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Old 03-22-2005, 12:26 AM   #16
Igovert500
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Re: FAQ..read Before Asking!

So you have an oil leak, on the timing belt/driver side of your engine? Upon further inspection, it appears to be coming from behind the driver side intercooler. Well chances are it is your oil cooler lines. Mitsu stock oil cooler lines SUCK. And chances are, if you live in colder climates with snow and salt, and your stock lines are 10 years old…they are leaking or will be soon. For me, it started as a small drip…for others, they didn’t realize until it was too late. Mine slowly deteriorated, others have had oil explode all over as their failing line burst. Either way, if left unnoticed, this can cause SERIOUS damage to your engine.

So to check your lines for leaks or just to check wear preventatively, jack up the front driver side of the car, remove the wheel. Remove the plastic wheel well. Mine had 3 clasps, 2 10mm bolts, 1 longer screw, and 3 screws with the plastic gromets…(numbers from memory, so give or take)


This will give you a clear view of the oil cooler, but to view the far connections where the lines meet the oil pan near the oil filter, remove the engine side cover


You should see this

Mine was SOOO much messier.

Now here is where you have a few options, and they all depend on your budget/ability/condition of stock lines.

1. Replace with stock lines
http://www.3sxperformance.com/stock.asp at the bottom of this page they sell stock lines, banjo bolts, gaskets, and stock oil cooler. If you have a leak…clean it up, and try to determine what you need to replace. GET ALL NEW GASKETS! Sometimes just a gasket is leaking, sometimes everything is leaking…you will need to determine what you need. My oil return hard line was deteriorating…and after I got everything apart, I found the return rubber lower line was in need of replacement as well. I also picked up 8 extra gaskets and a banjo bolt just in case. So like I said, you have to figure out what you need…chances are you don’t need a new oil cooler…

Option 2: Replace with SS braided lines and AN fittings. After struggling with the stock lines, and snapping the hardline in half…I would HIGHLY recommend spending a bit more and going with SS lines. They are easier to work with, are hassle free, and will give you peace of mind in the future…definantly worth the few extra dollars.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fmoc.htm This has everything you need to know about SS lines…just one comment, I’ve heard from a member on 3si that the aeroquip 16mmx1.5mm to -8AN adapters don’t work, so to be on the safe side, stick with the Earls parts he mentions.


Option 3: Larger oil cooler, relocating oil cooler. There are many upgrading options, and many threads on 3si regarding this issue. Many with upgraded intercoolers may have to look into this. Some options I’ve heard used are various Fluidyne and Setrab oil coolers available at Summit Racing and http://www.bakerprecision.com/setrab.htm I believe I even remember hearing someone say they swapped in a larger rx7 oil cooler they found…so be creative. Most relocate theirs in front of the radiator, as it receives much more airflow there, than in its stock location behind the intercooler.
http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3S/Mods/TT/BAFMOC/


http://expha.com/CTECH/MEDIA/oilcooler/pix.html

Tools:…get a TON of PB blaster to soak all the bolts and soften up rust.
Besides your typical wrenches, I remember needing a 17mm wrench for the bolts connecting the soft to hard lines
A 19mm wrench for the heads of the banjo bolts
And there was another large sized wrench needed, I used a large adjustable wrench. But make sure you have these ahead of time.

Tips:

1) If you decide to reuse the stock oil cooler, if you just leave it in place and change the lines, you don’t really need to do all that much to it…however being that it is so easy to remove (3 12mm bolts holding it to the brackets) it is a good idea to flush the oil cooler. I’ve heard people use brake cleaner, kerosene, diesel fuel, normal gas. Use you best judgment, just make sure to clean it out again, as you don’t want to contaminate your oil with kerosene or whatever. Also you may just decide to take it out to get more room to maneuver.

2) If you take the cooler off or are putting a new one on, make sure to refill it. The oil cooler has a check valve and doesn’t open up until the engine is hot…you don’t want to be going WOT and have it open up and shoot a burst of hot air into your engine instead of cool oil!...so take 7 seconds and refill the oil cooler.

3) Get the 2 low-profile AN fittings recommended by Jeff Lucius on stealth316. I tried to go cheaper by getting 4 of the same non-low profile 90 degree connectors...trust me...you'll wish you had the 2 low-profile ones for the oil cooler end, when you try to remount it. Note you need the normal ones for the oil filter end.

4) I bought all the stuff from Summit Racing
2 EAR-303008ERL 3 ft -8AN autoflex SS braided hose
4 EAR-9919EFJERL -8AN to 16mm-1.5 Adapters
2 EAR-809108ERL -8AN 90degree tube swivel
2 -8AN 90 degree low profile swivel

Costs with tax and shipping around $155

5) Putting the AN connectors on the SS lines can be a PITA...use a vice as recommend..if you don't have one, get a decent clamp and a work bench...this worked for me.

6) Once the lines are connected to the swivel fittings...they have a tendency to bend themselves and want to stay that way...so spend as little time between putting them together and mounting them as possible. I found it easier to mount the lines on hte oil cooler and put that into place, route the lines, and hten connect them to the engine side. Use plenty of zip ties to route them!

7) Before you do all this, map out where you are going to run the lines, and measure (including bends) the route, then cut the lines down accordingly. I just used both 3ft lines, and it would have been a bit easier if they were the proper lengths...rather than routing them in loops like an idiot.

That's about all I can think of. All in all, as usual, everything goes alot smoother if you put the extra effort in the preparation phase, than trying to figure out ways to deal with the problems that arise later from you being too lazy to do something correctly the first time around.

Hope all of this helps someone in the future, and it isn't as much of a headache to you as it was for me.
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96 3000gt vr4
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Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical.

Last edited by Igovert500; 04-08-2005 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 06-02-2005, 12:13 PM   #17
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Re: FAQ..read Before Asking!

Hotshot's battery relocation thread:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul....php?p=3132080
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96 3000gt vr4
-K&N FIPK
-Proboost mbc
-Cusco front + rear strut bars
-Greddy type-s
-ATR downpipe
-no cats
-15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly.

Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical.
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Old 01-03-2006, 10:41 PM   #18
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Re: Re: FAQ..read Before Asking!

The how to on how to wire second gen headlights using first main harnesses.


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Old 01-30-2006, 11:43 PM   #19
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Re: FAQ..read Before Asking!

Thought this would be a good addition to the FAQ. Taken from speedingticketcentral.com

Well the first thing is, what kind of ticket did you get? I put tickets into three categories:



Equipment tickets such as loud muffler, illegal lights, etc.

Ordinary moving violations, mostly speeding.

Serious violations such as reckless driving, DWI or anything that carries jail time.

Now before we begin, I want to talk about how to act when you get busted. I know, it's too late this time, but lets not kid each other. This might be your first ticket but it for damn sure won't be your last.

Did you ever watch COPS? Have you ever wondered to yourself where the people are who don't act like idiots? I'll tell you where they are. Home. They had their brief interlude with the police, acted right and either got sent home or quietly booked for some offense and FOX thought their scene was too boring to show.

