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Old 03-01-2005, 10:07 PM   #1
00blackzx3
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High Stalling Torque Converter>> VERY IMPORTANT

I am wanting an aftermarket high stall torque converter. I have some questions regarding this:

1. Do TC's hurt gas mileage?
2. Are they expensive to install?
3. Where can i buy one of these and waht brans are there?
4. Where can I get my OEM (stock) TC high stalled?

* I want to be able to stall my car at 3500 or 4000 rpm, this means it will "idle" at high stalls right?
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Old 03-02-2005, 01:12 AM   #2
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Re: High Stalling Torque Converter>> VERY IMPORTANT

Quote:
Originally Posted by 00blackzx3
I am wanting an aftermarket high stall torque converter. I have some questions regarding this:

1. Do TC's hurt gas mileage?
2. Are they expensive to install?
3. Where can i buy one of these and waht brans are there?
4. Where can I get my OEM (stock) TC high stalled?

* I want to be able to stall my car at 3500 or 4000 rpm, this means it will "idle" at high stalls right?
PM'd you back

1. They might hurt gas mileage 1 mpg or so, but if they do, its not much.
2. Installation requires dropping the transmission to the ground and no more. If you can do it yourself then installation is free, if you can't then it will cost roughly the same amount to change out a clutch on a manual, except its easier than changing out a clutch cause you dont have to sit there and line it all up. It took longer to change out my friends VR-4 clutch then it did to put a torque converter on.
3. PM'd you the info
4. Not sure what your asking there.

And as far as the stall, no, your idle will be the same. You will feel the difference when you accelerate off the line as your engine will catch at a higher rpm level than normal, but it still wont catch at 3500 rpms if you daily drive it, probably at around 2800 vs. 2000-2200 on the stock torque converter. Where you get your extra kick in at 3500-4000 rpms is when you brake torque for racing at the dragstrip. One thing about a high-stall torque converter though is that i makes your car just a little bit less streetable, but its still streetable
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1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 - Black
Intake & Boost Controller so far


2006 Sea-Doo RXP Supercharged, Updraded SC, IC + supporting mods
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Old 03-02-2005, 11:51 AM   #3
00blackzx3
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Re: High Stalling Torque Converter>> VERY IMPORTANT

oh this thing doesnt sound as nice as i though it was. I was thinking at a stoplight my car would somehow be idling a lot higher, creating more torque earlier
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Old 03-02-2005, 04:32 PM   #4
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Re: Re: High Stalling Torque Converter>> VERY IMPORTANT

Quote:
Originally Posted by 00blackzx3
oh this thing doesnt sound as nice as i though it was. I was thinking at a stoplight my car would somehow be idling a lot higher, creating more torque earlier
That wouldn't exactly be the best thing for your car anyway. You should probably stick with the pulleys that were recommended to you in the other thread. Personally, I would also recommend an intake to give you a little more of a jump off the line. If you really want higher rpm's though, I think there is a way to adjust what your car idles at.
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Old 03-03-2005, 12:41 AM   #5
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Re: Re: High Stalling Torque Converter>> VERY IMPORTANT

Quote:
Originally Posted by 00blackzx3
oh this thing doesnt sound as nice as i though it was. I was thinking at a stoplight my car would somehow be idling a lot higher, creating more torque earlier
uhmm, it does give you more torque off the line when you get on it, like when your racing. Why would you want more torque when your just normally driving. You will always idle the same. Do this, sit at a stop, and then slam the gas to the floor, you will notice that your rpms will fly up to 2200 rpms real fast and then you move. With a high-stall, it'll do this at 4000 rpms putting you much closer to the power band. Also, high-stall torque converters are built to give a torque multiplication which increases the torque. Trust me, you dont want your car idling at 4 grand.
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Daily Driver: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition

1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL-TT Automatic - Black
3.05 L Arias Forged Pistons, Pauter Forged Rods, DR Stage 3 heads, 3SX TD05 kit w/ E16G's, CX Racing FMIC, 550cc injectors, Walbro 255lph pump, + supporting mods

1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 - Black
Intake & Boost Controller so far


2006 Sea-Doo RXP Supercharged, Updraded SC, IC + supporting mods

Last edited by Hotshot8792; 03-03-2005 at 07:00 PM.
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Old 03-03-2005, 06:04 PM   #6
00blackzx3
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Re: High Stalling Torque Converter>> VERY IMPORTANT

i would never make it off the line if my open throttle went to 4grand. I cant even make it off the line now flooring it, just sits there and spins like crazy. I even have 265 tires on it.
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Old 03-03-2005, 07:02 PM   #7
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Re: Re: High Stalling Torque Converter>> VERY IMPORTANT

Quote:
Originally Posted by 00blackzx3
i would never make it off the line if my open throttle went to 4grand. I cant even make it off the line now flooring it, just sits there and spins like crazy. I even have 265 tires on it.
lol, thats when suspension work, ECS, LSD, and drag radials come in handy. When your a FWD cutting 1.7 60's at the track, your dangerous. But obviously, AWD is better for anything on the street
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Daily Driver: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Special Edition

1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL-TT Automatic - Black
3.05 L Arias Forged Pistons, Pauter Forged Rods, DR Stage 3 heads, 3SX TD05 kit w/ E16G's, CX Racing FMIC, 550cc injectors, Walbro 255lph pump, + supporting mods

1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 - Black
Intake & Boost Controller so far


2006 Sea-Doo RXP Supercharged, Updraded SC, IC + supporting mods
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