2000 Windstar reverse problem

[olopezm]

Hello again people!

Today I had a problem with my transmission AGAIN, before I start I would like to let you know the transmission was "rebuilt" a year ago (about 5k miles); I replaced the TRS a month ago; and new fluid and filter a week ago.

I know the guy made a crappy job because he didn't put any new sensors in it, he only did new clutches.... I know, don't ask .

Anyway, as I was reversing into my garage and when braking/ holding the brake while in reverse, the transmission started to slam in and out of gear (only reverse) it seemed to happen only when braking.

As far as I can tell it only happens after a long distance (I drove about 100 miles) and tranny seems to work better when cold.

Also I know I need a new VSS because the speedometer starts to jump back and forth above 55MPH, I'm planning to replace it ASAP.

My question is if the VSS could be causing my problem? and what other symptoms could I expect to happen with a bad VSS?.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Regards,

Oscar.

[trannyman52]

the vss really has nothing to do with reverse,,,that is a hydraulic position,,,,should have reverse even with trans unplugged,,,,,vss basically runs your speedo,,,,and gives speed signal to computer to calculate shift points......not quite that simple,,,,but that is the short of it....that trans has had problems with 2 piece {bonded} pistons,,,,,,must be replaced with 1 piece pistons.......

[Windstartled]

Originally Posted by olopezm

My question is if the VSS could be causing my problem?

I concur with other poster that faulty VSS is unlikely to interfere with reverse operation.

and what other symptoms could I expect to happen with a bad VSS?

In my experience with a bad VSS the most obvious issues apart from funky speedometer readings is untimely -and sometimes quite brutal- shifting points and the resulting poor gas mileage. IMHO it is not worth living with a bad VSS for extended periods of time.

[olopezm]

Thank you for your quick responses guys.

About the VSS I can tell shifting feels a bit harsh sometimes, specially when overtaking another car and also the shifting takes longer (only 2nd to 3rd gear) so now I think I know those 2 problems should go away after replacing the VSS.

About the pistons, I guess that's not what I really wanted to hear LOL. So...

1.- Replacing the pistons should take care of it?
2.- how hard is it to replace them? I know in some transmissions these can be reached from the pan, is that the same with the AX4S/N?
3.- why it's only happening after long drives? I just drove it with no problems like yesterday...
4.- replacing ALL pistons for once and for all would be the best thing right?
5.- Finally what other symptoms could the pistons cause? Maybe slow engaging from P,N to gear (R,D)?

Thanks in advance,

Oscar.

[olopezm]

Sorry I meant to say access the pistons trough the side cover where the valve body is. I'm just learning about transmissions.

UPDATE 1:

http://www.transtec.com/rebuilder_news/2nd_q96r-n.pdf

I foud this link with information about the AX4N and in page 6 they say:

"Every clutch piston in this unit, except the reverse clutch, is a bonded assembly."

So I guess that would discard a bad piston and indicate another problem, right?

Oscar.

[olopezm]

Now that I think of it I've been feeling a small shudder when stopping almost completely at a red light, like something disengages (feels like the transmission wants to keep going but the brakes won't let it, so eventually the PCM finally commands the tranny to stop)

I just read that a neutral to drive accumulator can cause the same symptoms, what do you guys think?

Oscar.

UPDATE 2:

Ok so I've been reading the whole day about this, just read another webpage and found this:

"Shift Linkage Check

Check for a misadjustment in shift linkage by matching the detents in the transaxle range selector lever with those in the transaxle. If they match, the misadjustment is in the indicator. Do not adjust the shift linkage.

Hydraulic leakage at the manual control valve can cause delay in engagements or slipping while operating if the linkage is not correctly adjusted."

After a lot of tries I still haven't been able to make the transmission detents match the shift indicator. The further the lever travels (towards 1 gear) the more out of adjustment it is.

Do you think it could be my problem?

Oscar.

[olopezm]

Hello again,

I just uploaded a video. It's not of a great quality but if you raise the volume a little you can notice the harsh shift at 0:21 seconds. Also you can see how misaligned the shift indicator is, but that's not my main concern, I'll check the torx screws under the dash.

Also I noticed the RPM's drop too much when selecting gear, the gear slams in and the clunk can be heard, then RPM's go back to normal idling speed. It can be seen in the video too. Do you think some mechanical problem could cause the transmission problem I'm having?

I hope somebody can shed some light. Thanks in advance,

Oscar.