A cop's favorite traffic stop is a boring one. What you need to do in a traffic stop is act like a cop. How does a cop act? The moment an off-duty cop in a civilian car knows that he's going to get pulled over, he pulls over. If he can't pull over immediately, perhaps he's on an overpass, he waves to the cop behind him to signal he sees him and pulls over as soon as there is a place to pull over. Don't drag this out of course. When you pull over, pull over far enough that he can park behind you in such a way that his car protects him from oncoming traffic. Turn you wheel all the way to the right, roll down your window, turn off the radio, shut the car off, place your hands on the steering wheel and wait. If you have passengers, have them sit quietly with their hands folded in their laps. If there was time after spotting the cop pulling out you should have put away your detector, but ONLY if you can do it without him seeing you fumbling around in the car. That generally means you'll only have time for this if you get popped on the highway. Do not be wearing sunglasses when you talk to the cop. Just toss them on the dashboard. Have your passengers do the same. When the cop asks you for your license & registration, tell him where they are before you reach for them, and then move slowly. Not ridiculously slowly, just very carefully. Don't sir him to death, that will often annoy him, just be polite, calm and speak in an ordinary conversational voice. Everything you've done has now signaled to him that you're not going to be trouble. This is good because most of the time he hasn't yet decided if he's going to write you and any warm fuzzy feelings you can generate are a good thing. IF YOU HAVE A PBA CARD, DO NOT GIVE IT TO HIM. Keep it directly behind your drivers license. When you hand him your documents, make it a point to hand him the license last. Keeping your arm resting on the door sill and your wallet in your left hand, remove the license with your right hand and hand it to him, leaving the now exposed PBA card in plain sight. SAY NOTHING! Trust me. He sees it. If it's going to do you any good, it will. If not, don't even mention it. Don't give the cop some lame excuse. He's heard them all and then some. About the only excuse worth bothering with is that you were rushing to the Doctor/Hospital or home, to the bathroom. But of course, only use that excuse if it's true. What you can do is express to the cop that you would be grateful for any slack he can cut you, but leave it at that. If he writes you a ticket, don't bother asking him to see the reading, or about his qualifications, or when the gun was last calibrated. I know that goes against conventional wisdom, but trust me. The 70's are long over. Tickets just don't get beaten like that anymore. These police departments have got this stuff down to a science and the whole process from getting pulled over to paying the clerk runs like a well oiled machine. This is a serious source of revenue and they don't play games with it.

OK, moving on to the meat. Lets take the third category first, because it's the easiest. IF YOU ARE FACING POSSIBLE JAIL, GET A LAWYER. If you can't afford one and you are looking at jail time, they MUST provide one for you. If you aren't looking at jail time but are looking at a serious violation that might result in you losing your license, consider hiring a lawyer anyway. OK, that's it. Category three is done.

Category One is equipment violations. This is pretty easy too. If it's something you can get fixed before court, such as a loud muffler or cracked windshield, it's usually easier and cheaper to just do it. If you're going to fight it, look up the law, find out what it is that the people have to prove you did to get a conviction and ask yourself if the cop did what he was supposed to. For instance, in most places a cop cannot just say your car is too loud. He has to quantify it with a decibel meter. If you live in NY State and have a loud exhaust ticket, e-mail me directly. I ruined the law in NY a couple of years ago and the legislature hasn't fixed it yet. If you got a ticket for something you know damn well they can prove, like illegal tail lights or tint, and you aren't going to fix it, just pay it by mail. I also suggest that you consider driving a lower profile car, or making yours less "flashy" or "bling-bling" But it's a free country, mostly, and if you want to drive a cop magnet, that's your business.

Now we come to category two, the most common reason for a ticket, LEAD FOOT. OK, first lets dispense with the illusions. If you are reading this, you are most likely reading it at VWVORTEX.COM and that means you're a car enthusiast. Car enthusiasts speed. Pretty much all the time. Some more than others of course and some faster than others, but if you're a car guy (or girl) you drive faster than you're supposed to on pretty much a routine basis. What does that mean? It means that unless you stop driving, this will not be your last ticket.

Now why is that important, you ask? Because you cannot afford to think in terms of beating THIS ticket. You must take a long view and have a strategy. Your goal is to avoid accumulating enough points to lose your license. THAT'S IT. You have no other mission. Remember one thing: Speeding fines are the fee you pay for the privilege of driving as fast as you want. If you do not agree with that premise then stop reading this FAQ right now, because everything that follows is based on that premise. One quick disclaimer here... This is NOT legal advice. This me reporting to you how the system actually functions in the real world and how you can work the system.

Why should you buy into my advice? Because I have been doing this for 20 years. I've lost track of how many tickets I've received but I do know it's in excess of 100 and I have NEVER been suspended for points. Came close a couple of times, but never crossed the line. I've argued in cases in both trial and appellate court, I generally win, and I've even beaten the Ohio Department of Motor Vehicles in court, which is only slightly less difficult than what O.J. did a few years ago. In short, I've been there and done that.

OK, step one... You have the ticket. Hopefully you didn't act the fool when you got the ticket and the cop won't have any reason to remember you unkindly. Don't change that now by requesting a supporting deposition. Let me repeat that. Do NOT ask for a supporting deposition. For those who don't know, a supporting deposition is a written statement from the cop that sums up the events leading up to the ticket. The theory behind this is that if the cop's testimony varies under cross-examination, you can get the ticket thrown out. Well forget it. You ain't Johnny Cochran and all you're going to do is annoy the cop by making him do paperwork. You might wonder why that matters if you already have the ticket. Well it does, and I'll come back to that.

Now, most tickets have a section on the back that allows you to enter a not guilty plea by mail. Do this. If it doesn't, or if the ticket says that you must come to court, that first visit is going to be an arraignment. You'll be entering a plea. That's ALL you're going to do. Don't try to hand the judge your explanation or sob story because he don't want to hear it.

Quick note on NOLO CONTENDRE pleas. Hopefully I spelled that right, but either way it's the famous "No Contest" plea. This is a very nice plea. It basically means that you don't admit guilt but you won't object to being punished. If your ticket arises from a traffic accident, make SURE you plead NO CONTEST. In most cases someone official at the court, possibly even the Judge will actually tell you that. It has to do with liability and the possibility you might get sued. Also, in most cases, the court won't let you enter a plea of NO CONTEST unless you were in an accident. Furthermore, if you were in an accident, don't play around. Put in your NO CONTEST plea, pay your fine and get the hell out of there. You don't want this to come back to haunt you later and a plea of guilty when you have been in a traffic accident is considered to be an admission of fault in civil court. Don't take my word for it, ask a lawyer. If there was no accident involved, plea NOT GUILTY and go home. You will usually be mailed a court date. Sometimes they will give it to you on the spot. Either way, go home and don't sweat it.
OK, so you've entered a plea of NOT GUILTY.

First thing is... don't agonize over this. You're charged with speeding, not murder, OK? The absolute worst thing that can happen to you is you lose some money and you get a couple of points.

I want to inject something into this FAQ now, based on an issue that arose with another poster on this board. What this person did was to contact the ADA before the trial and try to work out a deal. This certainly seems like a good idea but unfortunately it usually only works for other attorneys.
Know this: ADAs are human. Humans are lazy. When an ADA shows up in court he has only one goal. Getting the hell out of there as quickly as possible. This is actually true of everybody there, espescially the people who are being paid to be there. You see, you only have to be there once. They have to be there all the time.

If you go calling that ADA at the office where they have easy access to the offender database and time on their hands, you lose the leverage that their inherent laziness and dislike of their job brings.

