95 Windstar water pump-what a nightmare!!

stratovani · 08-19-2005, 05:21 PM

First time poster here.

I'm in the process of trying to remove and install a new water pump on my 95 Windstar with the 3.8L engine. What a nightmare! I've been at it since yestarday morning. So far I've removed the alternator, the distributor block, the crankshaft flywheel, various hoses, bolts, and nuts. The Haynes manual says you have to disconnect the motor mounts and raise the engine in order to get clearance. No can do! I don't have the place or equipment to do this. So I'm doing it the old fashioned way, using a couple of big prybars. Hopefully I'll be done by tomorrow; it's gotta be done for Monday morning when I go back to work.

What on Earth ever possessed Ford to design a water pump like this? I've done them in the past and it's always been a lot easier than this!

LeSabre97mint · 08-20-2005, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stratovani

First time poster here.

I'm in the process of trying to remove and install a new water pump on my 95 Windstar with the 3.8L engine. What a nightmare! I've been at it since yestarday morning. So far I've removed the alternator, the distributor block, the crankshaft flywheel, various hoses, bolts, and nuts. The Haynes manual says you have to disconnect the motor mounts and raise the engine in order to get clearance. No can do! I don't have the place or equipment to do this. So I'm doing it the old fashioned way, using a couple of big prybars. Hopefully I'll be done by tomorrow; it's gotta be done for Monday morning when I go back to work.

What on Earth ever possessed Ford to design a water pump like this? I've done them in the past and it's always been a lot easier than this!

I've done this job twice! Once on a 93 Taurus and on my 95 Windstar. Both with a 3.8. What's preventing you from raising the engine? Did you remove the motor bolts. On both I used a bar to nudge the engine over (back) a bit to get clearence to get the water pump clear of the studs. I didn't have a manual available at that time. I agree that they could of figured something else out.

Make sure you clean the gasket surface well and torque the bolts/nuts. I wouldn't want to have to do this again.

Good luck.

Dan

stratovani · 08-20-2005, 11:07 AM

It's Saturday Noon and I've almost got it out. Three of the four studs holding the water pump in are history, so I'm going to have to cut some threads in and use some bolts. Hopefully I'll have it out soon and have the new one in by the end of the day. Thank God for good prybars!!

Man, what a nightmare!!

stratovani · 08-20-2005, 06:16 PM

Well, I finally got the old water pump out. A combination of prybars and muscle did the trick. Three of the four studs that the outside edges bolt on to were ruined so I had to cut them out with my Dremel and a cutoff wheel. Might have to install the new pump on Monday since we're expecting thunderstorms around here tomorrow.

DRW1000 · 08-21-2005, 05:36 PM

Wish I could offer some advice but you seem to know what you are doing and I am learning from reading your posts.

Good lcuk with the job. Let us know how the install goes.

stratovani · 08-21-2005, 08:41 PM

Well, it's Sunday night, and the new water pump is in. New gasket, gasket shellac, and antiseize compound on all fasteners. I still need to get three new bolts to replace the studs I ruined while removing the old pump. So that means staying home tomorrow so I can finally finish the job. I still have to reinstall the distributor block, the alternator. and various small parts. Hope to have "Big Blue" back on the road by tomorrow afternoon.

Just a quick By The Way. There's a Y-pipe that goes into the top of the water pump. One side leads to the heater core inside the firewall, and the other pipe leads to the engine. And from all the effort that went into removing the old pump the pipe started splitting off the base. So I called my local Ford dealer and they told me it would be almost $60.00 for the pipe. So I said "Screw that!!", and here's what I did. I used some of that steel epoxy stuff you can get at the local parts store (goes by the names Quicksteel or Magnum Steel Epoxy) and I sealed up the crack with a big gob of the stuff. Let it cure overnight and now it's harder than steel! It's supposed to withstand gasoline and oil so I'm assuming it should be okay with antifreeze.

I'm glad people are reading this narrative and, hopefully, learning something from it. The more we learn the less money we'll have to pay in labor charges.

stratovani · 08-22-2005, 12:17 PM

It's early Monday afternoon, and everything's put together. I even put in a new thermostat. I'm now eating my lunch and when I'm done all that'll be left to do is install a new serpentine belt, put in some antifreeze, fire it up and check for leaks. I pray to God there aren't any, but I'm pretty confidant there won't be. Should be all done by late afternoon.

stratovani · 08-22-2005, 06:33 PM

Success!! I finished the job late this afternoon and the new water pump seems to be working just fine. No leaks from what I can see. It was a herculean effort on my part but I'm so glad it's finally done. Now, however, there seems to be something new, for which I'll be starting a new tread.

Time for a cold beer and a hot shower!!

ivory · 09-06-2005, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stratovani

Success!! I finished the job late this afternoon and the new water pump seems to be working just fine. No leaks from what I can see. It was a herculean effort on my part but I'm so glad it's finally done. Now, however, there seems to be something new, for which I'll be starting a new tread.

Time for a cold beer and a hot shower!!

It's almost impossible to take the old pump out but you can...I did use a tiny saw to short all the long bolts and it took me 5 hours to replace the water pump.
GL

Bgolden024 · 12-06-2019, 06:42 PM

Not to out do anyone, but Ive done this job 4 times already. This is not a fun job.

To avoid cutting bolts, you HAVE to raise the engine. Theres a spot to jack near the muffler and rear motor mount. You also have to jack up the front from the underside of powersteering pump. Obviously alot of jacks, but it saves trying to find new long bolts that you need to lift the engine to install anyways lol.

The Y-pipe can slide out if you twist. Its gonna be in there good, but it will come out easier if you remove distribution box AND the bracket.

Heres my problem though, the pipe that connects to the bottom has been leaking like crazy. Tried gasket sealer, that burnt up after awhile. Tried jb weld, that cracked after awhile. Tried buying new water pump, new tube and new o-ring, but the new tubes bolt hole doesnt line up on the block. Used wiring to secure it (it doesnt move lol) but the stupid thing continues to leak.

Anybody got an idea for this?

It leaks right where the lower metal tube connects to the water pump.

This design is seriously stupid as hell, why no after market remake???

Is it possible to use a water pump from a different ford, like a 3.8 taurus or something?

I honestly dont wanna do this job again but I have no choice and I want this 5th time to be the last time... At least for 6 months or so til I can maybe get a new car.

12Ounce · 12-08-2019, 03:38 PM

I have done this task a couple of times also .... never fun. I have always gained a bit more space by supporting the sub frame in four places and dropping the sub frame attaching bolts. Using a bar you can pinched the engine and tranny to the left, and inch or so, before the tranny cover runs out of movement. Not a lot of additional space, but every little bit helps.

If you go this route, remember the sub frame bolts need 100 ft lbs of torque.

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