Whatch the video here

[trannyman52]

could be me,,,,,,i have never heard of a nuteral to drive accumulator!!!!...the shift indicator on the dash has nothing to do with what is going on in the tranny,,,,when you feel the "click" of the shifter,,,,,,,,,p,,,,r,,,,n,,,,od,,,,d,,,,,l that is the range the transmission is in no matter what the dash indicator says....You talk about the PCM commanding the trans to stop.....stop what?????? The job of the PCM is to regulate oil pressure in trans,,,raise line pressure under high throttle demand,,,high torque load....lower line pressure under low throttle demand,,,,low torque load ,,,so as not to have harsh shifts........I want to help you ,,,but you are all over the place,,,I don't argue that some of the issues you are having could be related,,,,,but the things you are looking at are totally in the wrong direction........
To start with to "Re-build" this trans like an old THM-350 is asking for it to fail!!!!!! There is issues with the pistons,,,,issues with pump shaft,,,,lubrication issues,,,,last but not least electronic issues..to try to figure what is going wrong now ,,,,,well,,,....
From your origional posts,,,the only thing I would try would be to replace the PCM///PWM,,,,what ever you want to call it ....the fact that it regulates line pressure would suggest that pressure is all over the place and not being regulated,,,,this could account for no reverse or weak reverse under hot conditions ,,,,maybe,,,,,This could account for bangy engagements,,,,maybe,,,,,...This assumes that the trans has the guts re-built correctly......Tried to upload a pic of the valvebody but you can google that.......The pcm/pwm is the large solenoid at the top left of valve body ..The one right below it is the torque converter lock solenoid,,,,to the right ,,,three in a row are the shift solenoids,,,i think they are marked 1/2 2/3 3/4......At least replace pcm/pwm solenoid with a NEW one,,,not used junk,,,the rest can be re-used ,,,would prefer you replace them,,,your call.....drive this thing before repair ,,,feel the shifts 1/2 2/3 converter lock,,,3/4......if all shifts are there ,,,shift solenoids are ok,,,,,if need replacement,,,1/2 2/3 3/4 solenoids are interchangeable...This can all be done through removal of the side cover,,,,kind of a bitch ,,,but it can be done....If this doesn't resolve the problem,,,removal and re-check how rebuild was done.....sorry for the long rant
gbaum

[olopezm]

Thanks for your input, I guess there are some things that need to be clarified first

Well as you MUST already noticed I know NOTHING about transmissions, just like many other users in the forum. I have more experience with engine problems but that´s it. And UNLIKE many other members I´M WILLING TO LEARN AND "DO SOME HOMEWORK" when I have a problem, I won't sit and wait until somebody else advises. If I can find something useful I will post it in the forum in order to "help" other members help me, or help other members with similar/related problems.

If I'm all over the place it's because, again, I know NOTHING and I've been reading many different webpages since yesterday. I will explain where I came up with each comment:

1.- Bonded pistons You mentioned the problems with these transmission are the bonded pistons. OK, I take into account your comment and start to SEARCH more information about it. When I finally find some "useful" information all I can see on page 6 of this PDF from post #5 is the reverse clutch piston IS NOT a bonded assembly, the rest are. If this is true, then the suggestion you made would make no difference with my problem; but since I just realized that might only apply for AX4N, I guess mine's (AX4S) must be still bonded assemblies; AGAIN I'm not the expert, but if you confirm the information about bonded pistons, I will be thankful and will replace all of them.
2.- Neutral to Drive accumulator I found that in wikipedia and this site confirms the existence of it under "Internal parts". I've tried to search for it in my diagrams but cannot seem to find it. If you confirm there is/isn't such thing, again, I will be thankful to you.
3.-Shift lever I found this when reading the shop repair manual; in page 6 of the "ShiftLinkage" PDF I've uploaded you can read such information. If it comes from ford I guess it's worth to have a look at it isn't?
4.-PCM You just said PCM controls line pressures, solenoids, etc. so IT DOES commands the transsmision, you said it, I didn't... When I wrote post #6 I was trying to give a picture of other symptom I have; changing my previous description I would say something seems to be stuck when coming to a stop, it feels like a small hit from the rear for a second just before the van completely stops. Another stuck piston? Bad seal?. Don't know...

I would like to ask you if the Transmission Fluid Temperature sensor could be bad and giving the wrong readings to the PCM causing it to improperly regulate the fluid pressure?

Finally I must say that I can shift normally through all gears, which would indicate the solenoids are OK.

I really appreciate your help trannyman52.

Regards,

Oscar.