Wait until court, when they are MOST likely to be in a mood to cut a deal just to get you, and by extension them, the hell out of there as quickly as possible. Does this make a deal a sure thing? Well, no... it doesn't. But it increases your odds and when you're playing a number game that's crucial.
So, your trial date rolls around. By now somebody has told you to see about getting something that's sometimes called "Adjournment in Contemplation of Dismissal" or some such fancy title. The deal is, nothing happens with your ticket. If you stay clean for a certain number of months, usually 12-18, your ticket gets dismissed. Sounds great, right? The only problem is that if you get another ticket the OTHER one comes back. Now you have TWO tickets and TWO fines. ooops.

Basically, unless you're about to join the Army or go abroad for a year, it's a bad gamble. Like I already said, this isn't your last ticket. The question isn't IF you get another, the question is when and 12-18 months is a long time to drive like your grandmother.

So what do you do? You engage in that honorable American institution known as The Plea Bargain. On the day of your trial, before you go in front of the Judge, you will be approached by either the Cop who wrote the ticket or by an ADA, or Assistant District Attorney. This pretty much depends on the population density where you got the ticket.

Now is where you tell them, in quite simple language, that you know you were doing wrong and you're mostly worried about the points. Ask them if it's possible to plead guilty to a non-points charge instead and pay the fine. Now, remember when I said you shouldn't annoy the cop by asking for a supporting deposition? This is where it pays off. Basically, if you didn't do anything to annoy the cop either at the original stop or later on along the way, he's pretty much not going to care. If you have an ADA then he's going to ask the cop if he's OK with any deal.

Now, sometimes you can't get the deal you want. OK, try for what you can get. If they ADA says that he can't let off the hook with no points, ask him if there is anything he CAN do for you. What's the worst he can say, no?
I have encountered exactly TWO courts in 20 years that simply will not allow plea bargains of any kind and they are both in suburbs of Cleveland, so unless you're there, don't worry about it.

OK, so there are two possibilities now. a) You struck a bargain b) You struck out

90% of the time you'll have struck a bargain, and you can almost always get rid of the points. At this time you'll go back into the courtroom and wait to be called. When you are, walk to the front of the courtroom, say "I'm your honor." and shut up. The cop or ADA will do the talking for you, there will come a moment when the Judge will ask if you agree to the plea bargain. You say: "Yes, your honor" and shut up. The Judge tells you what the fine is and hands you off to the court clerk. By the way, you REALLY should have your fine money with you already. This is NOT the moment to be asking for time to pay, but if for some reason you don't, then you better speak up before you walk over to the clerk. Make sure you know how long you need and I strongly advise you to make sure sure it's not longer than a couple of weeks. Pay what you can on the spot.

Now, let's say that you were not able to strike a bargain. Well, you have two choices. You can try to cross-examine the cop during your trial, hoping to trip him up. Trust me when I say that this is pretty much a waste of time and will annoy the Judge, especially if you're clumsy about it. They HATE wannabee lawyers. OR, you can take that sob story you've been saving and tell it to the Judge. Keep it short though, and don't insult the man's intelligence. Ask for a reduction in fine if you want. Ask whatever. You've really got nothing to lose at this point. Unless you do something stupid like argue with him or smart off of course... Now you're done. Pay your fine or ask for time to pay and go home.

Using this method you will almost always be able to avoid the points. That also has an effect on your insurance. The few times you don't manage to get a favorable plea are just that, FEW. Over the long term this will keep your points down, your insurance costs down and cost you only the occasional fine. And remember; Fines are the fee you pay for the privilege of driving as fast as you want

ANSWERS TO SOME QUESTIONS THAT HAVE COME UP __________________________________________________ __________________ Parking Tickets Not even worth fighting. To give you an idea of what I mean, every parking ticket written in the State of NY is jurisdictionally defective. Why that is isn't really important. The point is that nobody, especially not a layman, ever wins a motion for dismissal on jurisdictional grounds in the little "kangaroo court" traffic courts that those things are heard in. Usually, you don't even see a real Judge. You see a Justice of the Peace, or even the local Mayor. You'll get convicted ever time. Of course, you then appeal, citing the correct case law, and you will over turn the conviction and get your money back every time. It's like shooting fish in a barrel. But it costs more to go through the process than the actual ticket is worth. Not to mention that filing an appeal is a genuine P.I.T.A. You get a parking ticket, just pay the stupid thing and move on. It's not worth it to fight it even if you have the Pope ready to swear you and your car were elsewhere.

__________________________________________________ _____________________________


The Cop made a mistake on my ticket. Color wrong, name misspelled, etc. Should I fight it? Don't bother. Unless the person and vehicle on the ticket are CLEARLY not you at ALL, in which case why do you have the ticket, this falls under the category of "allowable error" Let's say the ticket spelled your name wrong and described your yellow Jetta as Blue. The Judge is just going to ask you if the ticket is yours. If you lie to this man I PROMISE you, you'll be sleeping with Bubba that night. Just treat it as if the cop got all the info correct. Now, I will say this. There are some jurisdictions that are pretty fussy about having the paperwork filled out correctly. If in doubt, just pick up the phone, call a local lawyer whose yellow page ad says that he deals with tickets, DUIs and such, and ask him if the flaw on your ticket in particular is fatal. Lawyers generally don't mind answering a quick question like that. If he says it is, you may want to consider hiring him to get your ticket thrown out. You can usually get them cheaper when it's a slam dunk. This is pretty much the only time I advocate hiring a lawyer for a regular speeding ticket. __________________________________________________ ____________________________

The Cop was mean/rude/nasty to me! I want to complain and this ticket should be dismissed! 95% of Cops are just regular human beings doing a tough job and won't give you a hard time unless you ask for it. The other 5% are just jerks. Deal with it. Take a cue from the Mafia. "It's just business." treat it as you would any other ticket and don't let the jerk get to you. Remember, you aren't here to get revenge, you're here to play the game and work the system as best you can. Lose sight of that and you'll be staring at 2 points on your license you probably could have avoided. If that doesn't work for you, just think about it this way. By the time you arrived in court and paid that fine, because of all the speeding you've done in the meantime, you have pro-rated that ticket down to a fraction of a cent on the MPH. __________________________________________________ _____________________________

This is a bogus ticket! I know for SURE that I didn't do it. Can you prove that? Yeah, me neither the few times it's happened to me. But really, I can count the number of truly bogus tickets I've received on one hand. Did he write you for a higher speed than you think you were going? Chances are his numbers are correct. Even if they aren't, remember, it's just business. This is the fee you pay for the privilege of driving as fast as you want. You play the game right and the numbers go in your favor over the long run, even if you DO get a genuinely bogus ticket. __________________________________________________ ______________________________

This cop was following me for a while before he pulled me over. I don't think he can do that! Sorry, but the bottom line is that you have a ticket now. It doesn't really mater if the ticket is legit or not, you have it and unless you can prove that it's a bogus ticket, the cop is going to win in court. Fair? No, of course not. But who said this was about fairness? __________________________________________________ ______________________________

Should I get a continuance and hope the cop forgets to show up or something? Don't bother getting a continuance unless you actually need it. In the first place it has no impact on the cop showing up or not. These things are scheduled and co-ordinated between the court and the Police, meaning the cop doesn't have to remember a damn thing. All he has to do is show up on the regularly scheduled court date when he has only to look at the list of cases and has everything he needs provided for him. The second problem is that the courts are wise to this trick and have been for years. If you try playing games with continuances you'll run the risk of annoying the clerk. You know, the person who the Judge counts on more than anyone to keep his life organized?

