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03-07-2003, 04:51 PM | #16 | |
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So, you read the whole post? I guess looks count for a lot, at least your some what better informed.
True. Crossdrilled rotors were developed for racing in the 50s when brakes pads sucked. They would off-gas at relatively low temperatures. The holes gave the gas somewhere to go. If not, it would get trapped between the rotor/pad and the pad would not make contact with the rotor. That is called "fade". Modern brake pads do not do this. True, if you take a street pad to the race track and exceed it's operating temperature, you can get it to fade. But I challenge you to get a Hawk Blue, or Porterfield R4 brake pad or other dedicated racing pad to fade. Ever. Simply, crossdrilled rotors fix a problem that no longer exists. quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Why? Because, when you drill holes in your rotors, they are designed to dissipate heat (not to rid of brake dust as most people think). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Surface area dissipates heat. The amount of surface you create from drilling holes is almost insignificant compared to the initial surface area of a standard OE vented. In additionx-drilled rotors will reach higher peak temperature because you are removing metal from the rotor. The metal is what absorbs the heat. Plus, you are reducing pad/surface interface. Tell me again why this is a good idea? quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I ask any local non-believers to take a ride in my car, I would be happy to allow them to drive it just so they can tell you about the brakes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I do not doubt your car stop well. Obviously, if you replace busted/worn out OE parts with new x-drilled parts, of course it's going to stop better. What I do doubt is that it stops better than regular new OE-style non-drilled/slotted rotors. I *garuntee* it does not. Don't believe me? Will you believe an engineer that designs automotive braking systems?
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R32 GTR w/351w .020 forged, 8.9:1, PTK T76, Turbosmart 40 BC & 45 WG, Tial 40 BV, AFR 205s 310/245, 228/228 550/550 114 Hydro, 1.7rr, Isky RLs, 4" HKS exhaust, ARC 30x16x4 IC, 8 point cage, C2 gauges, 2 step, C4 3200 stall w/ R Manual & Hurst Ratchet shifter, 17" Panasport G7s, CSU 750 & bonnet, Vic Jr intake, 3.63 gears, Corbeau Carrera seats, Custom wide body, Bomex side skirts and rear 1/4 caps, Tommy Kaira bumper. |
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03-07-2003, 06:35 PM | #17 | ||
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Quote:
Yeah it's true that looks count for alot. Especially if your aspiring to be winner or at least runner up at HIN; unfortunately, for me at least, I can't focus solely on looks because my brakes actually need to stop (the car I plan on entering into HIN is also my daily driver) That's why I wanted the best of every world. But from what you've given me crossdrilled rotors aren't required anymore. What about large diameter rotors with slots? Maybe I'll end up just getting high quality calipers/pads and large rotors. Brakes are actually my priority mod right now; so any advice will be taken gratefully. |
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03-07-2003, 11:03 PM | #18 | |
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Pnoi Q,
You might be a noobie, but at least you get it, unlike some others that cannot understand physics. Slots are OK, if you need the so called "bling, bling" effect, but will tell you this, I would never put crossdrilled brakes on my GTR. Its up to you, what you put on your car. If you want guidance from me, my brakes will have the most mass as possible, with cooling ducts, racing brake fluid, and some damn good pads. I do not know what Hondas have for aftermarket brake systems, but the set of brakes for my car will run about $3k.
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R32 GTR w/351w .020 forged, 8.9:1, PTK T76, Turbosmart 40 BC & 45 WG, Tial 40 BV, AFR 205s 310/245, 228/228 550/550 114 Hydro, 1.7rr, Isky RLs, 4" HKS exhaust, ARC 30x16x4 IC, 8 point cage, C2 gauges, 2 step, C4 3200 stall w/ R Manual & Hurst Ratchet shifter, 17" Panasport G7s, CSU 750 & bonnet, Vic Jr intake, 3.63 gears, Corbeau Carrera seats, Custom wide body, Bomex side skirts and rear 1/4 caps, Tommy Kaira bumper. |
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03-08-2003, 10:27 AM | #19 | |
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What brake kit are you using?
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03-08-2003, 03:51 PM | #20 | |
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Right now I am running the stock ones, but I have my eye on some APs, or maybe some Brembos.
I have a few more months to look into it. I never just take one source for my information and think thats gospel, so I am still doing research.
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R32 GTR w/351w .020 forged, 8.9:1, PTK T76, Turbosmart 40 BC & 45 WG, Tial 40 BV, AFR 205s 310/245, 228/228 550/550 114 Hydro, 1.7rr, Isky RLs, 4" HKS exhaust, ARC 30x16x4 IC, 8 point cage, C2 gauges, 2 step, C4 3200 stall w/ R Manual & Hurst Ratchet shifter, 17" Panasport G7s, CSU 750 & bonnet, Vic Jr intake, 3.63 gears, Corbeau Carrera seats, Custom wide body, Bomex side skirts and rear 1/4 caps, Tommy Kaira bumper. |
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03-10-2003, 07:47 AM | #21 | ||
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Sure, I can install brand new rotors/pads... What good is that, if I do not have the system flushed along with it... It depends on the overall condition of the system. Rather then just a couple of components, that will deceide how well things will work. Anyway, to each his own....
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88' CRX Si - JRSC @ 6psi Z6 Mini-Me, JDM SiR Conversion NOS #5122, JR Liquid InterCooling System ZYDNE SECU, 450's B&M FP Set, B&M Command Flo AutoMeter - Phantom FP, A/F, N2O, Boost gauges & pods, ARP HSKit, AEM Pads, 87' HF Drums, DYI CAI |
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03-10-2003, 08:06 AM | #22 | ||
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If you do any brake work I would hope you would flush the system, that goes without saying. You are right, to each his own.
