ABS Scanners

[quickcurrent]

I am wondering if anyone has successfully used a relatively inexpensive ABS scanner with an Uplander such as the Equus 3150B or 3160B or an Actron CP9580 or CP9580A AutoScanner Plus, or any other.

There is scant information readily available on what will actually support successful ABS code reading for Uplanders, so if you have any experience with this, please share.

quickcurrent

[Tech II]

What are you looking for?

If just codes, can get one $150-175....

If you are looking for ABS data, they are much more expensive....

[quickcurrent]

I have the usual messages to check ABS Brakes/Traction Control/Stability System and want to diagnose the problem so I know what is causing it. Don't need to see live data, so long as I can determine the cause of the message. But, I've read about people getting units that claim to read all vehicle ABS codes only to turn out to be useless and folks return them. I'd like to get one that works for me.

thanks,

quickcurrent

[quickcurrent]

Looks like no one perusing these threads has been able to do it!

[Tech II]

There isn't a scan tool out there that tells you how to repair your vehicle.....all they do is read codes and transmit data......and that is only half the battle....if you don't have an ABS manual with trouble trees, you can't diagnose your problem....there are even instances in the manual, where you need a bidirectional scanner that will command components in the system.....these scanners are very expensive......

However, from experience, as a GM tech, I would say 99% of all ABS problems come down to wheel speed sensors and harnesses......it rare for an ABS module/BPM(modulator that has the solenoids) to have a problem......it can happen but it's rare....on the newer vehicles, the ABS relays are built into the BPMs, and if they fail the whole unit has to be replaced....

The way I repaired ABS problems was, hook up the scan tool, and read the code....by reading the code, you narrow down which wheel circuit or circuits are at fault....it's usually just one, but if you allow things to go too long, other problems can occur and you end up with multiple problems....

Once you know which circuit is the problem, you road test the vehicle and watch the data for that circuit on a scan tool(GM scan tools have the ability to capture data, so that you can not only record it and play it back later, you can also plot it on a graph).....

The easiest to fix are the ones where there is complete circuit failure, in other words, there is no speed signal received......for example, three wheels give speed that match the speedometer.....the 4th, the one with the code reads "zero"......so I go back to the shop, put the car on a lift, rotate the wheel on the bad circuit and look at the scan tool...it reads zero......every tech has an old hub/sensor in their box(one that was replaced because of a bearing noise, but the sensor is ok)....so all i do is disconnect the harness to the sensor on the car and attach it to my test hub....i spin the hub.....I look at the scan tool......if a I get a reading now, I know it's the sensor...if I still get no reading, then I Know it's the harness(broken wire).....

The cars that are problems, are the ones where you go out on a road test, and the circuit that gave the code is working.....this is an intermittant problem....this could be caused by a bad harness that only occurs when the harness moves a certain way.....it could be water intrusion that only happens when it rains....if it doesn't act up, then it comes down to a tech's skill in assessing the answer to the problem.....as I said before, the GM scan tool can plot data.....if I don't see any data problem, then I plot it....then I look at the graph....if lucky, I will see a "blip" in the graph when the problem occured....

Sometimes water intrusion is a problem......if you disconnect the harness from the sensor, and water comes out of the harness when you shake it, in those cases, the sensor and the harness have to be replaced....

So you can see, getting an ABS scan tool for diagnosis, can be very expensive, and is not practical for a DIY'er........sometimes you get lucky with a visual inspection and see a harness broken......sometimes you can get lucky just by checking the ohm output of a sensor, and also the a/c voltage created by rotating the wheel.....but without at least something to read codes, to point you in the direction of which wheel circuit is at fault, there's not much you can do.....

[quickcurrent]

Very well put, Tech II. I fully appreciate what you are saying.

What I have is am 08 Uplander that started giving me the ABS Brake/Traction Control/Stability System message a few months back. I know from talking to my local dealer that if the ABS sensor is shot, the GM will pick up the cost of replacing the wheel hub and bearing assembly since the sensor is an integrated part of that assembly, otherwise the power train warranty does not apply and I get stuck with whatever the cost may be.

I am not interested in going down the road of spending a lot of money on trying to fix parts associated with these systems (like some other folks have done) because I can live and drive the vehicle with simple mechanical brakes (the good old way) with no ABS or traction control. However, if I can ascertain that the fault lies with the cheap sensors that GM has put into my vehicle bearing hubs, then I would go in to my local dealer and have GM pick up the cost of replacing the parts they ought to have put in of better quality to begin with. So all I would like to do is find out if the sensors are at fault and need to get an ABS reader that works with this vehicle. I've already tried reading the resistance coming from my sensors using a multimeter, but I get nothing from both front sensors, not quite sure why. Maybe I should try the rear ones. I am going to check my rear brakes tomorrow so maybe I'll try to read resistances from the rear sensors, perhaps both front sensors are faulty!

