The COMPLETE 92-00 Civic Owners Engine Swapping Guide!!

[CivicSpoon]

ya know what, I forgot I got my computer back with all my links (it has been almost a year so forgive me). Here's some info that will be helpful:
http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/sohcvtec.html
http://www.angelfire.com/d20/hcivic8...d16z6swap.html

[sprayedlude93]

Hey everyone. I was reading through here trying to understand some things. This thread helped a lot. I am a H22 Prelude guy comming over to the EG side of things now. I always wanted a clean white 92-95 hatch with a H swap. So I thought now I might have my chance. Someone is selling a 93 white 5spd Vx with 220k on it. I'm thinking about getting it.

First I was going to relax with the motor and transfer my attention to the suspension. After that I then wans going to do the swap. I hope she holds up though with tho miles. I don't know anything about D series motors. This motor burns a little oil, but I thought maybe with a little bit of love and granny driver she will last me through the summer (since I should be done with all the suspension work by then). Then in the winter I can work on a motor.

Now like I mentioned above I wanted to swap in a H22. I can get JDM H22's engines for about 1k, then a trans for about $300 - $900 depending on if I want LSD or not. I know from reading this article and the H22 into the EG specific article that I will need to send my harness out (i'd prefer it that one. Once n done), I need special mounts, and a few other parts. I think I could honestly do the whole swap for around $3k. Especially since the K series got everyone's attn lately. But after reading all of this I thought hmmm maybe a B16 since from what I gather, drops right in with no mount mods and a ECU upgrade. So now I'm stuck. I know if I go with the H22 I will be really happy since I always wanted a H22 EG after I was done with my BB4 Pre. Plus I'm sure stock the q/t mile times would be A LOT better. Which swap would be less stressful to do? Just looking for opinions, pointers etc.

Also like I said I don't know much about the D series motor. Since this hatch has 220k on it and it burns a little oil do you think has long has I give it a tune up, use good oil, drive like a granny (lol actually I don't beat my cars anyhow. no more then a occasionally 5k rev while driving once n a blue moon - If I want to do that I go to the track or better yet a Auto X event and drive my car the way it was built to drive), should the little motor last me a while long yet?

Thanks a lot.

[pica100000]

Originally Posted by sprayedlude93

Hey everyone. I was reading through here trying to understand some things. This thread helped a lot. I am a H22 Prelude guy comming over to the EG side of things now. I always wanted a clean white 92-95 hatch with a H swap. So I thought now I might have my chance. Someone is selling a 93 white 5spd Vx with 220k on it. I'm thinking about getting it.

First I was going to relax with the motor and transfer my attention to the suspension. After that I then wans going to do the swap. I hope she holds up though with tho miles. I don't know anything about D series motors. This motor burns a little oil, but I thought maybe with a little bit of love and granny driver she will last me through the summer (since I should be done with all the suspension work by then). Then in the winter I can work on a motor.

Now like I mentioned above I wanted to swap in a H22. I can get JDM H22's engines for about 1k, then a trans for about $300 - $900 depending on if I want LSD or not. I know from reading this article and the H22 into the EG specific article that I will need to send my harness out (i'd prefer it that one. Once n done), I need special mounts, and a few other parts. I think I could honestly do the whole swap for around $3k. Especially since the K series got everyone's attn lately. But after reading all of this I thought hmmm maybe a B16 since from what I gather, drops right in with no mount mods and a ECU upgrade. So now I'm stuck. I know if I go with the H22 I will be really happy since I always wanted a H22 EG after I was done with my BB4 Pre. Plus I'm sure stock the q/t mile times would be A LOT better. Which swap would be less stressful to do? Just looking for opinions, pointers etc.

Also like I said I don't know much about the D series motor. Since this hatch has 220k on it and it burns a little oil do you think has long has I give it a tune up, use good oil, drive like a granny (lol actually I don't beat my cars anyhow. no more then a occasionally 5k rev while driving once n a blue moon - If I want to do that I go to the track or better yet a Auto X event and drive my car the way it was built to drive), should the little motor last me a while long yet?

