

How about putting my last post on a sticky for radiator maintenance, you should probably add to change the rad cap though.

[BlazerLT]

Will consider it when the condensing commenses.

[Phoenix69]

This airlock you speak of, is there a good chance i can solve it by the methods you listed? Mechanics tell me that the heater core typically needs to be replaced? Is this usually the case or does a thourough flushing/cleansing take care of it most of the time?