[gmtech1]

Ok, here's my 2 cents again...We already went over how to check the hubs/sensors. If there is no resistance, they are "open" and need replaced. If you want to know for sure what the problem is, why not just spend the 100.00 that it will probably cost for diag at the dealer? You will spend much more than that on a quality scanner! Unless of course you want a scanner for future use. Worst case at the dealer it will cost you 100.00 and you will know what the problem is. Best case is it is fixed at no cost to you and you are done with it!

Please don't take any offense,I'm not trying to be a smart*** about it, it just seems like alot of wasted time and effort for 100.00?

[quickcurrent]

No offense taken gmtech1, I fully appreciate what you're saying. I have thought of that, and that remains an option.

A few years ago, I went to a shop to have another GM vehicle diagnosed for a check engine light. $60.00 was the charge I paid just to hook up the OBDII code reader plus some more money to do further diagnosis to pinpoint the problem. It tuned out that the ignition wires had been installed at the factory touching each other and a spark was crossing from one wire to another, burning the rubber insulation and causing piston misfires. The whole repair for replacing a $50 set of ignition wires cost me several hundred dollars! Then I needed to do another check engine light on account of oxygen sensors failing and I went out and bought one on sale for $220, which has paid for itself many times over since then. They now can be had for $100.

I understand that garages pay big dollars for these devices when they first come out (after all somebody has to pay for the cost of research and development) but I just can't see having to pay $100 as you suggest to find out what my problem is today, then another $100 next year and so on and on, if I can buy a device for a couple of hundred dollars that will let me do that many times over in a few minutes each time. That is the reason I'd like to get an ABS code reader to know what I need to do to fix the problem, then I can decide if it's something I feel comfortable doing myself or if the garage is better suited to do the work because of the need for special tools, level of difficulty, need to hoist the vehicle that I don't have the capability of doing in my garage, etc. I guess I just like to be an educated driver so I don't get taken to the cleaners.

And, one thing I know for sure is this - all work I have ever done on my vehicles was well done, and I can't say the same thing for work I've had done at service garages - in fact, I could tell you about more horror stories that have happened to me personally with dealers and other garages than you would care to listen to. As the saying goes, if you want to have the job done well you do it yourself. Having said that, I found a very good mechanic a couple of years ago that I trust. I always knew there were some around, they're just hard to find. But it's still cheaper to do it myself and the learning experience is priceless.

So I'd still like to find an ABS scanner for, say, under $200 that will work on this 08 Uplander (and hopefully others).

[quickcurrent]

OK just checked my rear brakes - they're good for a few more seasons, mechanically.

While fiddling with the brakes I checked the resistance of my rear ABS sensors - Got 1033 ohms on the rear left and 1023 on the rear right sensor.

Since I got nothing on the multimeter from either of the front wheel ABS sensors, I presume either I have a bad sensor or harness on each side. Seems rather weird and highly unlikely that both sides would go at the same time, doesn't it? Seems like there is no way of checking whether it is the sensors or the harnesses without having a sensor (quite expensive to buy since it's all part of the hub assembly) or a harness to splice in to replace the old one, but if it's not the harness I'd end up with an unnecessary splice, yikes. Do the splices need to be soldered or can the wires simply be twisted with a cap on the ends and electrical tape wrapped around the splice, i.e. does a twist connection provide reliable service?

[quickcurrent]

Finally got this issue fixed.

One of the two wires going from the harness to the sensor on the right hand side had broken right at the harness from the weight of the rusted off clip hanging. Replaced the harness and all is well.

[Tech II]

But you said you had no resistance reading from EITHER of the front wheel speed sensors?

[quickcurrent]

Originally Posted by Tech II

But you said you had no resistance reading from EITHER of the front wheel speed sensors?

I know, I can't figure that one out, other than perhaps I wasn't making good contact with the terminals in the harness, even though I tried it several times! But, all warnings are gone without doing anything on left wheel!

[woscarr]

I just bought a Innova 3100ABS on sale for half price@99. after I returned a Autel519 because the Innova had abs for the same price.

I haven't tried it on my 08 Uplander yet but my old 02 Oldsmobile Silhouette that I have retired sitting in the barn had the abs light on for years now so hooked up my new code reader and it came back with 13 ! ABS codes !

My 02 Silhouette don't like cheap code readers, I bought 3 cheapies from china and neither would even link up with the Olds..

I will try the Innova3100abs on my uplander soon, probably this weekend and I'll let you know how it goes.


Update..; My Equus scanner was able to link up and read/erase abs codes on my 08 Uplander.
I have 5 abs codes stored

Cheers
Wayne.

[woscarr]

A little follow up..

I bought one of those mini bluetooth ob2 adapters ELM327 and got the andriod app OBD Check Pro by Torque for my tablet.

I paid 15 for the adapter and 5 for the app and it gives over 160 feedback readings from my 08 Uplander's computer. Reset codes and blackbox recording.

Cheers.
Wayne.