intake gaskets

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by benjaminj0711

If any one can tell me the arrangement and if they have to be a specific way for flow.

Welcome to AF.

The pushrods should have been kept in order. Since they are mixed up there will be no specific order and you may have to consider installing new pushrods and possibly lifters. In the meantime you can tell the difference between the exhaust and intake pushrods because the exhaust pushrods will be longer than the intake pushrods. See pic below.

[benjaminj0711]

Thank you,

I really appreciate the reply to my post. That information but what I need to know is ther order . Basically, which is exhaust and which is intake. I know that the exhaust is 6 " and the intake is 5 3/4 ".


If you could let me know that would great .

Thank you,

ben

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by benjaminj0711

Thank you,

I really appreciate the reply to my post. That information but what I need to know is ther order . Basically, which is exhaust and which is intake. I know that the exhaust is 6 " and the intake is 5 3/4 ".


If you could let me know that would great .

Thank you,

ben

See the original post where the OP took time to post excellent pics and instructions. There should be a section where it mentions placement. See below.

Click here

[benjaminj0711]

Hello,


I took a loiok at the original post and I did not see a picture where he had them out ,so I could see their order. He made mention of it in the ad.


I'm just going to copy the picture and replace everything . I should be okay



Thank you

[wafrederick]

You do not have to go the dealer for new intake bolts anymore and Dorman Products fixed this.Dorman has an intake gasket kit out for the 3100 and 3400 with new intake bolts and the o ring for the oil pump drive.The intake gaskets are made out of metal instead of plastic and is cheaper than Fel Pro.

[GringoPete]

I just bought an 05 Impala for my wife and i was wondering what years were affected by the LIM.

['97ventureowner]

I believe for the Impala(3.4) it was 2000 to 2003. GM issued a revised gasket in the summer of 2002 and the issue should have been resolved by the end of the 2003 model run.
I have seen some issues with the 3.8 engine run until 2004.
Your 2005 should be free of LIM issues related to it's predecessors.

[GringoPete]

Originally Posted by '97ventureowner

I believe for the Impala(3.4) it was 2000 to 2003. GM issued a revised gasket in the summer of 2002 and the issue should have been resolved by the end of the 2003 model run.
I have seen some issues with the 3.8 engine run until 2004.
Your 2005 should be free of LIM issues related to it's predecessors.

That's a relief......Thanks

[dannym]

Originally Posted by surrender

Hey there everyone. I thought I would take a few moments to express my thanks to those in the forum that provided me input on my intake gasket fix, so thanks richtazz, crazy jim, LA1. For those of you that are thinking of doing this job yourself and don’t have a lot of experience, the best words of advice is to be organized. Get yourself a cheap Haynes Impala manual (42048). Take pictures before you start each process of tear down to give yourself reference for re-assembly. Make sure you have all the tools needed organized. Label all of your connectors and hoses. Give yourself plenty of space for putting and cleaning parts. Buy all your fluids, pipe compound and anti-seize (for spark plugs) at the same time you get the gaskets to avoid more trips to the parts store that will slow you down.

I got the car fixed with only a couple of hitches along the way (besides having to work as well as do the car). Since feedback is a good portion of this site, I thought I would give you a quick rundown of my progress through it..

Here is a picture of the engine before the tear down.





Negative batter cable disconnected. Fuel pressure relieved (thanks tazz). Coolant drained. Remove top radiator hose, cross vehicle brace, coolant overflow tank, alternator and alternator mounting bracket.





Remove air filter and ductwork. Remove throttle and cruise control cables.






Label and remove any more connections for the wiring harness and set it aside.






Remove coil pack, plug wires, power steering pump (set it aside) and coolant bypass pipe. I was able to get mine out without having to take off either of the top motor struts.







Remove EGR from upper intake. Remove upper intake. Take care to keep all brackets held on by the intake, with the intake. Use a plastic bag.






Remove fuel lines. 9/16 SAE on back rail and No. 27 torx for front rail (remove the fuel sensor retaining clip from the fuel rail and keep it with the torx bolt). Remove valve covers (for the back you need a 5/16 SAE with a 1/4 inch drive and 2" extention to fit beside the coil pack mounting stud). Remove thermostat (not shown). This will make it easier to get the lower intake off.