Hope that helps.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Igovert500
[01:05] Igovert500: scrwe his method
[01:05] Igovert500: too much crap
[01:06] Igovert500: i just jam a garden hose in there
[01:06] Igovert500: and put it on high flow
[01:06] Igovert500: go the opposite direction too
[01:06] Igovert500: so it clears out more shit
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Old 01-31-2006, 10:05 PM   #20
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Re: FAQ..read Before Asking!

DIY short throw shifter for under $3

http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=248166
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96 3000gt vr4
-K&N FIPK
-Proboost mbc
-Cusco front + rear strut bars
-Greddy type-s
-ATR downpipe
-no cats
-15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly.

Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical.
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Old 02-16-2006, 06:14 PM   #21
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Re: FAQ..read Before Asking!

Thanks to DeftSyder from 3SI, we now have this tutorial on installing aftermarket leather seats. Enjoy!


Installing an aftermarket Leather Interior on your 3000GT seats
I drive a '95 3000GT, and I just realized this car is over 10 years old now. Now, I keep it in pretty good shape, watch the paint, make sure it is waxed professionally with all the tips the guys at Meguiar's could give me, etc.

Do you have questions?

Want to know specifics about models available, colors , stitching, shipping, etc?
Call the guys at leatherseats.com. They have several hundred different patterns for just about every make and model.

LeatherSeats toll free # is:
1-866-639-7328.
You can also email at sales@leatherseats.com.

I take care of the engine as well as possible, change the oil, etc. Maintenance is definitely on my mind. But there's an odd thing about my cars leather.. after 10+ years, it's just been around too long. It's do ne... no leather conditioner will work on this puppy. I never saw it ‘brand new'. As far as I know, it's pretty nice compared… to, well, 4 years ago when I bought it. Man was I wrong.

The fact is leather can be as nice as possible from the factory, but use and wear and tear are unavoidable, and your seats become the glaring indicator of just how old your car really is. This show car got “Is that new” all the time… when the doors are closed. I got “what year is this” much more often with the doors open… because they could tell by the seats it was getting pretty old, as my seats became torn and tattered.
Interior wasn't even in my top 10 things to do… I'm not sure why I didn't think of my interior earlier. It's not something you think of first off in this world of body kits and neon lights… but it should be. It's such an incredibly omni-present piece to your cars appearance. Sure, YOU don't see them so much when you are seated, but you sure as hell feel them in comfort every moment of the drive, and every time anyone else looks at your car, be it a show or just driving around, it WILL be seen just as much as that front lip you bought… probably more.

So why don't people do a new leather installation? We'll, it's going to cost more than that front lip… and I think the main reason is the installation is going to cost a bunch on top of it.

Well, we're all a bunch of do-it-yourself guys, and watching someone do an installation on our car is for someone else. We want to install it ourselves… and you can.

That's where aftermarket leather interiors come in. You can get a substantially better price on top of the line leather that any “professional” installer would be using, and all we have to do is spend a little time doing it ourselves. It can be any color, any style, different color sticking, two tone… and best of all it uses your stock, very comfy seats as the base, and makes them comfortable again. (Yes, they get A LOT more comfortable… after installing mine the difference was amazing… I had no idea how broken down my seats were.

The big thing holding us back is… can we do it ourselves? I thought of a leather install like my transmission… just not something I want to touch because I know nothing about it, and if I screw it up, what then? Well, luckily I had my hand held through the beginning, and I must say, it got me to make the first snip, but I really didn't need it. And now that I know, I'm going to tell you too, because it really isn't that hard, and for the benefits, it is a NO BRAINER.

So where do we start?

Well the start is actually the fun part. Head over to leatherseats.com. There are flashier websites on the web, but there are not better companies or prices. I know this because I dealt with them all. LeatherSeats answered their phone and stayed on the line for about 40 minutes while I asked every question in the book, worried about whether or not I could do it… and that was leatherseats.com. That's the sort of support I want, and I stuck with them. It didn't hurt the pricing was great, and that's why I stayed with them and eventually worked out a deal.

It also didn't hurt at all that they had already written an installation overview for the DIY Network using… you guessed it: the 3000GT. It just so happened when I called the guy I spoke with was working on a… yeah, 3000GT. Seems it was in the stars.

Take your time deciding what look you want for your new interior…. This leather is going to last a long time, so make sure what you pick isn't the fad of the moment. Get familiar with all the color options, stitching color, etc. You can get perforated or not… it's your call. Just think it out. Maybe right now blue and yellow seats seem really cool, but imagine that in 4 years when you're not a UCLA student or not showing your car as much as you thought you would. Think long term and stylish.

Luckily my decision was easier because the Spyder is classic styling and my design cues have never been “wild” but rather going for a more “tasteful exotic”. I went with two tone seats… charcoal on the outside, and “slate” on the inside. When my kit arrives I was pleasantly surprised; these matched my stock beige color and the gray on my interior so close it was amazing.

Now that I've picked my color and got my leather kit in the mail it's time to get started.
Lets get to the tools now.

The tools I needed were pretty simple. To start off you need “Hog Ring Pliers”. Here's what they look like:
Actual Hog Ring pliers They are used with… you guessed it, hog rings. Here's what hog rings look like:
Actual Hog Rings You put the hog ring into the pliers like this:
Actual Hog Ring Pliers in actual use And the pliers easily bend the hog ring into a nice triangular ring shape that will hold whatever is attached to it in place pretty easily. If this looks familiar, it's because this is the exact same thing they use on fences to keep the chain link attached to the poles. As a matter of fact, while there's all sorts of fancy Hog Rings out there for you to buy, the ones I bought said “Chain Link Fence tension Wire Clips: Hog Rings” on the front. I bought a bag of 200 at the local OSH Hardware for about 4 bucks. The pliers right in the same area were about $9.50.

I also bought a pair of snub nose wire cutters to take off the old hog rings. The snub nose is so that mechanical advantage is on your size and the stock rings get snipped easier. If you don't have these, buy them… they were about 12-16 bucks, and well worth the time I saved trying to use wire cutters or some other totally inappropriate tool. Having the right tool for the job is essential, and I guess that means my dad was right about at least one thing.

Now you have what you need to start, so get going!

Where to start, where to start…

Start in the back. As you well know the back seat of a 3000GT is best suited for newborns and those shorter than 4 foot nothing. Chances are while you the new leather for the back seats you wont miss them too much. Why did it take me three hours? Mostly because I was enjoying the learning curve, seeing how the stock leather it attached to the car, etc. Once you get a good idea for how the stock leather is attached with the stock hog rings, you'll have a good idea for how the rest of the project is going to go… just different places for the rings to be. This comes fairly quickly because it's pretty obvious.

I should probably mention that I brought my back seats in from the garage and did the entirety of this project sitting on my couch watching movies. There's no reason why this can't be a relaxing project, and frankly, rushing it won't help at all. Take your time, and it'll be better served all the way around. I did the 'seat back' of the back seat first.

The leather for the back seats comes off like unwrapping a package. As you cut all the rings it will unwrap slowly, and then you can pull it off. Be careful that you pay attention to where the rings were, what they were holding onto, etc. This will help things to be more intuitive when you put the new leather on as you'll have an idea of what they are talking about.

Chances are the old hog rings were attached to a metal wire. These hard metal wires go throughout all of the different areas of your interior and form a skeleton for which the leather attaches too. Some of the other things the leather will hog-ring too is parts of the metal lacing that runs through the backs of the interior. This part looks most like what a bed spring pattern looks like.