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R32 GTR w/351w .020 forged, 8.9:1, PTK T76, Turbosmart 40 BC & 45 WG, Tial 40 BV, AFR 205s 310/245, 228/228 550/550 114 Hydro, 1.7rr, Isky RLs, 4" HKS exhaust, ARC 30x16x4 IC, 8 point cage, C2 gauges, 2 step, C4 3200 stall w/ R Manual & Hurst Ratchet shifter, 17" Panasport G7s, CSU 750 & bonnet, Vic Jr intake, 3.63 gears, Corbeau Carrera seats, Custom wide body, Bomex side skirts and rear 1/4 caps, Tommy Kaira bumper. |
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03-10-2003, 11:47 AM | #23 | |
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It's whatever.... hehehe
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88' CRX Si - JRSC @ 6psi Z6 Mini-Me, JDM SiR Conversion NOS #5122, JR Liquid InterCooling System ZYDNE SECU, 450's B&M FP Set, B&M Command Flo AutoMeter - Phantom FP, A/F, N2O, Boost gauges & pods, ARP HSKit, AEM Pads, 87' HF Drums, DYI CAI |
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03-10-2003, 08:53 PM | #24 | |
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Ok. I just put some Ractive cross drilled and sloted rotors on my car. I put on new OEM pads as well. I can stop on a dime. I noticed imeadeatly an improvement in braking. Say what you will, but if you didnt notice they are on all the stock cars and indy cars... Why?
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03-11-2003, 10:39 AM | #25 | ||
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1989 s13 Fastback Tein HE coil-overs sr20det swapped! JIC Magic Front and Rear Strut Bars Slotted and Cross-drilled Rotors S/S Brake Lines Pivot Lazy eye controller Blitz LM Intake Blitz D1 Spec Turbo Timer Soon to come: Sard 550cc Injectors Blitz Nur Spec Exhaust Blitz Down pipe HKS FMIC http://www.driftmonkey.com (Part Owner) |
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03-11-2003, 11:05 AM | #26 | ||
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I'll give you that you gotta be going some pretty fast speeds for the drill holes or slots to make a differance, but they can and DO make a differance. But I'd say above all is on what pads you're using, what kind of lines, and what fluid is running the system. On my Civic I'm running Power Slot rotors, and AEM/Nissin OE spec hi-pro pads on the front (not much aftermarket help for rear drums short of swapping out for rear discs) and then I'm gonna get a complete brake system flush soon here, and replaced with some Motul DOT4 racing fluid, and then the lines changed out for some Goodridge S/S lines.
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Silver '00 Civic EJ6 Coupe PureHonda original member since Feb. 2000 D-series revolution For pics of my baby, click here! All rights reserved... All BITERS served! "The last time you had THIS much fun driving a car, it cost a quarter, and gyrated in front of the supermarket." i have yet to see any well done imports around here. most are road toilets driven by some high school punk -Drift hessemer69 on AIM |
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03-11-2003, 01:51 PM | #27 | |
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The plethora of cars you mentioned are NOT X-DRILLED, they are cast with the holes in them, you might want tothink before you post.
You can lead a horse to water, but you can not make him drink, most of you guys are going to die from dehydration. If you guys swear by holes being drilled into your rotors, so be it. The information is out there. I give, Peace.
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R32 GTR w/351w .020 forged, 8.9:1, PTK T76, Turbosmart 40 BC & 45 WG, Tial 40 BV, AFR 205s 310/245, 228/228 550/550 114 Hydro, 1.7rr, Isky RLs, 4" HKS exhaust, ARC 30x16x4 IC, 8 point cage, C2 gauges, 2 step, C4 3200 stall w/ R Manual & Hurst Ratchet shifter, 17" Panasport G7s, CSU 750 & bonnet, Vic Jr intake, 3.63 gears, Corbeau Carrera seats, Custom wide body, Bomex side skirts and rear 1/4 caps, Tommy Kaira bumper. |
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03-11-2003, 11:14 PM | #28 | ||
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And upp I dunno what rock you're living under but EVERY car i mentioned in my post has or comes with DRILLED rotors of some sort whether it by true cross drilled or POS drilled after the fact. And I HIGHLY doubt the $3k Brembo system on a Porsche isn't a TRUE x-drilled system (that's what the holes are called no matter how they are put into them). Think about it, what other car has an option of ceramic brake rotors and a super high performance braking system? Anywho, I was thinking before I posted, you basically stated that holey discs are pointless, I'm showing you that they aren't, if manufactures like MBZ or Porsche doesn't think they are, they wouldn't spend the extra to put them on their cars. And yes, I already knew those cars come with pre-cast drill type holes, rather than ignorantly drilling the holes after the fact. I know I certainly wouldn't die in that desert.
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Silver '00 Civic EJ6 Coupe PureHonda original member since Feb. 2000 D-series revolution For pics of my baby, click here! All rights reserved... All BITERS served! "The last time you had THIS much fun driving a car, it cost a quarter, and gyrated in front of the supermarket." i have yet to see any well done imports around here. most are road toilets driven by some high school punk -Drift hessemer69 on AIM |
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03-12-2003, 03:22 PM | #29 | ||
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03-12-2003, 03:31 PM | #30 | ||
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