Thanks a lot.

if you have a prelude already forget about that vx hatch and dumping
money into a swap for it just to get a quicker 1/4 mile, itl only tear your
engine up and wasted money and hard work . instead dump your money
into what you got and turn your prelude into a badass looking top speed
runner. in my opinion drag racing is for pro competition that sponsors
supply lots of money into a car just to get a fraction of a second better
time to win. and its over in what seconds. most amatuers doing it just
for fun only reach certain 1/4 mile times for the money they can put
in it , but those times have been done over and over, instead i would focus
on building a highly tuned turbo engine thats reliable with big turbo and find out on
the gearing you need for the transmission to reach good top speeds like
200mph+ not many out there that can do that. thats what im doing with my civic, got a fat turbo on it and swap the transmission for a integra typeR S80, running round 176 mph but still improving.lol

[pica100000]

Originally Posted by kidlongcut

I want to swap my stock engine for a vtec engine here is what i found looking around for the last few days.I found a type-R B16B DOHC VTEC
190 hp@7600
torque 2116 lb-ft@7300
redline 8200 rpm
displacment 159cc
compression ratio 10.4:1

This alos comes with a type hydraulic transmission

list of parts included
complete motor
block
intake manifold
complete head
sensors
exhaust manifold
fuel rail
injectors
distributor
throttle body
alternator
starter
ignition wires
a/c compressor
power steering pump
headers

obd2 ecu ( computer )

5 speed fwd hydraulic LSD transmission with clutch components assembled to engine

engine mounts

yonaka motorsports drive shafts


I want to know if this would be the best swap for my civic the price on the setup above is 4500.00 plus shipping .I have around 10 k to spend on the motor as of right now i may invest more than this in the future.I will install the motor with friend at his shop to save me the cost .
I want to know what upgrades i should do on the motor first to get the most out of it if someone could help me out here it sure would help me out a lot .
thx guys

i would go with the b16b if you want a natuarlly aspirated high rev engine
b16b is the top on this plus rare engine, if you have that much to spend
if going turbo id still get it and swap the block in for a sleeved one which
costs around 1000.00 and put the b16b head back on it. nothing has to
be done to the head for turbo except get double valve springs, cams on it
are fine. by experience any way you go for big power will cost about the
same just depends on how hard you make it for yourself getting it there.
oh if you have that much to spend consider darts block for hondas it has
sleeved block closed deck design and steel main journals costs around 2000.00 though but if going turbo its money well spent, i have one and you
cant beat it.

heres the order i would do buy the engine , put it on a engine stand
remove the crank,rods, pistons, everything on the block . remove the
head put it aside, get a sleeved block , put the stock crank back in with
forged pistons,rods, cometic head gasket, swap oil pump gear for a forged
one , get arp head studs, put a moroso 5 qt capacity oil pan with turbo
fittings already on it , mount head back on it. put a jg intake on your head
70mm throttle body, 1000cc rc injectors, fat turbo , boost controller, and
a computer to run it all. any thing else is for shit and a waste of money.
note get your block sleeves honed and bored with a piston to wall clearance of .006 for turbo, reason for 1000cc injectors is because it
supplys plenty of fuel on stock fuel pressure with out having to upgrade
your entire fuel system. going to spend that much do it right.

[sprayedlude93]

Originally Posted by pica100000

if you have a prelude already forget about that vx hatch and dumping
money into a swap for it just to get a quicker 1/4 mile, itl only tear your
engine up and wasted money and hard work . instead dump your money
into what you got and turn your prelude into a badass looking top speed
runner. in my opinion drag racing is for pro competition that sponsors
supply lots of money into a car just to get a fraction of a second better
time to win. and its over in what seconds. most amatuers doing it just
for fun only reach certain 1/4 mile times for the money they can put
in it , but those times have been done over and over, instead i would focus
on building a highly tuned turbo engine thats reliable with big turbo and find out on
the gearing you need for the transmission to reach good top speeds like
200mph+ not many out there that can do that. thats what im doing with my civic, got a fat turbo on it and swap the transmission for a integra typeR S80, running round 176 mph but still improving.lol