That's going to be pretty easy..
...so now we'll show you the front seats. If you're worried about the backs, just go over this tutorial, because we will cover all the same stuff.

Removing the seat from the car
How do you get the seat somewhere to work on? First, get the seat out of the car by removing the 4 bolts holding it to the car. Look underneath as power seats have some wires that need to be disconnected. The connectors are easily visible. They are easier to get at if you unbolt the seat first and tilt it back to get underneath.


This is a good opportunity to clean your carpet too. If you don;t have a steam cleaner, get "tough Stuff" foam carpet cleaner. Scrub your stains out with it, following the directions. It's awesome stuff, and you won;t get a better opportunity to get at your carpet easily.
Stock OEM 3000GT seat.. passenger side. Old, broken down, stained & destroyed The seat is basically 2 pieces, the back and the base. We will start with the back as it's easiest to start taking apart. You'll want to take off the seat backing first. Accessing the screws under the plastic covers is easy.
The backside of a front seat.. amazing There's the plastic covered screws at the bottom. Take those off, and the piece slides out with a few metal tabs from the top of the seat towards the bottom.

Hiding under the plastic covers is an ordinary screw.. amazing

OK, so i forgot you'd need a screwdriver, but it's still easy.
Already we can see the leather edges and the stock hog rings
The back is off, and we can now see what you will be getting very aquatinted with now.. the wire framework underneath the leather. This is about it every one.... once you have an idea of how the OEM hog rings are holding the stock leather on to this metal framework, you've seen everything to co me... because it all attaches this way.
Snub Nose Pliers cutting the first hog ring. It has begun!
It might be a good time to point out that the stock "hog rings" are very small, copper looking, and round. They didn't actually use hog rings like we are using, because they have big robots to put these rings on. Just don;t freak out because their rings are small, and ours are much bigger and angled (triangle). The leather will still pull tight and be fine. The bigger hog rings are much easier to work with as well.

Continuing to cut the hog rings After unwrapping the leather from the backside you can get at the front side hog rings. Some of the hog rings are pretty easy to see, and of course there is a pattern to where they are placed. You'll get a feel for how many inches they are apart. You'll feel tension in some places and know one is there, and dig down to get at it. All the while, keep in mind that you'll need to put hog rings back in these spots, so don't forget where it is.
Peeling back the old leather You can see 4 spots where the hog rings where in the center. Those 4 spots were the place that brought in the leather at the seams. You might be able to tell that there is still one hog ring up there in the corner.
Leather pulled taught underneath the seat As you pull away the leather you'll see all the different ways that the leather is attached. Keep all of this in mind, as there will be a test.. when you put the new leather on!
Snub Nose Pliers cutting a hog ring off a metal framework piece. here's a good shot of a hog ring on the metal framework. This framework is where all of your hog rings will end up for the leather. The metal runs through and back out of the foam that makes up the cushion of the seats. Take care not to pull so hard on it that you tear the foam.
Plastic Clip on base of seat. Your foot may look different. To the left here you can see a plastic tab piece that wraps the front leather down and pulls it taught. It's one of the few places that hog rings aren't what's holding the leather, but it is still easy to detach.
Seat with the base off I found it easier to just remove the seat base to do it. You'll see as you work how to get at the leather and attach the hog rings easiest. This is also a good opportunity to clean your chair.. I took some soap, water, and then armor all to the plastic recliner lever and surrounding plastic. It's almost impossible to get to all of this in the car, so why not take a few minutes to get it looking perfect?
Here we got the headrest piece out. You push the base together & it comes right out. Note where the hole is, because once the leather is wrapped, you'll need to poke a hole so you can shove that piece right back in.
Shoot to the future.. the headrest position piece goes back in. This is out of order, but here's how we put the headrest piece back in. Just a relatively small hole is good to push the piece through, and the leather will stretch. If it is too small, just cut it a little more. remember you can cut more, but you can't cut less, so go slow and watch the leather stretch as it goes in.
Starting to put on the new leather!
Laying out the new leather to see what goes where. Now that you've stripped the old leather off, it's time to put the new leather on. You have to keep in mind that you have to do the innermost hog rings first. The inner rows of the seams we mentioned before need to be done first. Then work your way out, until you get to the edges. I took one row at a time, and as you work it's obvious how this should go. If you end up missing something, you can always cut the hog ring and go back and get the one you missed.

There is allot of room for error and if you do mess up it's not the end of the world.

Take care to massage the leather into place. It's not plastic.. it stretches and bends. It also sticks, so sometimes you may need to lift up and pull over a corner and get it into the right place. Make sure that you get the leather fitted on the part you are working on carefully. It is easier to go slowly and look at corners, making sure the peaks/corners of the leather are on the peaks/corners of the foam.

Leather base reattached here we are with the leather reattached at the base. The back is done at this point. Lets take a look.
Back done without the base attached. here you can see the back on and done. You'll notice some creases in the leather. These can be massaged out for the most part, and of course after a few weeks the leather relaxes and these creases pretty much go away completely. You can see the plastic clean too... the seat is looking better than new!
Seat ready to go back in. Here's the finished seat, ready to go back in! The power seat is heavy and unwieldy, so if it seems like you can;t get it back in get someone to help guide it. Those wrinkles will relax in time as the leather stretches slightly to fit the seat. You can see the backseats are already done and installed as well!
Let's see how it looks in our 3000Gt Spyder!
Looking brand new and better than ever Side angle Close up and blinging Your initial reaction to new leather seats, besides the obvious complete updating of the look of the car, is how they FEEL. What you don;t realize is that the old broken down stretched leather over the years lost all of it's comfort. I used to think the foam did all of the cushioning, but it really is the leather seats that makes all of the difference. The seats felt brand new, and I couldn't believe that they were my old seats. If I hadn't done it myself I'd think the foam had been replaced.

So what are you waiting for.. this is THEE mod to do to your ride, and nothing else changes a car so entirely than new leather. You feel it, you see it, and you'll love it!

Do you have questions? Want to know specifics about colors available, stitching, shipping, etc? Call the guys at leatherseats.com. They were extremely knowledgeable with my car, and have several hundred different patterns for all sorts of cars, not just the 3000GT.
Their toll free # is 1-866-639-7328.
You can also email at sales@leatherseats.com.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Igovert500
[01:05] Igovert500: scrwe his method
[01:05] Igovert500: too much crap
[01:06] Igovert500: i just jam a garden hose in there
[01:06] Igovert500: and put it on high flow
[01:06] Igovert500: go the opposite direction too
[01:06] Igovert500: so it clears out more shit
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Old 04-04-2006, 12:21 PM   #22
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Re: cheanging turbos by Hotshot8792

Things you will need:

10 mm, 12 mm, 14 mm, 17 mm, and 19 mm sockets
at least a 3/8" ratchet
1/2" breaker bar
A universal swival joint that allows you to angle your sockets
P.B. Blaster
All the oil and coolant gaskets, and exhaust gaskets that you take apart
Upper to lower intake manifold gasket
And maybe some misc tools and a prybar

First thing you do is spray all the bolts down with PB Blaster the night before and let them soak so they will come off easier.

Step 1: remove the battery from the car, and then jack the car up and put it on jack stands.

Step 2: Take the plastic shielding off from underneath the car, drain the oil from your oil pan, and drain the coolant from your radiator.

