Fujimi Kawasaki ZX-10R Eva 02 RT Trick Star 2011

[ace91]

Hi guys,

After completing Rossi's M1 Estoril version, I've decided to make this kit. This is my first work on Fujimi kits as I've done lots of Tamiya & some of Hasegawa.

Before I started making this kit, I have a look at the instruction sheet but then, it seems to be different compare to Tamiya & Hasegawa. Of course, different brand has different ways of making the kits but this one, I notice that there are no screws in this kit, just placement. Hopefully I can make a good one on this.

Another thing I noticed about this kit is, I don't see any placement for the tubing unlike both Tamiya & Hasegawa. Also, there's no 'T' shape to place the tubing at the brake calipers. I guess I have to think a way on that when I reach there.

Anyway, I thought of sharing on the work on Fujimi kits. First & foremost, I used X-1, X-11, X-18 & XF-56 on making this part of the engine. The photos below.











That'll be it for the time being as I started this late & since it wouldn't be the best time to do spray work & primer work at night, I have to call it for the night & wait for the weekend to continue on.

Adrian

[Pippin1974]

nice work!!! This one is in my pile so I will take a look!

[John18d]

Hi Adrian - looks like you are one of the first to do this kit - I have the "purple" 2010 kit and the "purple and the "red" 2011 kits - not sure what bike number they are - in my stash to build - I will follow your thread on this one too. Looks like you are off to a good start - John

[John18d]

Adrian- Top Studio makes a detail kit for the 2010 ZX 10R - not sure if it will fit the 2011 version - from what I can tell there is some similarity between the two bikes but the frames and swingarms and body work are completely different. - John

[John18d]

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul....php?t=1080176 -Adrian take a look at modellerone's build - John

[ace91]

Hi,

Thanks for the comments.

John - Thanks for the links and advice. I got some idea on the kit by looking at Marcel's work.

Here, I find that I have to put up a little work before I started priming the swing arm & the frame. I noticed that the one of the half of the frame has a little excess as I circled that part in red (hope you guys can see them) & I have to clean it up using the file. The swing arm is also the same as well as there are excess parts sticking out as I've circled them in red. The photos below.





After I've primed & paint them, I've attached the frame to the engine. I wish that Fujimi has screws like both Tamiya & Hasegawa kits. Attaching them can be a little bit of a challenge, but it took me a while to attach the frame together with the engine. Photos below.







The photo of the swing arm after priming & painting them.



I will continue more on the work on the swing arm & further part of the kit tomorrow.

Adrian

[John18d]

Adrian - I am wondering - is it possible to modify the kit so that screws can be used? Just asking - I haven't looked close enough to my kits to determine if it is possible - I'm afraid to open another model box because I might start building it - and I already have 4 Lemans kits in the works right now - I have to finish them off before I start any new ones. I'm running out of space for them and I've got parts everywhere - trying not to mix them up - John

[John18d]

Oh! Adrian I ordered a Top Studio detail kit from "Dave" in Macau - it was quite reasonable - $54 shipped to me - it has a set of photo etch - a metal muffler - Forks - rear shock - brakes - shifter rod - and a resin tree - wiring - etc - check out their website for pictures of it. - if you want me to send you the link for the item - I can PM it to you - I think it is better than the hobby design kit - John

[modellerone]

Hey,
I have used both sets.
The TopStudio Set have the Front fork Set, the HD Set have the chain.
the rest is similar to.
Marcel

[ace91]

Hi again,

As I normally do spray work outside my house, I have to depend on the weather. That time when I was doing the spray work in the morning, the weather was kind of a little cold & humid, so the time it took to dry takes longer than usual. If it was a hot day, it can take minutes for them to dry. Thus, the work is a little slow today.

Anyway, this is the photo of the swing arm after chipping the excess off & painted them with TS-29.



For the fairings, I used TS-49. The bottom fairing will be done later. I wasn't sure the right colouring but when I have a look at various sources, somehow the pics have convinced me to use TS-49 as the colour.



For attaching the absorber, chain & tyre, it was quite a pain for me especially though I am a Chinese but then, I can't read much of Chinese writings unlike Japanese writing but I wouldn't be able to read fully if there are Chinese writings in the mix with Japanese writings. Cause I can't tell which word is 'long' & 'short' in the instruction sheet. Only if it was written in Japanese.