lol- dude
I'm not really going to run it in the q/m a lot. A handful of times (5 or 6 runs - 1 or 2 visits), but that's it. If anything I would run it for what the parts were made for and that's Auto X. I wanted to build a solid, clean set up. Again no riced out gay-ass kits, faggish altezza's etc. Also I am not going to waste my money on a Turb set up. That's fine for some, but I'm not into that. I'm into N/A. That's how my lude is and that's how any other Honda I get will stay. Also I was lmao when you were talking about reaching speeds of 200mph+. I'm no longer in the Military so I doubt I will be going over to the Auto-bahn anytime soon haha.

[pica100000]

Originally Posted by sprayedlude93

lol- dude
I'm not really going to run it in the q/m a lot. A handful of times (5 or 6 runs - 1 or 2 visits), but that's it. If anything I would run it for what the parts were made for and that's Auto X. I wanted to build a solid, clean set up. Again no riced out gay-ass kits, faggish altezza's etc. Also I am not going to waste my money on a Turb set up. That's fine for some, but I'm not into that. I'm into N/A. That's how my lude is and that's how any other Honda I get will stay. Also I was lmao when you were talking about reaching speeds of 200mph+. I'm no longer in the Military so I doubt I will be going over to the Auto-bahn anytime soon haha.

sorry didnt know you was going that way with it. n/a is still respectable
too. b16 is easier install, if you go h22 though and find you need to swap
out parts to piece it all together ,if you dont already know hondaparts unlimited has everything down to bolts for all honda/acura cars with picture
graphs of how everything is assembled, great source for oem parts. that
site has help me immensley with my swap.

[CivicSpoon]

If you're really looking for power, comparing the H22a and the b16a is like apples and oranges. The b16a swap will be a lot easier to do, but the h22a swap isn't rocket science either. And even if you get frustrated or ticked off doing the h22a swap, you'll still be happier with the end result over the b16a.

My friend bought a '92 VX years ago and it was in pretty bad shape too; burning some oil, wheel bearings shot, and a few minor problems. I forget exactly how many miles it had on it, but it was some where around 200,000. But that engine lasted a long time. In fact he swapped the vx engine into his 4dr lx, when he decided to move his turbo'd h22a setup to the much lighter hatch; that was about 2 years ago. And he JUST got rid of the engine at the beginning of winter, and the engine had just started dieing out. The D-series engines are crazy resilient. People abuse them and have little problem. I drove mine 25+ miles on the highway with literally NO coolant (radiator blew up without me knowing), and It's still driving today. There's a video online of some kids trying to blow up a d-series; with water and dirt put into it, as well as taking a sledge hammer to the valve cover. The damn thing still drove.

But back on topic. If you go with the h22a, just make sure to get a good suspension, I can't stress this enough (especially if you're going to auto X it).

[bigcubanboss]

i have a 1994 honda civic dx <not a hatch> it has a gsr transmission and a b16 a2 it turns over strong but will not start the check engine light gave an engine code 10 so i replaced the ait senser i also replaced the distributor it wont start but turns over strong it has good compression and the timimg belt isnt broken can u help me?

[slim420832002]

with a 92-95 HB how much would it cost me in parts to swap a K20 (the RSX motor i think im correct on that) and what parts r needed does anyone have the specs on it and pricesrunaround

[BlazingHatch]

I have a 94 Civic Hatch and it has a B20b block, B18 head with a compression ratio of 11.0 to 1 it has a 00 civic si tranny with stage three clutch, is there anyway of slapping a turbo package on it and still be reliable?

[nwatt]

hey thanks 4 da info, i got a question i did a engine swap but i didnt change da ecu, my car is sputtering wen i idle n wen i accelerate. Is is becuz i need a 96 ecu or is it the idle control valve?