Step 3: Disconnect the MAS, and pull the all the intake piping out of the car. Then remove the y-pipe, all the intercooler pipes that go from the y-pipe to right across the front valve cover, and remove the hard intercooler pipe that connects to the rear turbo.

Step 4: Remove the upper intake plenum and throttle body, i like to just leave them attached together so that I dont have to worry about getting a new gasket for it.

Step 5: Remove the two coolant hoses from your radiator, one on top and one on the bottom. Then undo the 4 bolts that hold the two radiator brackets in place, then pull the radiator out of the car.

Step 6: Remove the big plastic heat shield from the front and remove the big plastic heat shield from the rear. And you probably just never want to put them back in your car again because they really don't do much good.

Step 7: Get up under the car and disconnect the downpipe and let it sit on the floor.

Now its time to start pulling the turbos.

Step 8: Disconnect the oil return lines from the oil pain, then disconnect the oil feed lines from both turbos. Next disconnect the coolant lines from the turbos. If your having trouble getting to the bolts on the turbo, then just disconnect the lines from the thermostat housing.

Step 9: Disconnect both O2 housings from both turbos. There are 4 nuts on each one.

Now the only thing holding the turbos on are the exhaust manifolds. Since the front one is the easiest, lets start with that.

Step 10: Remove the 3 bolts from on top of the front exhaust manifold, and the front turbo comes right out. Be sure to place the oil return line on your new turbos before installing them. Use the new gaskets as your putting stuff back on. The new front turbo just goes back on the same way the old one came off.

Step 11: Now there are two ways you can attack the rear turbo. If you have a TD04 turbo that uses the stock turbine housing, the easiest way is to undo the clip that connects the cartridge to the turbine housing and the bolts that hold the wastegate, and just pull half the turbo out of it, and insert the new one making all the new connections. There are alignment pins to set the turbo to the correct clocking. This seems to be the easier way.

However if you need to pull the entire turbo out of the car, there is one nut on top, and 2 (a bitch i might add) underneath. Using long extensions and possibly even the universal joint, you can get the two out from underneath, then the entire turbo comes out. Just put the new turbo in the reverse process.

Step 12: Once you have the new turbos in, make sure you connect all the oil and coolant lines, and put everything back on in the reverse order, and your done.













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Old 05-12-2006, 09:36 PM   #23
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Re: FAQ..read Before Asking!

Linbckr had some useful link on what you can do with your head light fixtures, where to get them and FAQ's.


here are some more useful links for auto lighting and HIDs for all interested:

great overview. many questions answered. FAQ...nuf said http://faqlight.carpassion.info/index.html

wikipedia--great overview in one article http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headlight

different type of HID bulbs http://faqlight.carpassion.info/hl-hid-bulbs.htm

HID Planet-University (faq section, great write-ups, plenty of pics) http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/view...c382cc8 70810

HID Planet - sells certain projectors, bulbs, ballasts and other lighting options http://www.hidplanet.com/main.html

retailer that makes wire harnesses http://www.suvlights.com/index.php

1G HID retro install (PICS) http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=291237
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Old 05-22-2006, 12:03 AM   #24
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Re: FAQ..read Before Asking!

I do NOT know if these are recalls for 2nd and 3rd generation 3000gt's but they ARE recalls for 1st generation 3/S's. They are as follows:

NHTSA Safety Recalls:


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Recall date: Not reported
Units potentially affected: 3,154
NHTSA campaign number: 93V033000
Defective part or component: POWER TRAINRIVELINE (INDICATOR FORWARD OR REVERSE)

Description: A CONDITION EXISTS THAT ALLOWS OIL TO LEAK FROM THE ALL WHEEL DRIVE TRANSFER CASE. LOW OIL LEVELS IN THE TRANSFER CASE CAN CAUSE BEARING DAMAGE AND FAILURE. BEARING FAILURE IN THE TRANSFER CASE CAN RESULT INPOWER TRAIN LOCKUP WITHOUT PRIOR WARNING, WHILE THE VEHICLE IS AT HIGHWAY SPEED.THIS COULD RESULT IN A LOSS OF VEHICLE CONTROL AND AN ACCIDENT. INSTALL A C-RING TO TRANSFER CASE TO PREVENT OIL LEAKAGE, OR REPLACE TRANSFER CASE TO MAINTAIN SUFFICIENT OIL LEVELS IN THE TRANSFER CASE.

Recall date: Not reported
Units potentially affected: 658,000
NHTSA campaign number: 95V103004
Defective part or component: INTERIOR SYSTEMS:ACTIVE RESTRAINTS:BELT BUCKLES

Description: THE FRONT SAFETY BELT BUCKLE RELEASE BUTTONS CAN BREAK. THESE RED PLASTIC RELEASE BUTTONS ARE MARKED "PRESS." IF A BUTTON BREAKS, PIECES CAN FALL INTO THE BUCKLE ASSEMBLY CAUSING THE BUCKLE TO OPERATE IMPROPERLY. THE SAFETY BELTS WOULD NOT PROVIDE ADEQUATE PROTECTION TO AN OCCUPANT IN A VEHICLE CRASH. OWNERS SHOULD PROMPTLY CHECK THE CONDITION AND OPERATION OF BOTH FRONT SAFETY BELT BUCKLES AND CAREFULLY INSPECT THE RED RELEASE BUTTON FOR ANY BREAKS OR CRACKS. THEY SHOULD ENSURE THAT BOTH BUCKLES ARE OPERATING PROPERLY BY INSERTING EACH LATCH PLATE INTO ITS BUCKLE, TUGGING ON THE BELT TO MAKE SURE THE LATCH IS SECURELY LOCKED, AND THEN PRESSING THE RELEASE BUTTON. THE LATCH PLATE SHOULD POP OUT OF THE BUCKLE WHEN THE BUTTON IS PRESSED. IF EITHER RELEASE BUTTON SHOWS A SIGN OF BREAKING OR CRACKING OR IF EITHER BUCKLE FAILS TO OPERATE PROPERLY, OWNERS SHOULD PROMPTLY CONTACT THEIR AUTHORIZED DEALER TO SCHEDULE AN APPOINTMENT TO HAVE THE BUCKLE REPLACED OR REPAIRED, FREE OF CHARGE. THE MANUFACTURER IS DEVELOPING A REMEDY DESIGNED TO PREVENT FAILURE OF THE BUTTONS THAT ARE NOT CURRENTLY BROKEN.

Recall date: Not reported
Units potentially affected: 10,000
NHTSA campaign number: 96V143002
Defective part or component: BRAKES:HYDRAULIC:LINES:HOSE:NON-METALLIC

Description: UNDER CONDITIONS OF FULL LOCK STEERING AND FULL SUSPENSION TRAVEL, THE LEFT OR RIGHT FRONT WHEEL-SIDE BRAKE HOSE CAN CRACK, RESULTING IN BRAKE FLUID LEAKAGE. BRAKE FLUID LEAKAGE WILL CAUSE ILLUMINATION OF THE BRAKE WARNING LAMP AND REDUCTION IN BRAKING EFFECTIVENESS INCREASING THE RISK OF A VEHICLE ACCIDENT. DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE LEFT AND RIGHT FRONT WHEEL-SIDE BRAKE HOSES WITH REVISED HOSE ASSEMBLIES.