I first tried to use the short rod but it was a little short to join both swing arms. If I put at one end of the swing arm, the other part will be loose. So, I thought what if i use the long rod & put those together. Oh well, despite the long rod sticks out a little, hopefully the front fork part when attaching the wheel wouldn't be short.

Ironically, when I used another rod which is longer than the shortest rod & shorter than the longest rod, it fits like a glove when I attached the swing arm to the frame as the photos below.





If Fujimi has suggestion section, I would write to them suggesting them to consider having parts that can be screwed like swing arm, frame, fairings, etc.

After a torturous work on the swing arm when I was figuring out which long rod to use & the time is already late when I was continuing my work, I'll call it for the night here. Hopefully can do more work tomorrow.

Adrian

[John18d]

Adrian - looks like you are figuring things out just fine. I agree with your assessment to use TS-49 "bright red". That is the color I will use when I build my Trick star kit. Paint all looks very good. - John

Adrian did you see where Marcel said he used parts from both Top Studio and Hobby Design detail kits? - John

[ace91]

Originally Posted by John18d

Adrian - looks like you are figuring things out just fine. I agree with your assessment to use TS-49 "bright red". That is the color I will use when I build my Trick star kit. Paint all looks very good. - John

Adrian did you see where Marcel said he used parts from both Top Studio and Hobby Design detail kits? - John

Hi John,

Yes, I've read Marcel's message.

I was unsure about the colour at first cause both the box kit & the instruction sheet suggested metallic red but when I saw the colouring scheme for metallic red from Tamiya TS series, I wasn't convinced by the suggestion from the kit as I find that the metallic red in TS series is a little too dark. Cause I believe that the colour should be striking red & not the dull or dark type.

Then, 2 choices came into my mind that is either bright red or florescent red. That was when I was looking up for the pic at various sources & it was when I decided to use bright red that time.

Adrian

[ace91]

I did some work on the kit again today. The photo below is the exhaust with heat stain on the exhaust (without the radiator that time).



As for the radiator, I've used TS-17 which I believe it's quite normal as I've done with Tamiya kits. As for the black part on the tube, I used X-18. It's kind of loose if I don't put cement on it.







For the fork I used X-26 : 3 + X-32 : 1 to paint it. The other part I used X-11, X-18 & XF-28. I got the idea of the ratio of X-26 : 3 + X-32 : 1 from the Tamiya kits for the M1 & the ZX-RR kit. I happened to wonder what's the combination right colour of the front fork then I happened to think 'How will I paint them if I do not purchase the upgrade parts?' That was when I had a look at the instruction sheets on the M1 & the ZX-RR kit. This is the output of the paints that I've used to paint the front fork. Kind of a little dark if you ask me.







Placing the mud guard is a little annoying as it doesn't place properly. It took me a while to get it placed but at least I managed to place it though. Really need some patience in attaching the mud guard that time.

That will be it for tonight. As I've done all the spray work needed, the rest is just about painting & attaching them. If I'm not tired after work, I will continue working on the kit.

Adrian

[John18d]

you've got this one almost done Adrian - John

[ace91]

Hi,

It took me a while to place the cockpit along with the handlebars. I find that the handlebars is a little loose from there especially after placing the tube underneath the fuel tank cover. I wish that the instruction sheet tells us to put the tubing earlier on before attaching to the handlebars. Cause that time I have to open up the fuel tank cover again to put the wire underneath it as I've tried to put it through the space but couldn't.

Another thing when I reached this stage is as I've said before in the earlier post, there's no 'T' shape thing that normally RC211V series, M1 series, ZX-RR series & even those from Hasegawa have but in this kit, there's none. Kind of dumb if you ask me.

Anyway, here are the photos of the naked bike. At the moment, it took me a while to put the foot peg, the other parts, etc. up to this point. The final attachment of the fairings will be done hopefully tomorrow night as I've not painted the inside part of the fairings.

















Phew.... way too tired after making this kit up to this stage as I've started this somewhere later in the night that is around 10.00pm my country time.

Adrian