Loosen the fuel rail mounting bolts (to allow room to get to lower intake bolts). Remove lower intake. Loosen bolts 1/4 turn at a time to avoid warping the intake. This picture was also very helpful in the re-assembly. You can see that the pushrods are paint coded for easy identification. Exhaust (6" long) are marked bright orange and intake (5 3/4" long) are light orange. If you do what I did (cleaned pushrods thus removing paint) this picture could be a life saver. Its also possible to identify where the intake rods go by looking into the lower intake chambers. As you can see, where the fuel is drawn in, its clean. The direction of the mark is the location where the intake rods should go.






This is a picture of where my leak was. Drivers side back water jacket. You can see how the silicone gasket is all warped and falling out of the plastic allowing coolant to exit the intake around the angled bolt. It also was deteriorating the RTV on the block seal. Coolant is still visible on the block right under where the intake would be.





This was about the time I had to go to work and I forgot to take pictures of the push rods removed. For reference, I would also also take a picture of the table where you have the disassembled parts. Then if you are missing something you can identify where it could be.

And here is the final product.





I have checked for both oil and coolant leaks and have not found any. Although my car still stinks like coolant when it gets warm. Hopefully that will eventually burn away. So there you have it. Total cost for FelPro gaskets, Gastrol Syntec 5W-30, AC Delco oil filter and Murry + thermostat was around $150 or so. Less than $200 for sure and my car is back on the road.

I hope this post and pictures might help the next novice out!

Jim

Excellent post! Thanks for sharing the photos. Regarding the smell of coolant, I was informed that due to leaky gaskets, GM installs stop leak tablets from the factory. You can buy them from parts dept. of a new car dealer at a premium price, or use the Bars Leaks brand from any parts store. They are made mostly of almond shells, look light brown in color. Follow the instructions for how many to put in the radiator depending on the displacement/ number of cylinders of your engine. Even if there is no leak or coolant loss problem, when the cooling system is flushed out, and new anti-freeze coolant is installed, those anti-leak tablets are also supposed to be replaced! This step is not widely known. As far as I know, it is not mentioned, even in the factory service manual, which I have. The anti leak tablets, when used on a new engine, and with continued use, also help to coat the cooling system aluminum components, preventing pitting of the aluminum. Aluminum doesn't rust, but it does turn black and pit when it oxidizes. This may have been GM's answer on the cheap to a problem known to them about their gaskets. It is a cheap ounce of prevention.

[breedingsteve]

surrender great step by step. pics make it even better. luv my '04 impala 3.4L. still getting 30-31 miles 2 gal. and dun nuttn but breaks. i drive 120 miles a day 4 work. one of the best cars i ever owned. including over-all maintence and cost of car. did learn though get rid of that DEX-COOL. first thing i did at 22,000 miles when i bought it. and no probs with gaskets. at least not yet
AF Newbie

[autotech234]

Intake Manifold Replacement - Lower

Removal Procedure

1. Disconnect the negative bakery.
2. Remove the upper intake manifold.
3. Remove the left valve rocker arm cover.
4. Remove the right valve rocker arm cover.
Intake Manifold Replacement - Lower


Disconnect the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor electrical connector.

Disconnect and remove the fuel injector and the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor wiring harnesses.

Remove the fuel pipe clip bolt.

Remove the fuel pipe clip.

Remove the fuel feed pipe from the fuel injector rail.

Remove the fuel return pipe from the fuel injector rail.

Remove the fuel injector rail.
Remove the power steering pump from the front engine cover and reposition.

Remove the heater inlet pipe with heater hose from the lower intake manifold and reposition.
Remove the radiator inlet hose from the engine.

Remove the thermostat bypass hose from the thermostat bypass pipe and lower intake manifold pipe.

Remove the lower intake manifold bolts.
Remove the lower intake manifold.
Remove the valve rocker arms and pushrods.

Remove the lower intake manifold gaskets and seals.
Clean the lower intake manifold gasket mating surfaces.
Remove and clean all the RTV sealant from the lower intake manifold and the engine block (1).

Remove the ECT sensor.

