helpful SVX info?

[Demolician]

I am about to purchase a Subaru SVX, I was just wondering if anyone out there with one has had any bad experiences with a particular model, year of the car. Also any part of the car in general that has given them problems or has failed since they have owned the car. I have found that the front brake rotors warp fairly easily and the Transmission on some of them have gone out pretty easily. I am just trying to determine which year and model of SVX I would like to go after, thanks for anyone that can give me any info.

[Karl_Hungus]

Do yourself a favor and stay away from an SVX that has not had the tranny replaced recently. I have worked in a Subaru dealership for the past eight years, and while I love Subarus, the SVX is a disaster. I have never seen an SVX, any model year 1992 - 1997, with more than 120,000 miles on it with an original tranny. We've even seen many of these trannys failing at less that 60,000 miles. The output shaft on the trans was the exact same output shaft that Subaru had used in the old GL-10 Loyale turbos. The vehicle is just too heavy and has too much power for the tranny and shaft to handle.

Other than the transmission problems they are pretty descent rigs. Just be aware that parts for SVX's are rather expensive and in VERY short supply.

[Demolician]

Cool, Thanks for the info. i found a 94 with 58k on it for $4900 the tranny felt smooth, but i could tell that it was a little weird when it changed gears.

[RUSSELLS]

[quote=Karl_Hungus]Do yourself a favor and stay away from an SVX
KARL, I HOPE I'M ABOE TO CONTACT YOU THIS WAY. I OWN RUSSELL'S FOREIGN CAR REPAIR IN BERRIEN SPRINGS, MICHIGAN. WE HAVE A CUSTOMER'S SVX AND HAVE A VERY UNUSUAL DRIVEABILITY PROBLEM THAT YOU MAY HAVE EXPERIENCED. PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU CAN SPARE A FEW MINUTES AND GIVE US A BIT OF HELP.
THE SYMPTOMS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
MOSTLY WHEN COLD, THE CAR WILL ACCELERATE FINE THEN WHEN YOU COME TO A STOP, IT IS RUNNING ON 3 OR 4 CYLINDERS AND SOMETIMES WILL DIE. THIS CONDITION LASTS ONLY FOR A SHORT TIME THEN CLEARS UP AND RUNS NORMAL. WHEN WARMED UP, IT MAY NOT MALFUNCTION AT ALL. WE STARTED BY PERFORMING A NEEDED TUNEUP AND FOUND EVIDENCE OF COILPACK SHORTING. WE REPLACED ALL THE COILPACKS SINCE THEY WERE VERY POOR CONDITION AND OUT OF RESISTANCE SPECS. WE THEN DELIVERED THE CAR AND IT WAS FINE FOR SEVERAL DAYS. IT NOW IS BACK TO THE SAME PROBLEMS. WE HAVE TRIED REFRIGERATING SEVERAL COMPONENTS INCLUDING THE ECU TO SEE IF THE PROBLEM CAN BE DUPLICATED WHEN THE ENGINE IS WARM, WITHOUT RESULTS (THE ECU HAS NEVER HAD ANY CODES). WE'VE DONE THE SAME WITH CRANK AND CAM SENSORS. THE PROBLEM WILL NOT OCCUR IF THE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE IS ABOVE ABOUT 40 DEGREES MOST OF THE TIME.
I'M HOPING THAT YOU HAVE EXPERIENCED THIS TYPE OF PROBLEM. IT'S VERY DIFFICULT TO LEARN ANYTHING WHEN IT HAS SMOOTHED OUT BY THE TIME YOU CAN STOP, OPEN THE HOOD AND GET OUT THERE.
OUR E-MAIL ADDRESS IS RUSSELLSFCR@SBCGLOBAL.NET, BETTER YET, CALL COLLECT AT 269-473-3089. WE ARE ON EASTERN TIME ZONE LIKE YOU. THANKYOU, RUSSELL YOUNG

[NikFu S. TypeAR!!1]

Originally Posted by Demolician

Cool, Thanks for the info. i found a 94 with 58k on it for $4900 the tranny felt smooth, but i could tell that it was a little weird when it changed gears.

Buy this car.
Change the tranny oil, do not flush it.

While doing that, install a good sized oil cooler in line with the radiator, and an extra filter.

DO not abuse the transmission. There is no reason for it to fail if you care for it properly. The dealership will not tell you this.

Originally Posted by RUSSELLS

THE SYMPTOMS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
MOSTLY WHEN COLD, THE CAR WILL ACCELERATE FINE THEN WHEN YOU COME TO A STOP, IT IS RUNNING ON 3 OR 4 CYLINDERS AND SOMETIMES WILL DIE. THIS CONDITION LASTS ONLY FOR A SHORT TIME THEN CLEARS UP AND RUNS NORMAL. WHEN WARMED UP, IT MAY NOT MALFUNCTION AT ALL.

Firstly, can I ask you to not use all caps?

Secondly, are you sure it's running on only 3 or 4 cylinders? I think that if you had verified this you would know whether it is 3 or 4, not either or.

Run the vehicle so that it exhibits this problem and start pulling the injectors. You'll note a change in idle if you unplug a running cylinder. If the cylinder is in fact not firing, there will be no change.

What are you reading for voltage at idle?

What is the condition of the coolant temp sensor?

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Ahahahh I just realized how old this thread is. What a waste of time.