Recall date: Not reported
Units potentially affected: 53,162
NHTSA campaign number: 98V311000
Defective part or component: INTERIOR SYSTEMS:ACTIVE RESTRAINTS:BELT BUCKLES

Description: Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles sold in the Caribbean. In the front passenger seat of these vehicles, which are equipped with Takata belt buckles, the seat belt release buttons, which are made of ABS plastic material and marked "PRESS," can break, allowing pieces to fall into the buckle assembly. If pieces fall into the buckle assembly, the buckle may not operate properly, failing to properly restrain an occupant in the event of a crash. Dealers will repair the front seat belt buckles.
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Old 07-12-2006, 03:29 PM   #25
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Re: FAQ..read Before Asking!

Driveshaft discussion.

A semi-common problem is worn u-joints/carrier bearings.

A lot of times carrier bearings and u-joints can be mistaken for one another.
Worn carrier bearings cause a loud/violent thump when shifting or under hard acceleration, and can lead to bad u-joints.
Bad u-joints tend to shake when shifting and a bit under light acceleration, but at higher speeds there may not be any vibration.

Want to make sure? Jack it up and get under the car, grab the driveshaft and try to move it, it shouldn't move. If you are getting obvious movement, you need to replace hte carrier bearings. Check out these links:

http://www.penguinhosting.net/~bigma...riveshaft.html

The carrier bearings are $60-65 each at Norco
951-735-7100 (That maybe with the 3si discount, I'm not sure, but if they quote you higher and you are a 3si member, I'd mention it)

Bad U-joints however aren't really serviceable, and therefore not as cheap to replace. At this point, you typically have to replace the entire driveshaft so many go with a lightweight one. The lighter the driveshaft, the less rotational mass, and therefore the less hp is wasted trying to spin it, this basically means less parasitic drivetrain loss and therefore more of hte hp your engine is making makes it to the wheels/ground.

Currently there are a few carbon fiber options, and I believe possibly an aluminum driveshaft or 2 available as well (but I'm not positive). You can get 1 or 2 piece driveshafts. The 1 piece are lighter, but some complain of vibration issues, and opt for the 2 piece. I have heard PST will assist you if you order hte 1 piece and later decide to switch to the 2 piece...they also offer a $100 3si discount. http://www.pstds.com/carbonfiber.htm

Dynamic Racing also sells ACPT CF driveshafts at: http://www.dynamicracing.com/customer/home.php?cat=117
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96 3000gt vr4
-K&N FIPK
-Proboost mbc
-Cusco front + rear strut bars
-Greddy type-s
-ATR downpipe
-no cats
-15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly.

Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical.
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Old 09-15-2006, 07:54 PM   #26
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Re: FAQ..read Before Asking!

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=594435

Thread with a lot of good stuff about Auto Tranny problems, including trouble shooting, part numbers, pulling codes from the TCU, replacing TCU, etc.
Generally look for the posts by Linebckr
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96 3000gt vr4
-K&N FIPK
-Proboost mbc
-Cusco front + rear strut bars
-Greddy type-s
-ATR downpipe
-no cats
-15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly.

Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical.
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Old 03-02-2007, 01:32 PM   #27
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Cleaning your upper engine with Seafoam!!!! EASY~!!!

Get a can of seafoam, it was $5 for me yesterday and it made my car feel better than it has ever fealt before..

I used to use carb cleaner and just spray out the intake and never noticed a difference in feel after clearing it out of the engine, not like with the seafoam.

What you do is simple pour 1/3 a pint of the seafoam into a glass jar... then take a vaccume hose thats connected to any part of the upper intake plenum (I used the one that connects to my BOV) and with the engine on (must be warmed up for propper fogging I am told) you SLOWLY use the vaccume line to suck the 1/3 pint of seafoam into the intake.. Go slow and for heavens sake do not dunk the vaccume line under the surface much or you will stall the engine a second later and have to turn it over till it clears out enough to start again... Just barely touch the surface of the liquid with the hoze and it will suck a bunch in, do it in short bursts till its all gone from the jar.. Then re connect the vaccume hose you used and shut off the engine and leave it to work its magic in your heads cylinders and intake.. Go back after 5 minutes and start the engine.. it may not want to start but let it crank and get some freash air to burn.. once it starts up it can get EXTREEMLY smoky and may piss off neighbors, thats all the gunk in your engine coming out! Rev it up to 3-4k and keep doing that for a few minutes till it feels pretty good and perky (not bogged down by the seafoam so much anymore)... so thats when you take it out for a few loops around the block (again can be very smoky if you have a dirty upper portion of your engine like mine was), give it some load while your out there and dont be shy with it.. after a few miles or so and a few hard pulls it will start to not smoke under load or at all anymore and thats it!

I noticed a MUCH better climb in PRM and my engine sounds a lot nicer, it also dosent make a horrid noise I have yet to figure out when starting up! Who knows if it makes more power but boy does it feel like it, much better response from my engine and a little less choppy idle. I never fealt as much of an increase in performance from any of my other mods alone even turning the boost up to 15.. and this one costs $5 and is very easy and should be done to any and every car at least once when it gets up there in miles. I plan on doing it to both my parents cars and mine again in a few weeks. I'd take a vid since it sounds so excellent but its snowing and raining out today.

Check out vids on www.youtube.com of the smoking, its pretty cool in and of itslef.. can look like a good burnout! Just search for seafoam.
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1995 3000GT VR-4
Installed: ESP front precat eliminating downpipe, test pipe, RF-1008 K&N, Dejon tool Y pipe, 1G DSM BOV, MSD wires, Guted rear pre cat, ISSPRO EV Marine boost gauge, IPO MBC, EGR blockoffs, Palm m515 dataloger setup, NGK iridium plugs, SPEC stage II clutch 500ft/lb, 5300k HID plug and play setup.

Soon:Topline Engineering ground wires.
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Old 04-07-2007, 02:06 PM   #28
Hotshot8792
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Re: FAQ..read Before Asking!

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Daily Driver: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition

1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL-TT Automatic - Black
3.05 L Arias Forged Pistons, Pauter Forged Rods, DR Stage 3 heads, 3SX TD05 kit w/ E16G's, CX Racing FMIC, 550cc injectors, Walbro 255lph pump, + supporting mods

1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 - Black
Intake & Boost Controller so far


2006 Sea-Doo RXP Supercharged, Updraded SC, IC + supporting mods
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Old 06-12-2007, 05:11 PM   #29
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Re: FAQ..read Before Asking!

DATALOGGING

pertinent threads:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ght=datalogger
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ght=datalogger
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ght=datalogger
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ght=datalogger

useful info:

software development and info: MMCD v 1.8g
direct download for MMCD v1.8g.
datalogging software sites http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...62&postcount=2

----------------

a datalogger consists of a program running on a plam type device, connected to the diagnostic port via a few cables, and one special cable, denoted "datalogger cable".

you can easily find a palm type device used on ebay for about $10-$50. i recommend getting a device that has a color screen, so that when logging different parameters, you can tell the difference on a graph by different colored lines. but if you want to go the really cheap route, a black and white color screen will work fine, as you can display different parameters either in graph mode, or in number mode. below in the pics you will see a cradle and a palm serial cable. the cradles are relatively easy to find on ebay, and are used to transfer to datalogging software to and from your palm and computer. the palm serial cable is not so easily found. you may have to search and search on ebay, but when you do find one, it will be around $10. you need the serial connector on this cable to connect to the datalogger cable.