Remove the water outlet bolts.
Remove the water outlet.

Remove the thermostat.

Installation Procedure

Install the thermostat.
Install the water outlet. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions. See: Service Precautions

Install the water outlet bolts. Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).

Install the ECT sensor. Tighten the sensor to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.).

Apply 8 - 12 mm (0.08 - 0.11 inch) bead of RTV Sealer, GM P/N 12345739 Canadian P/N 10953541 or equivalent, on each ridge where front and rear of the lower intake manifold contact the engine block (1).
Install the lower intake manifold gaskets.
Install the valve rocker arms and pushrods.

Install the lower intake manifold.
Apply sealant, GM P/N 12345382 Canadian P/N 10953489 to the threads of the bolts. Notice: An oil leak may result if the vertical bolts are not tightened before the diagonal bolts.

Install NEW lower intake manifold bolts. Revised Updated Torque Specification, Bulletin #vss20030024 The torque specification is a 2-step process; tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (the four middle ones) to 7 Nm (62 lb in). Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (two on each end) to 7 Nm (62 lb in). Tighten the vertical lower intake manifold bolts (the four middle ones) to 13 Nm (115 lb in). Tighten the diagonal lower intake manifold bolts (two on each end) to 25 Nm (18 lb ft).

Install the thermostat bypass hose to the thermostat bypass pipe and lower intake manifold pipe.
Install the radiator inlet hose to the engine.

Install the heater inlet pipe and heater hose to the lower intake manifold.
Install the power steering pump to the front engine cover.

Install the fuel injector rail.

Install the fuel return pipe to the fuel injector rail.

Install the fuel feed pipe to the fuel injector rail

Install the fuel pipe clip.

Install the fuel pipe clip bolt. Tighten the bolt to 8 Nm (71 inch lbs.).

Install and connect the fuel injector and the MAP sensor wiring harnesses.

Connect the ECT sensor electrical connector.
Install the right valve rocker arm cover.
Install the left valve rocker arm cover.
Install the upper intake manifold.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Inspect for leaks.

[57chevyragtop]

Hello,
Having seen the original post of the photos, I must say I like the diagrams, but think the photos were quite helpful as well. I would like to see those reposted if at all possible? Also knowing that the original torque specs were revised helped me avoid the total tear down by disovering a loose diagonal bolt beside the temp sensor that was leaking......thanks for all you do for us.

[mechanicalgirl]

Ive just about had it with my 04 Impala 3.4 litre engine. I spent almost $2000 in parts several months ago started as lower intake gasket job but this kid I hired to do it messed up an didn't replace pushrods in correct order...wow..awsome he bent a rod..so had head resurfaced valves reseated EVERYTHING done new all gaskets belts o rings yes weird o rings that dealers try to sell for $40 for the fuel pressure regulator finally ordered whole OE fuel pressure regulator threw napa..TONS of work cos of the kids mistakes. never put pushrods in n a hurry!! So months later an my lovely Impala is back on chop block..this time fluid out tail pipe AND loud knocking sound from top end. its running on limp mode towed it home after looking I honestly am wondering if lower intake gaskets shot again small amount of oil there..am wondering if the kid didn't tork bolts down to the right specs?? Im so frustrated..plz can someone help me trouble shoot?? I have a new transmission sitting in my closet waiting to go in when this tranny goes out..am about to loose love for my 04Impala..Impossipala..ugh. help me plz oh I think I could do all this work for the lower intake gasket just don't have all the tools do have a new tork wrench..never been dropped lol.

[Tech II]

Are you jumping the gun?

What kind of fluid? Coolant or condensation? Is the coolant level low in the radiator or reservoir?

Sure you don't have a bad misfire?

$2000? Depending on the shop(labor rate/parts markup/guarantee), cost for job is $600-$900......let a "kid" do this kind of a job?

[mechanicalgirl]

Hey thank you for responding. the coolant level is not even reading in resovre an seems slightly low in radiator the kid just had graduated WYOTEC here in California and id a friend . Ill try to determine is it is just condensation or coolant..the knocking..could it be a rocker or another rod. Im sorry Im lost on this Impala..however I love it..I have no idea what's goin on yet. should I do compression check an also check my coolant for exaust?