[trannyman52]

I understand you are not an expert on transmissions,,,,,,hell i have been playing with this junk for 25 years and every one i open up is a new set of problems,,,the answers usually are not the same as the last one I worked on.......Most info out there deals with assembly ,,,rebuilding ,,,the such....I guess the thought is ,,,if you rebuild right ,,,,it works!!!!!NOW the real world,,,,,what do you do when it doesn't???? Information for this condition does not exsist.....
Every point you have looked at could be an issue,,,but this tranny worked for a while so 98% of what you are questioning are a waste of time....
The computer system of control is not as smart as you are giving it credit to do....
Basically it takes signals from engine {speed} {torque load} the other ,,,vss ,,which tells it how fast car is moving,,,,,with that info ,,,,the system then turns off/on shift solenoids in different combinations to give different gear range 1st,,,2nd,,,3rd,,,and so on.......The computer also sends a signal to the PWM which raises or lowers line pressure in valve body,,,this is done to protect trans from slipping and keeps shift feel in a range that the driver is happy.....PWM does not care if car is standing still ,,or going down the road......
Back to the problem......I think to replace pwm might solve the problem because when you come to a stop,,,,pressure should fall,,,when this happens shift valves should return to the closed or nuteral position,,,ready to upshift again as you accelerate from stop....
If pwm does not function properly,,,,can cause valves to hang,,,then you get strange things happening,,,like the tranny wants to get out of the car!!!!
The fact that this did work for a while makes this the only wild card,,,,every thing else would be issues that should have been there right after rebuild!!!!!!

I am not always on here ,,,,was posting for info for my junk ford pick up,,,came across this post...you can contact me at gbaum@email.com ......we'll make you an expert on this pile of junk........gbaum

temp sensor generally is used to keep trans from locking torque converter till engine warms up...more to do with EPA emission regulations,,,,and to get engine to {closed loop running}

[olopezm]

Thanks, will contact you via email ASAP and will post back any results here.

Oscar.

[olopezm]

Just a quick update:

I finally got the solenoid from the shop and now I'm just waiting from some time to replace it. But something new happened yesterday.

After starting the engine, I began to drive and the O/D off light started to flash quiclky (I know, transmission problems...). After stopping aside the road, turning the engine off and on again everything went back to normal. I drove 50 miles on the highway with no problems and reverse did not act up when reversing into my garage. I don't know what happened!

The only different thing I did was starting to drive when the RPM's where still at 1500 (fast idle) instead of letting them drop a little... I read during the past days in a thread that this might cause some problems. Could it be possible?. By the way I'm still trying to find that thread.

Do you think autozone's cheap scanner might be able to get any codes?.

Thanks in advance,

Oscar.

[tomj76]

I have a scanner that is the same (Actron) make as the code reader that AZ uses. My scanner reads transmission codes, so it's possible their code reader also reads them. I think I may have taken my van to AZ once before I had my scanner to read transmission codes. It certainly won't hurt to try.

[olopezm]

Thanks Tom, will do.

Regards,

Oscar.

[grog11]

Hi Oscar, Got your message, I know you had a rebuild a while back, and have to ask about warranty followup?
As an active member of this forum, I will assume you have checked fluid type,fluid level filter replacement, and all general maintenance issues have been maintained.
Do you have this torque converter shutter only in reverse and after your transmission has heated up?
I would suggest doing a coolant line volume flow test by removing the lower transmission cooling line from the transmission connection end after a 20 minute drive, and point it in a bucket to catch the atf fluid.Have someone start the vehicle while you watch the flow volume, it should be over 1 qt. in 15-30 seconds maximum.( Careful Hot Fluid Here) Shut down the engine, measure the amount.This will check fluid flow thru your radiator cooler for a blockage. If you have had a transmission failure the shop should have installed an inline filter in one of your lines, if they did not replace the radiator also.I don't know the background on your transmission failure.

You mention a shutter when you hit the brake pedal.You may have an electrical voltage drop from a short causing pwm computer trouble with command, and acknowledgements.You can check that wiring Do check the ground wires, and if you can also add an additional ground strap directly to the transmission bolt to assure a good ground, it is just a good idea

Get some electrical contact cleaner, and spray the trans range sensor connections internally to remove any film.Disconnect the battery and spray clean the computer electrical connector terminals on the firewall, passengers side This is a good idea to do to all your sensor connections really and then dielectric grease to prevent corrosion. VSS sensor, etc.

Trouble started after your TRS sensor replacement, carefully check wiring in that area, and it is possible your new sensor is failing internally, is it a motorcraft replacement or quality replacement? Some of the parts stuff sold is just not up to standards.

Transmission filter went on tight right when changed? Were there a lot of bad particles on the magnet and pan bottom? How did the old fluid look?