Datalogger Cables & Software
MirageCorp sells datalogger cables, but they are a bit pricey at $70 for the OBD1 (1st Gens = 91-93) and $250 for 94-95 cars [hybrid OBD, between OBDI (91-93) and OBDII (96-99)] for the cable and software. there are some other new software Hand Held Halo Datalogging (aka HHH) that is talked about a lot on 3Si. i have not researched this as the older methods work just fine. TMO (Technomotive) Dataloggers are another option. Jeff Lucius documents its use on his stealth316 website: http://www.stealth316.com/2-tmo2.htm. There is also a product called Scanmaster that can log many different parameters. Scanmaster has been around for a long time, and many platforms, other than the 3S, use it.

So many of the aforementioned products include the cable + software in the package. however, all will cost you at least $100. the most cost effective route i have found is to purchase your own datalogger cable and download some free, open-sourced software. the datalogger cables i use and recommend to everybody are well built with ABS plastic, plug and play, and are only $35 shipped. you can also get a gender changer adapter (pictured below, last pic) for an extra $5 from the same guy. he is user Countdepolygonze on Ebay. he does not always have an auction on ebay, but perhaps once a week you might find one. you could always contact him through ebay and ask to purchase a cable.

as for the free software, there are 2 options: Tunerstein and Palmnstein - the original free logging software and MMCD. the latter, MMCD, is by far the best of the free software, AND the best software overall. however, as far as i know, it will only work for the OBDI cars (91-93). if your car is a hybrid (94-95), then you're only option is MirageCorp's software + cable. for more info on MMCD than you ever wanted to know, check out the software development and info for MMCD v1.8g, and for the direct download of the software, click here.

once you have downloaded the software, you'll need a way to transfer it from your computer to the palm device. the Palm Desktop & HotSync is a free program you can download to interface your palm with your computer. the program is device specific, so you'll have to first choose which palm you have (e.g. m100, m105, etc) and then get the program. for a list of known compatible palm devices that work with datalogging software and our 3S cars, go here.

i highly recommend that you get a memory card for you palm device, and load the datalogging software onto the memory card. this is because WHEN (not if, because it will happen) the batteries in your palm die, all of the programs loaded onto the palm itself (minus the operating system) are deleted/lost. but if you have the datalogging software loaded onto the memory card, then it will not be lost. so instead of having to re-download the software program from your computer to the palm, simply access it from the memory card when you replace your batteries.

palm on cradle


cradle (used to connect palm to computer to transfer datalogs or upload/download software)


palm cable (palm connection to serial connector)


datalogger cable (serial connector to OBD diagnostic connector)


sometimes a serial gender changer is needed to connect the 2 male serial connectors of the palm cable and datalogger cable
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93 3000GT base
K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2
coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit

Last edited by Linebckr49; 06-22-2007 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 04-10-2008, 09:41 PM   #30
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Guide To Understanding Pre-Cats

This hopefully will help in future questions. There will always be new people to engines. I made this for my other home, at florida3s and thought I would share it here.

First off, you may be wondering... "What is a precat"

A precat, or pre-catalytic converter, is like a filter for your exhaust fumes, much like your main cat. For those new to motors and 3S's, a catalytic converter is like a honey comb like compound placed inside a metal tube, as part of your exhaust. A catalyst is a chemical which speeds up or reacts with another chemical in chemical changing state. So, in turn, a catalytic converter reacts with your exhaust gas to lower nitrogen oxides, and carbon dioxide, which both are normal compounds from your raw exhaust fumes. With a catalytic converter, your car is safer for the enviroment.

Your next question may be... "If I have a main cat, why do I have precats"

Good question. The answer is, your catalytic converter contains rare metals such as platinum, to work correctly. Metal expands when it is heated, and thus, it must be a certain size to work correctly when you are driving around town to the local Taco Bell, city driving. When you first start your car, your cat has not had time to heat up, and does not do its job filtering your exhaust, because it has not expanded. So what do they do? They stick in "precats" directly after your exhaust manifold, that way your car is not polluting the enviroment during warm up. That whole 3-5 minutes....

After your main cat finally warms up, you have no need for your precats right?? That's right!! But!!! They are still there, and still restricting your exhaust. They are pretty much permanent.

Now I know you are asking yourself "Does my 3S have precats?"

Here is the list.
1st Gen 3000GT's/Stealths (1991-1993)... The TT models do. N/A's don't, although they are both called fed-spec.

2nd Gen 3000GT's/Stealths... Sometimes. Some 3S's in 1994 and 1995 were "hybrid" and kept the fed-spec feature. The Cali-spec were thrown into the mix with precats, if your car has an O2 housing as described below. All 1996's had cali-spec.

3rd Gen 3000GT's - Yes... Now fully cali-spec.

"Why did you say they are permanent?"

They are, to a degree. I call them permanent because of the use of O2 sensors. You have 2, or 4, in your Cali-spec. The first, or before your precats, are used to tell your ECU if your car is operating correctly by measuring the O2 in your exhaust, directly after your exhaust manifold. The sensors past your precats are used to make sure your precats are doing their job.. Damn them!

"What can I do about them?"

Gut them! Take off your downpipe, chisel out the icky honey comb stuff, and leave your O2 housing clean as a whistle...

"Won't that throw a check engine light, since you just said the O2 sensor was there to make sure it was doing its job?"

Not if you get an O2 simulator (www.3sx.com), which sends the correct voltage to your ECU from the O2 sensor, making it think everything is working correctly, even though you just took on a big DIY job.

The 96+ are the only ones that need the 02 sims

"Why gut your precats?"

The answer is simple. If you have a twin turbo, you will notice your turbos spooling up much quicker. Personally, I have a N/A, with just a K&N drop in filter.. woo hoo. My peak RPM for power used to be 4,500 and drop. After gutting my precats, I pull hard up to 6,000. It also sounds bad ass.

"Is it hard to gut them?"

It was fun for me, took me about 9 hours with my buddy, goofing off. I started at 6 p.m. and finished early 3 a.m. using just a chisel.

"What about a test pipe? I hear about them on FL3S all the time."

A test pipe just replaces your main cat, which is 24 inches of the same crap. I am waiting for mine from 3SX, and hopefully I will pull way hard up to my redline with the combination of kitty-less-ness.

"What's the catch?"

It's not exactly legal... But we live in Florida, and no smog checks.. But this is a mod of the... off road racer? If you live, or move away, and only have your modded 3S, and on your way to Taco Bell realize you aren't street legal and realize you have a smog check coming up, just get it checked after driving your car around for about 30 minutes where your main cat is working at its fullest. Tisk Tisk for you driving an enviroment polluting car.

And most importantly "Where are the precats?"

The precats are located after your exhaust manifolds. After the gas begins to hit your downpipe, it actually runs into your O2 housing first, which is part of the downpipe. The flange meets up with the 2.5" or 3" manifold, and with the precats inside, looks like a bloated tube. After the exhaust finishes being cleaned, it finishes through the rest of your now straight downpipe, to your main cat. You can tell if you are fed-spec or cali-spec by looking beneath your exhaust manifold and determining whether the downpipe remains one diameter, or "bloats" and increases with diameter.

*You will only be able to check the front, because the rear is hidden by a lot of engine stuff..

"Where can I get more information and pictures?"

Here is the sight for gutting them. Even if you don't gut them, you can see what the O2 housing looks like, as well as the downpipe, and so on.

http://www.3si.org/forum/f1/gutting-...h-pics-318074/
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Last edited by Stealthee; 04-11-2008 at 07:47 AM.
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