Need Help with a Two Tone.

[white97ex]

I've got a 2002 s-10 single cab. I have some body work and repairs to do. The base color is black, from the factory. I plan on doing a two town, bottom half black, and top half sunset orange metallic. I had a photoshop done on another site, the orange isn't quite right but it gives the general idea.

Body mods that need done:
1. Roll pan welded in
2. 3rd brake light welded up
3. smooth door handles
4. dents and dings fixed.

My questions:

With the welding and filling that will be done, there will have to be primer in various spots.

How should I approach painting the truck? Should I do the body work, prime/seal, then block the whole truck, and shoot it with the black, mask off the bottom part, then spray the orange?

I plan on doing the door jambs as well, but I will more than likely airbrush them, so as to save some time in masking and disassembly. this is my daily driver, so It need to be able to be completed (paint) form start to finish, in somewhere around a week...and be ready for the road.

any comments, tips, and the like are welcome.

if GTMike400 visits this forum...gimme some pointers bro!

[mike@af]

Originally Posted by white97ex

I've got a 2002 s-10 single cab. I have some body work and repairs to do. The base color is black, from the factory. I plan on doing a two town, bottom half black, and top half sunset orange metallic. I had a photoshop done on another site, the orange isn't quite right but it gives the general idea.

Body mods that need done:
1. Roll pan welded in
2. 3rd brake light welded up
3. smooth door handles
4. dents and dings fixed.

My questions:

With the welding and filling that will be done, there will have to be primer in various spots.

How should I approach painting the truck? Should I do the body work, prime/seal, then block the whole truck, and shoot it with the black, mask off the bottom part, then spray the orange?

I plan on doing the door jambs as well, but I will more than likely airbrush them, so as to save some time in masking and disassembly. this is my daily driver, so It need to be able to be completed (paint) form start to finish, in somewhere around a week...and be ready for the road.

any comments, tips, and the like are welcome.

if GTMike400 visits this forum...gimme some pointers bro!

Bodywork is always a first, but there is still an order in which to do it. Do all the metal work first. Properly sand and prep the area for welds, which is just a general weld ethic. If you are doing the welding/fab, let us know and I can give you a ton of tips.

After doing the metal work, block everything thats going to get a new coat of primer/paint on it. Spray an epoxy sealer. Now do your mudding (bondo). A lot of body putties have a resin in them that inhibit rust, which is why you use it over a coat of epoxy sealer instead of on bare metal. Epoxy sealing the entire car is not neccesary, but I reccomend it. The epoxy sealer should DEFINATELY be sprayed on any bare surface and feathered into the blocked original paint. Look for a good brand of body filler, I like Evercoat a lot. Also dont mix on any paper products, wood, cardboard, etc. Mix on plastic. The paper sucks out the resins in the filler and it doesnt cure properly. Same with setting it out in the sun to speed dry, dont do it. Let it cure chemically not by outside radiated heat/UV.

Now lay down a sandable filler primer. Block it. Make sure everything is perfect. Fix any errors neccesary. If you sand through to bare metal recoat that area with epoxy primer.

Lay down your base coats, clear coats, and so on. Hope that helps. Let me know what else you need to know about the body work. I do a lot of body work and fabrication, and painting when I get the chance.

Also, last thought, dont airbrush the jams. They will come out uneven. Airbrushes cant apply the paint evenly enough on large surfaces. Pull off the door panel, go back one inch mask thereon back. The reason to go in an inch around the door panel (thats removed) is so that you get a nice roll of paint, this way no old paint shows. Use the same prep for the jams as with the rest of the body.

[white97ex]

I'll only really have to spray the top of the jambs to match the orange........right?

Should I prime the whole truck, or just prime the areas that I have done the body work to and feather it into the paint, then block the truck and shoot it with a new coat of black?

body work will be minimal. fab work wont be any really. i'll buy pre stamped filler plates and my roll pan will come in the style I want. The smooth tailgate cover and relocator, along with the plate box that will have to go in the tailgate will be the most fab that I will have to do. thanks for the help mike!

[astroracer]

If the paint is in good shape you shouldn't need to prime the whole truck. Just make sure when you are sanding your body worked area's that you feather the primer into the old paint very well. Use a black epoxy primer. This will match the base paint better so you won't have a coverage problem when respraying the black.
Your bright orange will require a lighter base to get it to pop though. Spraying it over black will mute it down. If you are using HOK colors they can recommend a base which will usually be brite white or silver.
Mark

[white97ex]

It wont be HOK. It will be a PPG variant. I went yesterday to get a small amount, for a small interior project, and my model cars. It was going to be 23 bucks for 3 ounces. I can't remember which line of paint they had the formula for however.

[WDELOAD]

paint jambs.. put ondoor and what ever else.. than spot paint the primered body work spots for 1 coat, than start spraying the whole car..