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Old 08-27-2012, 10:26 AM   #1
edwinn
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Rear brake replacement (and later front)

There's one more issue to address this summer, and that is pulsation when braking through 30 MPH. Two shops that looked at it advised to do REAR brakes first. Getting a quote or two, I was knocked over at the cost of PARTS, rather the markup on parts. Also over the past 5 years, there's been rework, double rework and worse to get a number of jobs done right with the Riv. Therefore I've decided to tackle the brakes myself and save money. What are some pitfalls on REAR brakes to avoid? There's a parking brake cable to deal with, and I'd like to PAINT the calipers while at it.


What Parts to use?

Have stopped by the Delco counter and got some decent prices and parts options. They have OEM pads, Semi-metalic pads and Ceramic pads. The rear rotors will need to be replaced. I usually go for "old man" GM parts for cushy ride and quiet operation.

Delco has Rear CALIPER Assemblies that come with Ceramic pads, all new hardware and boots, and copper hydraulic washers. Really nice, complete and easy!! I've done brakes before (in teens years) and its not too difficult, but I'm skeptical of disconnecting the caliper and later bleeding the line. Mainly there can be no squeaks or noise... or vibration!!

Oh yes.. it's advised to flush and replace the brake fluid.


-Ed
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Old 08-27-2012, 12:11 PM   #2
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Re: Rear brake replacement (and later front)

I did a complete brake job on my 99 Lesabre this spring. I believe the Riviera has 4-wheel disc while mine has front disc/rear drum. Your job will be easier than mine.

Here are some hints that helped me do a good job:
1) Use ACDelco Durastop where possible. They are less expensive than ACDelco OE service, but work very well.

2) I would do fronts first, especially if you can feel the vibration in the steering wheel while braking. The front brakes take the most abuse.

3) I used Raybestos Professional Grade ceramic for the front pads on my Lesabre. At first I was disappointed, but after a few months they seem to have worn in nicely and I have very good stopping power with good pedal feel. I used ACDelco semimetallic on my wife's front brakes, but they have yet to wear in fully. This is after doing a proper bedding. ( http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bed-in-theory-definitions-and-procedures/stock-brake-system-bed-in )

4) Prepare your caliper first with pads and all necessary lube on guide pins and metal-metal contacts. I usually use a little "disc brake quiet" on the backs of the pads. I have never had brake squeal using the stuff.

5) Wash any oil off from the new rotor. ACDelco says don't use BrakeKleen or other cleaners, just use detergent and water. (I did use BrakeKleen though)

6) Make sure your master cylinder is as full as possible, then remove the wheel. Loosen the bleeder a little so that when you compress the piston to get the old caliper off you don't squeeze old brake fluid back into the lines. (Of course, you had a drip pan under your caliper first!)

7) I usually use some brake cleaner to clean around the brake hose connection as much as possible. That way I don't have to worry much about cleaning it when the line is off and dripping. Loosen the caliper bolts, remove the brake line, then remove the caliper. Make sure the old copper washer is off from the brake line. This sometimes takes a small screwdriver to pry it off.

8) Without waiting too l get the new rotor in place and secured with a lug nut, the new caliper in place, and the brake line attached to the new caliper. You don't want to take too long with this because your are dripping brake fluid and you don't want the master cylinder to empty or you will have to bleed that too.

9) Torque everything up to spec, except for the bleeder. I do use a vacuum system to pre-bleed the wheel, then find a helper to do one last pump or two. The vacuum bleed method doesn't always get all the air out.

10) I do this final check: Clean areas around the bleeder and hydraulic line, then press on the brake as if you're stopping for dear life. Then walk back and look at the lines. If you see any fluid weeping, give them another tug (1/16 of a turn or something like that). Then repeat the test. Once no more leaks can be detected, that wheel is good.

If I know I have to do all 4 brakes, I do start with the right rear, left rear, front right, front left. That way my bleeding is done is the correct order.


Here's a good article on bleeding brakes. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bleeding-brakes I tried the vacuum bleed trick and it works in a pinch, but the best way is the 2-person method.
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Old 08-27-2012, 05:07 PM   #3
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Re: Rear brake replacement (and later front)

Thanks for that!

On a 16 y/o vehicle (mfg 10/96) it might be a good idea to go with a complete rear caliper set. Delco has a Durastop #18R1211 / 1212 which is Disc Brake Caliper Assy including ceramic pads, new bolts, boots, copper washers, etc. Here are front and back views:




That way the whole assembly will be new (remanufactured) and bolt-on.


Edit: have found the correct P/N and photo for a 97 Riv, see above.


-Ed

Last edited by edwinn; 08-30-2012 at 05:07 AM.
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Old 10-30-2013, 08:33 AM   #4
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Re: Rear brake replacement (and later front)

An update to the brake job.

In Sept 2012, I bough ACDelco Front and Rear OEM pads (from DelcoLine) and Rear rotors. In May 2013, Chandler (my local shop) 'conservatively' turned the front rotors and installed pads. The braking vibration was gone.. however where driving around Los Angeles County, especially to and from the office, those pads would CLANK loudly (not a rattle.. a CLANK) over bumps and joints in the road. It was embarrassing!!

Taking it back to Chandler a couple weeks ago.. they put CarQuest pads from 3M in the front. The brakes seem nice and quiet with no vibration!! and they will stand behind the job.

The good news is.. my buddy at DelcoLine agreed to 'take back' the OEM pads that Chandler labeled as 'Defective' for a full refund toward other parts. So I bought new plug wires, fuel cap, PCV valve kit and air filter. He also agreed to take back the unused Rear pads for a full refund.

Happy Camper!!


-Ed


p.s. the rear brakes are still ok.. but rust is getting to them..
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Old 10-30-2013, 12:05 PM   #5
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Re: Rear brake replacement (and later front)

Would love to know how those pads could "clankl" in the front....have never seen that happen, thinking more installation error than part problem.....
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Old 10-31-2013, 08:32 AM   #6
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I concur.

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