1/8 talbot lago t26c

[PROPELLER]

Hi all!

Well, oil tank, more...







The other side:







Dan.

[cinqster]

Fantastic work Dan!
It's inspired me enough to get back on with the Stutz!

[jaykay640]

That looks awesome! Really cool stuff!

[Capri-Schorsch]

Simply......WOW!

[chasejk]

I can't keep silent anymore. Your build is what I aspire to be one day. I have recently started using brass quite a bit in my builds, so your work is nothing but inspirational.

May I ask what type of soldering you do? I use a 40 watt soldering iron, but I have always wanted to switch to a resistance type solderer (too pricey right now). I always have trouble with "unsoldering" all the bits that were previously soldered, especially on really tiny parts. It can really ruin a perfect job. Do you have any suggestions?

Here are some examples of why it can be a challenge. This is on a 1/35 MH-60R Sea Hawk I'm building.

[cinqster]

chasejk,

I'm going to have the cheek to jump in on this one, even though I don't do a lot of soldering on models yet! However, I do solder and braze a lot of very small brass parts at work.

The trick it to get hold of two, or three, types of solder with different melting temperatures. Start with the highest temp solder first and progress down to the lower temp solder as you make more of the construction. If the un-soldering of parts is still an issue, you could try using a heat sink compound. This is a heat blocker that you paint onto areas that need heat protection.

You may be getting the parts far too hot, as solders have the neat function of needing more heat to melt a second time. With loads of practice you can use this function to solder joints close to each other with the same solder type, without re-melting previous joints.

I would also suggest buying a small butane gas torch for soldering. You can pick them up for (I'd guess) around $30US - they are filled with ordinary cigarette lighter gas:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...-gas-torch-kit

They take time to master, but you get a good, small, intense flame - the skill is to keep the flame on the move to make the solder run by capillary action to the area you want and prevent too much heat build up. I find this very hard to do with an electric iron.

Hope this helps!

[Helico]

I can not believe I missed this thread. This is just mind blowing.

[PROPELLER]

Hi all and thanks!

Go ahead, Cinqster with the _fabulous_ STUTZ!

Chasejk: Cinqster said it all, in a perfect english... I always use a mini torch.

Well, today body... More:









Dan.

[PROPELLER]

Hi all!

Front axle, to check the "noise"...







MERRY CHRISTMAS!

Dan.

[gionc]

Meryy Christmas too Dan. For sure I got a fantastic <christmas morning seeing your last updates: master... this is love for modeling at the old school declination. Fantastic and motivating... and frustrating... all the preparation job with wooden molds... impresive.

May be a stupid question or been asked yet (didn't seen yet) may you show what kind of cutting tools you uses on 0.3/0.5 brass sheets to achieve so neat results?

[PROPELLER]

Hi guys!

Gionc, it's not a stupid question!
I don't cut, I buy:



Well, I'm looking to check the nose, yet!
The real front axle:



Some parts must be done...











Dan.

[PROPELLER]

Always front axle...















Dan.

[HDT143]

I thought i was clever doing plastic kits with detail this blows me away fantastic job mate.

[F1Tommy]

Amazing work. You might as well build a full size Talbot replica. I think I will stick to my 1/24th scale Heller T26. Yours is insane my friend, but in a very good way!!

Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo 2012-Chicago March 17th 2012

[JesusM]

Thanks for teaching!!