Smoke started coming out of my vents (blower motor, relay, fuse???)

[oneroundko]

Hopefully I'll get a response or two (this forum seems to have changed...sorry don't get here as often as maybe used to).


I inherited my dad's 2000 Ford Taurus (not sure exactly the model but it has power windows but not power locks - it was a DOT fleet car, if that helps), it has quite a few miles on it (210k) but that 3.0 engine is solid.


This Spring I started it and turned the blower motor on - haven't been getting heat which I think I do need to replace the heater core, not sure if that has anything to do with this -


The vents started smoking (smoke started coming out of vents) and then the blower motor stopped working all together.


My dad did have issues with mice getting into his car (he parked this one many winters here in MN and they were getting in there).


Is this a fuse issue?

A relay issue?

Mice were eating wires issue?

Blower motor issue?

Heater core issue?


Can anyone give me an idea? Would be greatly appreciated.

[shorod]

Well, the issue could be just about any of the possibilities you listed, or a combination of them.

Was the material definitely smoke (smelled like something burning) or did it have a sweet smell to it?

Does the blower motor work on any speeds, particularly high speed?

Were you getting good air flow initial when the smoke started?

Do you have a multimeter or test light, understand how to use it, and are you willing to climb around on the passenger floor to do some diagnostics?

-Rod

[oneroundko]

Originally Posted by shorod

Well, the issue could be just about any of the possibilities you listed, or a combination of them.

Was the material definitely smoke (smelled like something burning) or did it have a sweet smell to it?

Does the blower motor work on any speeds, particularly high speed?

Were you getting good air flow initial when the smoke started?

Do you have a multimeter or test light, understand how to use it, and are you willing to climb around on the passenger floor to do some diagnostics?

-Rod

It was definitely smoke. I thought the engine might have been on fire or something was on fire. It scared the c-ap out of me.

Blower motor doesn't work at all anymore - not on high or low or any setting. Prior to the smoke the air did blow out fine - but I think the heater core had been bad before the smoking incident.


I think I have a multimeter somewhere around here.

[shorod]

If no speeds for the blower motor work, including High speed, that at least means the blower motor resistor is not at fault, or at least not the only fault. Since you're positive it was smoke and was quickly followed by no more fan, there's a VERY good chance the blower motor has failed. This may have also caused 40A fuse F208 in the Central Junction Box to blow.

Often a failing blower motor is preceded by a chirp, squeal, or the inability to start up on slower fan speeds. But that's typically a bearing/bushing failure. It sounds more like what happened in your case is a failure of the windings and the enamel from the internal magnet wire burning off.

At this point it probably makes most sense to pull the blower motor and check the squirrel cage for signs of rodent infestation or, if you're like my parents, napkins that got sucked in from the overflowing glove box and Max A/C setting. If the blower motor has obviously failed, then also check F208 before installing a new blower motor assembly.

-Rod

[oneroundko]

Originally Posted by shorod

If no speeds for the blower motor work, including High speed, that at least means the blower motor resistor is not at fault, or at least not the only fault. Since you're positive it was smoke and was quickly followed by no more fan, there's a VERY good chance the blower motor has failed. This may have also caused 40A fuse F208 in the Central Junction Box to blow.

Often a failing blower motor is preceded by a chirp, squeal, or the inability to start up on slower fan speeds. But that's typically a bearing/bushing failure. It sounds more like what happened in your case is a failure of the windings and the enamel from the internal magnet wire burning off.

At this point it probably makes most sense to pull the blower motor and check the squirrel cage for signs of rodent infestation or, if you're like my parents, napkins that got sucked in from the overflowing glove box and Max A/C setting. If the blower motor has obviously failed, then also check F208 before installing a new blower motor assembly.

-Rod

Thank you for the response. Much appreciated.


I will check some of the stuff you listed. Very happy you have given me at least a little sign of light.

[oneroundko]

Originally Posted by shorod

If no speeds for the blower motor work, including High speed, that at least means the blower motor resistor is not at fault, or at least not the only fault. Since you're positive it was smoke and was quickly followed by no more fan, there's a VERY good chance the blower motor has failed. This may have also caused 40A fuse F208 in the Central Junction Box to blow.

Often a failing blower motor is preceded by a chirp, squeal, or the inability to start up on slower fan speeds. But that's typically a bearing/bushing failure. It sounds more like what happened in your case is a failure of the windings and the enamel from the internal magnet wire burning off.

At this point it probably makes most sense to pull the blower motor and check the squirrel cage for signs of rodent infestation or, if you're like my parents, napkins that got sucked in from the overflowing glove box and Max A/C setting. If the blower motor has obviously failed, then also check F208 before installing a new blower motor assembly.

-Rod

The 40A fuse was bad.



With that said, some new observations:


- All settings on the blower seem to work.

- But only the windshield setting will blow air out - the other vent settings do not seem to want to blow air out.

- There is a distinct sound (blower motor?) coming from the dash - sort of like a winding sound.


Any opinion on any of that? Was there something sucked into somewhere to have caused the other air settings not to work?

[oneroundko]

Looks like I spoke too soon. I came in and let the car run with the blower on and when I went back out there there was no air coming out anymore.

And from the looks of it the fuse wasn't burnt out.. So, whatever is going on seems to be more than just the fuse?

[oneroundko]

Originally Posted by shorod

If no speeds for the blower motor work, including High speed, that at least means the blower motor resistor is not at fault, or at least not the only fault. Since you're positive it was smoke and was quickly followed by no more fan, there's a VERY good chance the blower motor has failed. This may have also caused 40A fuse F208 in the Central Junction Box to blow.

Often a failing blower motor is preceded by a chirp, squeal, or the inability to start up on slower fan speeds. But that's typically a bearing/bushing failure. It sounds more like what happened in your case is a failure of the windings and the enamel from the internal magnet wire burning off.

At this point it probably makes most sense to pull the blower motor and check the squirrel cage for signs of rodent infestation or, if you're like my parents, napkins that got sucked in from the overflowing glove box and Max A/C setting. If the blower motor has obviously failed, then also check F208 before installing a new blower motor assembly.

-Rod

I guess I'll have to replace that blower motor.

[shorod]

If you saw and smelled smoke just before the air flow stopped, you probably at least need a new blower motor based on what you've mentioned above. But you may also have another issue, likely a vacuum leak, causing the air to only come from the defroster vents. The system uses vacuum to switch the doors that direct the air flow. The "fail safe" position, in the event of a loss of vacuum, is to the defrost position as that's the most important air flow direction in the event of failure. The vacuum leak is likely the "winding sound" you described.

-Rod

[oneroundko]

Originally Posted by shorod

If you saw and smelled smoke just before the air flow stopped, you probably at least need a new blower motor based on what you've mentioned above. But you may also have another issue, likely a vacuum leak, causing the air to only come from the defroster vents. The system uses vacuum to switch the doors that direct the air flow. The "fail safe" position, in the event of a loss of vacuum, is to the defrost position as that's the most important air flow direction in the event of failure. The vacuum leak is likely the "winding sound" you described.

-Rod

Seems that is correct. Blower motor works on all settings, but is stuck on that defrost position seems to be the only one.

Can i leave it in that position? As I have another issue that I needed to address prior to this mess: the heater core (or lack of heat at least) that I need to deal with before it's 1 degree outside here in Minnesota.

[shorod]

Sure, you can leave it to only function in the defrost setting. If you notice the engine starting to idle roughly you might want to fix the vacuum leak, but if the engine seems to be idling and running fine there's no real harm in not prioritizing this fix.

-Rod